Ognib

I drilled through the lower water pump outlets & then with the appropriate sized drill bits, reached through & marked the front of the engine block for later reference. Cut through the simulated motor mount cushions & separated the water pumps from the engine front cover with the jewlers saw.

More front of engine & motor mount detail. Research, research, research. This first picture really clarifies several things for me, in that the motor mount tab is cast into the water pump housing. The front cover/water pumps for the engine in the kit are cast as one piece & I'm going to separate it into individual components for better detail, but until I saw this pic, I was not clear as to how everything's suppose to look. Now I can proceed on that.

Thanks, Curt, I'm going to try that on the heads & intake today.

I've got a set o bifocalf bench eyeglasses, from my eye doc, that pulls stuff in a bit, and a set of clip on, flip up/flip down 2x magnification lenses as well for fine detail work.

Good point. Hadn't thought of that.

I was just thinking about this earlier today. Anyone tried hot glue? The times I've used it in non-modeling situations, it seems to have a non-permanent quality about it, in that dabs of it can be "rolled" off a painted wall & leave no residue.

Was on this site this morning. http://www.scalehardware.com/

Beige & red 32 roadster. The red on this on is not as dark & has considerably more orange than the burgandy I've chosen, but striking, none the less.

I sprayed the side of the rattle can cap as a test run on the aluminum spray & it looks better than I hoped it would. Actually it looks pretty darn good. It looks more authentic in person than it does in the pics. Buffed the top half down a bit from the sprayed out gloss with a Mr. Clean magic erasure pad that my wife uses on her porcelean & enameled appliances. It's just a very fine foam pad. At a different angle.

Yep, & what a positively bad-assed sounding engine when they did the start-up on it. Such beautiful music almost brought tears to my eyes.

Went & got a few rattle cans this morning. Use it on the plastic kit, as the nitro is too expensive when buying tints for making my colors & will be saved for the scratch build. I like this satin black for the driveline components better than the gloss. Satin finish for the car. Ivory/beige on the body & burgandy for wheels & some other pieces. Aluminum to tone down the chrome heads & intake manifold to a more realistic look. Guardedly optomistic that a spray aluminum will give me what I want here.

It's mentally refreshing to be doing stuff to the engine, at this time. Needed a diversion from the hum-drum of fitting templates to body parts. I like the big scale stuff, it's easier to see & produce the detail in the work. Cause,...it either looks just like the real thing...or it doesn't look just like the real thing.

Nice work! Really like how the seats turned out. I painted for a Ferrari dealer back early 90's. We got one in stock for a short time before it sold. It was a big deal when it arrived. The dealership hosted an exclusive, catered champagne sunday brunch for the employees, where we could examine the car in detail & at our leisure. Very impressive machine!

I found this to use as a guide in doing the front of the engine...very good detail. I much prefer the look of the angle drive ignitions over the "crab" distributor that sets down on the front of the engine. So, I mocked up the front, using a toothpick to simulate the location of the water pump belt & scarfed the magneto off of the pontiac engine in the red kit to see if I can make it fit. I think by adding a shaft out of brass tubing to extend it down behind the belt, to the center of the front cover, I can work it all in. Plus, I can shim the pump pulleys out with a washer .030" or so for a bit more clearance, if needed. Due to the location of the front carburetor, the generator has to set off to the side & will have a conflict of space in getting the belt down to the water pump. I'll move it to the other side of the engine, or could fab the front cover magneto housing to place the ignition on the other side...decisions, decisions...

Using my jewlers saw with a .015" blade, I cut along the molded seam of the oil pan & bottom of block. Motor needs an oil pan gasket to look right. Still looking for the right stuff to realistically model the different types of gasket materials used on these motors. Now looking for good visual referances of where the freeze plugs & other such items are located so they may be added as well. My cuts were accurate enough that the entire shape of the pan flange is retained.

Some card stock for gasket material under the top plate. Get some bolt heads on it & for a bit more detail.

Holding a bit too much gloss for my taste. The stuff I used on my 1:1's was a semi gloss type material that laid down hard & slick looking, but without the shine & just gave everything the "right" look. I've got a satin sheen clear coat I use on some of my maple necks, going to try that over the black today...or I may just buff em down a bit with an ultra fine scotch brite. No, I didn't strip them, just a good rubdown with a med scotchbrite. Thanks for the heads up, I'll do a test on some unplated material.

I'm considering my approach on the flathead engine out of my 1:8 deuce kit. The engine will be blacked out & I'll use brass sheet for head gaskets, but curious what you guys are using for realistic looking gasket material on front covers, water pumps, intakes & oil pans?

I have instrument grade nitrocelulose lacquer that I use on the guitars. Wanted to see how it will work on the plastic pieces, as I do the kit as a dress rehearsal along-side the sctatch job. As it's an aggressive solvent based paint, I thought perhaps it might attack the plastics, but did not, so all is well. I like the nitro, as it's a very good viscosity for spraying & really lays down flat, leaving the detail of the piece in good shape. My test piece is the chrome transmission case from the kit. I'm doing this project as if I were doing a 1:1 for myself. A chrome transmission for a driver car? I mean, really now... I used black on all these parts in my 1:1 stuff, through the years, for thermodynamic reasons...It pulls heat out of motors, transmissions etc. Then I used cad plated bolts & hardware to add a bit of sparkle for a very nice, "business like" look to my builds. Black is a difficult color to photograph & have any detail show up well, but here it is.

After yesterday, I have a second deuce kit to work with...the yellow kit. Virgin, factory tape still on the box. I bought it because it has a flathead in it, for less cost than the flathead resin engine kits alone are selling for & I needed reference material. Last evening, I pulled the engine parts & as I was examining them, it occured to me that I should build this kit alongside my scratch work. The kit will go together more quickly than the scratch build...I can practice & refine all of my detailing skills on it...I can build all of my metal accessory pieces to fit it...headlight bars, engine headers, door handles, brake lights, etc, etc, This way, as the aluminum frame & body pieces are finished, there will be all the other trim items needed for completion of the build. Still have the red kit as well. This will allow me to still have all the individual components in backup if needed for any reason. Happy monday & best to all!

Saw this car in person today as well as the dragster.

Check out this guy's progress on his Mk II body buck. http://www.scalemotorcars.com/forum/large-scale-cars/36929-continental-mark-ii-41.html

Went to the Heartland Nationals today. Had a great time. Good people, great displays, fantastic work in several instances. This is a very dynamic club with obviously great leadership & an involved membership, to successfully produce an event like this. I'm realy glad to be with them, as I've been warmly welcomed & have already benefited from their collective experiences as I'm laying out the logistics & beginning work on my project. Came home with some 1:8 flathead parts to work off of. Saw a set of wires that looked like the ones pictured above, only in full metal...rims, hubs & spokes. The guy said they were built by a guy named Chris Garcia. I was lusting over them big time, but they were not for sale. Good thing, Don't think I could have afforded them...saved me a bit o heartbreak there.

I was there. Good time. Great displays. Came home with some 1:8 flathead pieces to work off of.

Watched this vid, from the GSL library link posted earlier, on shaping body panels in brass. Camera work could have been better in that it was somewhat difficult to see exactly what was being done at times, but still informative. He was forming a deck lid for a 49 ford & was working free hand, without bucks. Someone asked if he felt it would be easier to shape with bucks & said he felt it would be. This was encouraging for me, considering the number of hours that I'm investing in the development of the bucks for my project. http://archive.org/details/fashioningPanelsFromBrassByGeorgeLayton Some nice metal work here.