Airbrush Amateur Questions

[bigbluesd]

I finally have an airbrush setup and started using it tonight. Don't know how I've done without it this far, MUCH better than hand brushing 100 parts. I have some general airbrushing questions though that I'm hoping you guys can shed some light on...

- I've been reading about decanting spray cans... I realize a can of Duplicolor will provide enough paint for several models, but how long does the paint last in a jar after you've decanted? Can it still be used in the airbrush a year later? Two years? And supposedly there is no need to thin this paint before ABing, right?

- I bought a four pack of "Artist's Loft" glass jars from Michael's the other day with the intention of storing my thinned enamels and decanted lacquers (These: http://www.michaels.com/Glass-Jars-.75-fl-oz-4pk/fa2188,default,pd.html?q=glass%20jar)... anybody know if these are safe to use for this purpose? The lid is plastic and there is a little foam pad on the bottom of the lid.

- The idea of spraying acrylics is very appealing due to the lack of fumes but I'm concerned about the durability of these paints, do they adhere good enough for handling?

- Curious to hear what your workflow is... what your setup for thinner, etc. is, what you normally do in between colors, your cleanup routine, etc. That is the most overwhelming part of the whole thing -- figuring out what I need to be doing while I have my hands full of airbrush and solvents.

- For those of you that are airbrushing your bodies using Testor's enamels (without any good hobby shops nearby this is what I'm stuck with unless I want to do mail order), how long do you wait between coats? Seems to me from ABing small parts with the enamels and lacquer thinner that they dry pretty #$*$ quickly. How many coats do you normally put on? And do you do multiple mist coats with a final wet coat (until it "flashes")? This is what I was doing with spray cans prior to the AB, is this still the best method to get a good finish?

Edited January 1, 2014 by bigbluesd

[Miatatom]

I decant enough paint to be able to finish the car and then some and leave the rest in the can. I've been using lacquers, mostly Model Master. It'll lose some solvent over time but I just open it up and give it a shot of lacquer thinner and mix it well to the thinness I want. I've had some decanted for several months and the trick above always works. I put the paint in small canning jars I got a Walmart. They have a seal and lacquer thinner doesn't seem to bother it. You can get a dozen for about $10.

I use cheap lacquer thinner when needed but most decanted sprays are thin enough. I disassemble my brush after every use.

I have a gravity feed Badger 105. When I'm waiting for stuff to dry in between coats I'll empty the cup and then I wipe it with a paper towel soaked in thinner. I also clean out the bottom of the cup with Q tips soaked in thinner. I'll add thinner to the cup and shoot it through the brush onto a clean paper towel until it sprays clear.

Edited January 1, 2014 by Miatatom

[64SS350]

I would say no on the bottles, the foam will melt away and over time the fumes from the thinner could easily work on the plastic lids.

CLEAN the airbrush, use an airbrush cleaning set of brushes to remove paint from all areas, especially the tips, seats, etc.

[ScaleDale]

I airbrush decanted lacquers and agree with not using craft store glass bottles, as the seals will dissolve from the fumes. I had a batch of paint destroyed by this and remove all seals before using the jar. I store left over paint in empty paint bottles, but the canning jar thing sounds like a better idea. Learn something new every day around here.

When I worked with water based paint I used to clean the brush over a mesh strainer to keep from loosing parts. This isn't a problem with solvent paints because you can't clean it over the sink. Don't just blow it clean, either. Remove the needle and wipe it down with thinner and a clean cloth or rubber gloves. Airbrush cleaner with a drop or two of an ammonia cleaner like Windex is a good final clean.

Dale

[Miatatom]

The seals on the canning jars seem to be impervious to lacquer thinner or lacquer paint fumes or contact. In fact, when I've emptied a jar, I clean it up with lacquer thinner and that includes a thorough cleaning of the seals. They've never become sticky or deteriorated.

[heroncustom]

can u possibly post a pic of these canning jars. if their the jars im thinking would they not be to big and awkward? but iv never found a good storing option and if these work and are small enougb problem solved!!

[Miatatom]

Here's the original tip I posted back in June. The jar with the Ferrari red paint in it still has some of that paint in it today and the seals are still good.

http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=76428&hl=jars#entry966188

[ScaleDale]

can u possibly post a pic of these canning jars. if their the jars im thinking would they not be to big and awkward? but iv never found a good storing option and if these work and are small enougb problem solved!!

They're really "jam jars", but use the same type lids as "canning jars". A bit big still for paint, but better than tossing it out.

Dale

[Miatatom]

They're really "jam jars", but use the same type lids as "canning jars". A bit big still for paint, but better than tossing it out.

Dale

They are a little large for small bottles of paint but a 3 oz. can will fill one of them about 2/3 full.