Ognib

Another template...this one reads the feature lines, which are the high points on this part of the body. Using a file that cuts on the edges, I'm defining the outer edge of the feature line. This is the top of the outer quarter panel. As I round off the edges to shape down to the panel side, I'll be working to this cut I'm now making.

That's looking real good!

Added some definition to the lower quarter panel, before work, this morning.

The tip of this set of templates ends at the edge of the side body feature line...dark mark.. It was essential that I establish a hard line for this point when beginning the material removal at the lower deck lid. Leaving it a bit high, until I get the rest of the way up roughed in & then bring it all in together.

Thanks, guys. David, thought I'd see if I can do a wooden one first. Got this done after work, this afternoon.

Is this jake's limefire roadster?

This is looking good, Scott.

Very cool vid, enjoy. https://grrc.goodwood.com/road/news/video-build-ferrari-gto-replica-shed-scratch

My feature line areas are now 1/16" high. Can now start fitting the templates to the lower body panel & further up, the lower deck lid. This work will begin the shaping of the rear quarter panels & also help me to establish the crowns across the top of it all.

Ya, good tools don't cost you, they pay you. It's part of how I earn my living.

Thanks. Yes, stewmac. Very well made item. Bought it originally for cutting cavities on a guitar headstock for pearl inlay & saddle slots on acoustic bridges. Has proven to be very handy on a regular basis. The wooden sled extends out far enough to keep it riding on the "high" wood on either side of the area being worked.

Dremel in a mini-router base, with a small router bit, allows me to take just a shave or so off at a time, followed by working across the downward radius with an 80 grit sanding stick, to keep it all tied smoothly together. This is moving things along quickly while allowing me to easily maintain a constant depth of the panels in relationship to the height of the feature lines on either side.

David, thanks for the link, much good information there. As this is my first model since doing box models as a kid, I'm always looking for the better way to do things.

That's a real good look for that car...the way you're doing the hood. Kudos!

Thanks, Bob, I'm having fun here. Working in line with centerline, with a real sharp 1/4" chisel & a 1/4" gouge. I'm using a coarse rifler file across the panel to establish continuity of radius from side to side.

The rim around the back of the cockpit is 1/8", with the outer feature line being about half that. Little at a time. Pulled a template off the upper body for crown radius. Get it established here, early on.

This is my current puter wallpaper to keep me inspired.

Going to begin on the body buck by taking the area inside the feature lines on either side of the deck lid down 1/16", across the deck lid on to the lower body panel. I've already cut a line for the deck lid perimeter. I'll continue to keep this line intact as I work, preserving the layout work previously done. Chisels & a round gouge will allow me to establish a definitive edge along the feature lines. I use pencil to provide a guide coat so I can see where I'm working. My collection of rifler files & rasps.

excellent

My inspiration for scratch built body panels. About 1/4 of the way down the page are some excellent shots of his body buck & his brass panel work. Also some good shots of his body build jig. http://blog.hemmings.com/index.php/2013/11/06/continental-mark-112-roger-zimmermans-amazing-scratchbuilding-skills/

Your aluminum work looks fantastic!

Cut a template to fit the rear of the cockpit & transferred it to the buck, using the centerline template for location.

Ok, got it figured out. This is my hard maple block for development as a hammer form, in shaping body skins. The centerline template was shaped previously from the kit body.

Hey stump, your work's looking good.