Ognib

Also added a 4spd to the mix & still in process of adapting the bellhousing to fit it.

Added a dipstick to the engine.

Check this out!

Exactly.

When I painted 1:1 in the Ferrari shop, we had red mix formulas for our primers & sealers that had to be used under the Ferrari red top coat, in order to achieve a correct final tint in the paint. I just sprayed a burgundy/maroon on the steelies for my 1:8 deuce project & found that it didn't want to cover the yellow plastic in the kit, especially on the edges & rounded areas. Ended up stripping & putting a black base down first & they came out dark & rich looking with just a couple of light coats of color. Back in the 80's I did a 1:1 69 camaro for myself that had a 3 shade red on the horizontal surfaces over artic white sides. The effect was achieved by sprayint the red top coat over black, copper & white, blended base coats. The color shading differences when finished was a dark blackish maroon at the back of the car, blending through goldish, copper reds going up the sail panels to the front of the top & ended with a cotton candy pink on the header panel, where it was sprayed over the white.

A new friend I've made through the slammers club, saw my post on the magneto a couple of pages back & sent me these. Thank you! The alternator is a 3 piece item, making it easier to detail & short enough to mount on the top of the engine in front of the 3 carb setup.

Major mojo happenin' here.

I buffed the aluminum parts on the top of the engine with the ultra fine foam pad, to get rid of the "shine". Used a nylon bristle, detail brush to scrub down the fins on the face of the heads. This looks better to me. Also need to further refine the way the header tubes flow against the side of the block.

Equal length primaries.

Solid core, silver bearing solder...holds it's shape well, yet bendable...has a nice metal look to it. It"s 1/8" & that scales up to a 1:1 primary tube of only 1". I've also got some aluminum tubing that's 3/16, 1:8 of a 1 1/2" tube. On a 1:1 motor, I'd probably go with the 1 1/2 size, but here, to my eye, I think by the time I got it all fitted into place, it would be too overpowering. Kinda like the magneto, when I mocked it up on the front of the engine a while back. Going to get the frame painted & assembled through this coming weekend & get the steering box in place so make sure everything fits nicely.

Paper template for header base plate.

Thu look.

Flat head dipsticks.

Exhaust header theory & design. http://www.sandersonheaders.com/Lets-Get-Technical.html

That's better, but it still has that plastic engine that's been painted, look. Humm...

Happy fathers day to all the dads. Cut a few gaskets this evening.

Nice work, Dave. Always look forward to your updates. As a newb in the hobby, you're one of my heros! What grit paper are you using for your body prep, at this point?

Steel shafts coming for the water pumps, crank pulley & generator. Just need a few more proper sized drill bits.

Motor looks better even now, without all that gawdy chrome smeared all over the top. The magneto, even though it's cast to scale, is too visually large & overpowering for this motor. Going with something smaller with a tower cap on it. Rear fenders are going to have to be bobbed a bit behind the tire, which really fills out the opening nicely.

Ya the cork's way too much on the transmission top plate. I've got some manilla folder that I'm going to try on it.

I'm enjoying it, Bill. Ya, good, thorough paint prep is in my DNA. Cork sheet. At .040, a little thick for most of the gaskets on this motor, but perfect, I'm hoping, for the oil pan gasket. But, maby not. Wait till I get some color on things & see what looks best then. I want good, easily visable definiion where these parts join deep down in the chassis, while maintaining a reasistic feel in the piece. I remember cork gaskets out of my past. Bought a couple types of tacky glue also today. Read a thread in Q & A about mock up adhesives. I want to build this motor well enough that It will stay together for handling & display, but want to be able to disasemble it for measurments without too much trouble, when I start cutting the engine parts for the scratch built.

Thanks, Richard. I had a thought...I've been "prepping" my parts for paint with a medium scotchbrite pad & noticed how it's difficult to get the glaze broken in some of the small tight corners for good adhesion. I did some reading on soda blasting...baking soda has an abrasive quality about it...going to try pouring some soda in a tray & using a variety of sizes & shapes of stiffish bristle brushes to scrub the soda into the corners... I used the bleach method, as suggested by Curt, to strip the chrome off of the heads & intake & it worked beautifully. The parts came out of the bleach with a very slick shiny finish, so now I've been wondering how to get down in between the fins on the heads for good paint prep & am going to try the soda & brush method to see how it works.

If you'll notice in the first pic in post 121, the water pump has an outside bolt. The kit waterpump has no bolt boss cast in this location, so I'll be adding a tab here to accomodate that bolt. Big-n-littles, a hot rod staple, in 2 configs, Goodyear & Firestone. Once again, this model project is to represent how I would do a 1:1 for myself. It would be fitted with radial tires for the handling characteristics & eventually the scratch build will carry radial tires. But these are plenty good on this one, for now. Interestingly enough, the steel wheels in the kit are the same rim widths as the chrome alloys, so the big rear Goodyears look right at home on them. Steelies it is, until I get some wires for it. Going to get them painted this weekend & see how I like the burgundy on actual parts.