Ognib

Mike, that's a beautifully done model. Much respect for your skills!

I guess I'm not much of a traditionalist. I never have figured out what's the rub with radial tires. Granted, they don't look like bias plys. Maby it's the engineer in me...radials are a definate superior design for performance & handeling & that's what engineering is all about...better design, better function...form follows function. Yet, here I am, using a flathead engine in my project, which is an 80 yr old design...maby I'm conflicted in some way...

In general this looks ok to me. However the nuts both seem to be visually, proportionally too large in the outside diameter. The 1/8 tubing scales to 1"...the jam nut measures .217" x 8 = 1.72...that's basically a 1 3/4" nut at scale...humm

Ya, but you don't have to feed it, so it'll wait patiently for you at your insipration & convenience

Nice. That should save you a few hours of prepping the other body for the purpose at hand.

Thanks, Greg. 1/8" tubing scales to 1" for 4bar links. 3/32" cotter pin fits snugly inside tube. 3mm nut for jam nut. Short piece of 1/8 tube around a 2.5mm bolt & nut for the cross bolt.

Tried this on my 1:8 deuce build & happy with the way it looks. couple of o-rings of appropriate outside diameter with a washer sandwiched between to simulate the metal core..

I couldn't say. There's some discussion on the HAMB about whether it's over-restored or not. Some feel rather strongly that Miller had such a thing for detail that his cars did race with that level of detail & finish. All the chrome & polish aside, I'm in awe of the beauty of the design & precision of the machine work.

Speaking of vintage race cars... More pics here... http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?s=13d7c5f9dc8cd6edd4d96df4d9377a86&t=816884&highlight=miller

Thanks, Bill. Assembly fixture for installing vertical uprights in the K members. It occured to me that a cotter pin would be a logical place to start on fabbing ball joint rod ends.

Rubber motor mounts with integrated steel strength ring.

Thanks, Greg, I appreciate that.

Fantastic looking u-joint.

Finally got the alternator on the engine. This is my third go at the mounting fixture. First one I worked in too thin of material & it looked unrealistic when held on the engine. Second one just got in a hurry & it had a totally unbalanced look about it. Think this one will work ok.

Thanks for the comments, David. I agree...been bugging me since I bent them, just haven't purchased the proper sized wire yet. Been missing seeing your work...how've you been?

Great work! Where are you sourcing those very nice brake line fittings?

Tubes across the center are temporary spacers until I get everything fitted together.

Very nice work, Bill! Been looking forward to seeing the big pics here, after seeing them on your phone couple of weeks back.

Thanks, Scott.

Thanks, Bill. I neglected to install the frame tabs for motor mounts before spraying the base coat of black on the frame. They'll get blacked out when I do the final topcoat. Motor mounts & frame tabs have been drilled & aligned with pins...later to be replaced with mineature bolts. Trans tailshaft is still right on the centerline. Bending jig for the tubular K members.

Happy saturday to all. A mock-up to see how it's all fitting. If I go with the original triangulated radius rods, I'll design the front driveshaft hoop as a structural unit & attach them there. May go 4 bar...don't know yet.

Thanks everyone! Guess I'll be heading to hobby lobby for som faux-fabric paint & give it a try...I like foolproof methods.

Since deciding to use the 4 spd, the stock crossmember will be replaced with a tube style. Squared up the frame & stuck it to poster paper...laid out & verified a centerline. Fitting the tube pieces to the frame while working off the centerline for a visually balanced result.

Built an aluminum distributor & fitted it to the front cover.

The casting texture can be seen on the back of the engine while the bellhousing is smooth. Any tips for adding a realistic casting texture to the bellhousing so it will visually match the engine?