Richard Bartrop

Something else to consider is that we all don't need one of these things for it to make an impact. Not everyone owns a photocopier, yet there are plenty of local businesses where you can feed change into a machine and run off a fun copies. Imagine a future where a 3D printer is an essential part of your LHS. You either supply them with a file, or select something from their catalogue.

I don't think you're giving yourself, or your fellow modelers enough credit. Sure, making models with 3D software takes some skill, but so does putting together a decent model, and skills can be learned. You don't need AutoCAD either. Most 3D graphics programs have some option for making 3D printer files. There is even a free modelling program called Blender, and while it does take a while to master, there is a whole community of users out there to help you out. Remember all those computer games that supposedly took all the youngsters away from modelling? There are whole communities out there devoted to modifying those games, and creating new models for them. It's not too much of a stretch to think some of them might want a tangible version of thier creations. 3D printing might just be the thing for bringing back a new generation back to the hobby.

My opinion is that when you're actually building the car, put whatever you want in it. Any idiot can tell other people what to do.

Usually I think long and hard when the price goes past $40, but the most I ever pair was $150 for an Entex 1908 Rolls Royce. Of course, two weeks later I saw a Bandai reissue in the store reduced to clear at $50.

Just a few highlights, or we could be here all night Complete kits: Cord L-29 A proper retool of the Auburn 851 speedster Edsel Ford's 1934 speedster Phantom Corsair (this could possibly be done as a transkit of Monogram's Cord) Bugatti Type 57 Atlantic Coupe Miller 91 Miller-Ford Indy car Figoni & Falaschi Talbot Lago coupe Dymaxion Stout Scarab Transkits: Any Figoni & Falaschi body for Heller's Dalage and Delahaye kits For Monogram's Duesenberg SJ: Weyman Boattail Speedster The "Twenty Grand" sedan SSJ Roadster For Monogram's Bugatti Type 35: Correct wheels and radiator for an original Type 35 Engine and body to make a Type 51 For Monogram's Lincoln Continental: '37-'48 Lincoln Zephyr '42-'48 Lincoln Continental For Monogram's 1930 Packard: 1931 Packard 840 Deluxe Eight Convertible Sedan by Dietrich. This one right here For Lindberg's Mercedes SSK: Trossi Roadster body and a nice set of photo-etch wire wheels Photo-etch wire wheels, and a set of cycle fenders Heck, just a decent set of wire wheels would help a lot.

The later Jo-han re-issues were pretty rough. I have a Cadillac Town Brougham on my to build pile, and you cah see bumps where they ground something off the mould, and didn't bother to fill it in. The badge on the stone guard has also be smoothed off. Thankfully the early issues can still be had fairly cheaply.

I've been building models off and on since the 1960's. I generally like to build classic cars and vintage hot rods, with a smattering of planes and sci-fi, though lately, I've taken an interest in WWI and earlier armour.

I have to agree, though there are a few exceptions. THe Jo-Han classics have some very nice wire wheels, as does the Heller Bentley. In fact Jo-han's Mercedes 500k and and Cadillac V-16 kits would be at the top of my list of recommendations. The custom crowd seems to have taken to the wheels from the 500K, so snag these kits while you can. The Heller Bentley requires patience, as there are a lot of really delicate bits, but your efforts will be rewarded by a really nice model. Here's a shot of my build of it. I replaced the headlight and carb screens with brass mesh, and added some wiring, but otherwise build pretty much out of the box. Lots of good things have already been said about the Monogram classic kits, and I agree with all that's been said so far. The wire wheels are a little thick, but that is a common issue at this scale. The Bugatti Type 35 is a very nice execution of a car that's been upgraded with later model wheels, and possibly the radiator as well. It's a very accurate model of a Type 35 from 1966, but if you want it to look like it came from the factory, you have some work ahead. If anything the exterior is closer to a Type 51, but those had a twin cam engine. The MPC '27 Lincoln and '32 Chrysler can be a journey into madness. Lots of tiny parts that don't all quite fit together, especially on some of the reissues. However, if you're patient, and are prepared for a lot of test fitting, they do make very nice replicas. Here's a WIP of the Lincoln chassis: Like a lot of kits, it has the big fat chrome spokes, but a coat of dark paint will make that less noticable if you don't want to do a lot of scraping and filing. If there's any kits that I'd recommend avoiding, it would be the Pyro/Lindberg Aubrun, Cord, and Lincoln Continental kits. They are 50's vintage kits that have been thoroughly abused over the years, so be prepared for some serious scratchbuilding. The Auburn is still the only kit of the boattail speedster, and some nice customs have been made from it, but the Monogram Cord and Lincoln Continental are just so much nicer. The Lindberg Continental does depict the postwar facelift, while the Monogram kit depicts the prewar model, which a lot of people think is the nicer of the two, but if you just have to have a late model Continental, I'd almost think you'd be better off trying to modify the Monogram kit. However, some of the 1/32 Pyro classics are pretty nice, especially the brass era kits.