Jaguar man 21 Posted September 2, 2014 Is there an easy way I can fix this Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
1930fordpickup Posted September 2, 2014 (edited) Put it in some hot water not boiling. Then give it some tweeking. Hot tap water may work. You just want to warm up the plastic before you try to bent it. Edited September 2, 2014 by 1930fordpickup Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
angelo7 Posted September 2, 2014 Great tip Andy. The idea is to warm up the part enough so you can bend it a little and bring it back to the correct position. Then you can use some masking tape to force the part in the opposite direction for a few hours. I warm up my parts by waving them on a stove top, not too close. But the water method is safer. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
unclescott58 Posted September 2, 2014 Put it in some hot water not boiling. Then give it some tweeking. Hot tap water may work. You just want to warm up the plastic before you try to bent it. Yeh. What Andy said. Scott Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
vypurr59 Posted September 2, 2014 And tape it to a table and place a heavy object on it to cool after above methods. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
1930fordpickup Posted September 2, 2014 They added the rest of the story. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jaguar man 21 Posted September 2, 2014 Thanks guys your tips are all very helpful Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ace-Garageguy Posted September 2, 2014 And...you will most likely have to bend it back FARTHER than you want it. Plastic has a "memory" and if you only bend it straight, it may slowly creep back to the bent state as it cools. Get a pan of water big enough to hold the chassis flat, and use tongs to put it in and take it out of the water. Use some thick work gloves to hold it whole you're bending, and GO CAREFULLY. Better to have to heat it gently several times than to get it real hot and go too far. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jaguar man 21 Posted September 3, 2014 How long does it have to be in water Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
High octane Posted September 3, 2014 Just long enough to soften the plastic. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ace-Garageguy Posted September 3, 2014 (edited) How long does it have to be in water That's the tricky bit. Get a canning thermometer so you KNOW how hot your water is. T The average Tg (glass transition temperature, where it will bend permanently) of polystyrene is about 100degC (212F). PRACTICE FIRST WITH SPRUE to see how long it takes to soften enough to hold the new shape. Edited September 3, 2014 by Ace-Garageguy Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jaguar man 21 Posted September 3, 2014 Thanks again guys I'll have to try it tow marrow Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Krazy Rick Posted September 3, 2014 (edited) I'll add one bit to the hot water method, I attatch a piece of straight hardwood, or a steel ruler, with a couple small clamps, or elastics to the bottom of a warped frame, to insure it comes out square & straight - let it sit a few minutes in the water, take it out & leave it to cool - it will be perfect. Edited September 3, 2014 by Krazy Rick Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ace-Garageguy Posted September 3, 2014 (edited) While in theory Rick has a good suggestion as far as it goes, there are a couple of caveats. 1) Many steel rules just aren't stiff enough to hold a warped plastic chassis flat. You need something considerably stiffer than the chassis to do you any good. A piece of 1/8 inch steel plate ought to do it. And most chassis moldings aren't exactly flat either...they have dips and parts going up and down. You may have to make some spacers to actually hold the chassis "flat". 2) If you use clamps or elastics, be SURE they're not going to introduce more weird warpage. If they're clamped or wrapped around a part of chassis that isn't supported, you just might end up with a worse mess. THINK. The WORST possible thing is exactly what will usually happen if you don't try to foresee all the possible disasters. Edited September 3, 2014 by Ace-Garageguy Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
10thumbs Posted September 6, 2014 Good info here. I'm building a 32 Ford that has a warped chassis and I'll try these methods too. Michael Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Krazy Rick Posted September 6, 2014 (edited) While in theory Rick has a good suggestion as far as it goes, there are a couple of caveats. 1) Many steel rules just aren't stiff enough to hold a warped plastic chassis flat. You need something considerably stiffer than the chassis to do you any good. A piece of 1/8 inch steel plate ought to do it. And most chassis moldings aren't exactly flat either...they have dips and parts going up and down. You may have to make some spacers to actually hold the chassis "flat". 2) If you use clamps or elastics, be SURE they're not going to introduce more weird warpage. If they're clamped or wrapped around a part of chassis that isn't supported Edited September 6, 2014 by Krazy Rick Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
southpier Posted September 6, 2014 take the kit back and return it for another. write a review and bash the manufacturer for selling you a bogus made in another country kit. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Krazy Rick Posted September 6, 2014 my computer is really screwed up ....... it won't do "the quote thing" properly Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites