Ognib

I have current pics from the last couple of days. They are in my photobucket acct. I've up graded my computer with a solid state hard drive & different operating system. Still learning how to work with it...no success yet in trying to load pics in a post here. Soon.

Had a couple of major disasters that affected my finances. Had to un-retire myself & re-establish a cash flow. Took every bit of time & energy I could muster. But, after a year, I went into the shop this morning & started digging through all my stuff...see what I have on hand to work with. I've lost my mental continuity on this project, so it'll take some time to get back in the groove. Probably the most straight forward place to start will be to build the right side header for the engine.

I like seeing the build process as well as the finished work.

I've been following his lincoln build for about a year now. He's my main inspiration for my deuce build.

Very nice!

Thought I'd drop in & say howdy to everyone who's been following the thread. Life gets in the way sometimes. Haven't touched the project in several weeks. Keep a couple of parts out so I see them daily. Back on it soon. best to all

Bach's partitas for keyboard are some of my favorite work sounds.

Indeed. Always impressed with the realism you get in your work, Ken.

Very nice!

Jim, two great minds thinking alike. lol Scott, everyone has their own methods. I've been enjoying your reporting on your current project.

Brass, yes, should'a seen that...I've got aluminum on the brain. Chassis work looks great!

Primer looks good on front clip. Takes it to another level when it starts being all one color.

Welcome back, stranger. Radiator looks excellent!

Thanks, Scott. My favorite threads are where there are a lot of shots illustrating how a part is made...machined aluminum engines, for example...beautiful to see...more exciiting when they show how it's jigged up, in process, for different cuts etc. So my inclination is to show all of the down & dirty steps I have to go through to develope a part. It actually helps my thought process to write about it & be able to see it out in front of me, if that makes any sense.

I misunderstood your question, sorry.

Blocks are being added along with a new tie rod arm. Upper arm will be eliminated. Dimensions are 3/16 total drop = 1 1/2" lower at 1:1 This will allow this much more available travel for the arm. Now we can achieve a believable right turn position with the spindle/tire.

Cutting more parts. Due to the interferance between the tie rod arm and the axle, as shown above, I'm modifying the part to lower the tie rod arm in relation to the inward slant of the axle as it drops...giving more room for the arm to rotate. Small hose is attached to an aquarium aerator to keep saw residue blown away...from obscuring my cut line.

I really like your anodized finishes! Is the gold a spray on like the red that you told me about?

Thanks, Scott. Mike, my solution is to find a source for one of these 2 grades of aluminum in sheet, in small quantities. So far, locally, no one seems to have it. I'm going to need it for shaping the body panels on the model & it'll be good for bending small parts like the spindle bosses, as well. 1100 This grade is commercially pure aluminum. It is soft and ductile and has excellent workability. It is ideal for applications involving intricate forming because it work hardens more slowly than other alloys. It is the most weldable of aluminum alloys, by any method. It is non heat-treatable. It has excellent resistance to corrosion and is widely used in the chemical and food processing industries. It responds well to decorative finishes which make it suitable for giftware. or 3003 This is the most widely used of all aluminum alloys. It is essentially commercially pure aluminum with the addition of manganese which increases the strength some 20% over the 1100 grade. Thus, it has all the excellent characteristics of 1100 with higher strength. It has excellent corrosion resistance. It has excellent workability and it may be deep drawn or spun, welded or brazed. It is non heat treatable. Applications: cooking utensils, decorative trim, awnings, siding, storage tanks, chemical equipment. Thanks, Bill. How've you been? Ya, I put a lot of thought/visualization time in on stuff like this. Develop a clear, sharp picture in my mind of the process first. Hey Jim, don't mind you asking at all. I'm using centering punches & drill bits for hanging the spindles at this point. I've got music wire in the same size that I'll cut for the actual king pins, at final assembly.

First fit. Getting there. There is contact between the tie rod arm & axle. This shows how much I still need to trim it down to match the plastic piece.

What product are you using for your glaze? Looking good.

Thanks, Ray, glad you're enjoying. Pinned both sides back to back, along with the arm template, clamped in the vise & roughing in the shape with a coarse rat tail file. By working multiple parts at one time, it simplifies my ability to have visually matching pieces from side to side.

Roughed it in on the bandsaw.

Thanks, guys. I bought the jewlers saw previously for cutting pearl to do inlay work on the guitars. After I drilled the king pin holes, I slipped the tie rod arm template over the king pin, located it, drilled & pinned & traced it's outline. Just have to whittle it all out.

250 stroke per minute, hand powered jewlers saw. 30 min & one broken saw blade later. true up the lines a bit with a file & good to go.