LaughingIndian

Now that the backend is shortened, I want to lower the car. But first I have to decide on the wheels since I'm not crazy about the stock chomed "wire Wheels." The tires and spinners are great — but the wheels are straight spoke poor reproductions of vintage wire wheels. But I figured I could improve on them by de-chroming and painting, say red: But I originally had ideas to go with a wilder modification and got some giant 1/10 wheels to fool around with. Here're some ideas I've got set on temp axles (it'll alos help me figure out the chasis height): Inspired by the Volvo rod above As inspired by the rat rod above but with the now painted stocks in front With the stocks on all corners inspired by the Stutz. As much as I try to loosen up I can't get away from "old school" style. Although I don't have my mind made on which wheels, I do have the ride height i'm looking for ...

Here's the shortened interior with a simple back end: This completes the hacked back ...

Here's more on this guy: http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/dare-to-be-different-hot-rod-excalibur.492226/ I like his style but the backend is still there and the fake exhaust. But the wrap really looks great.

The first thing was to take a foot off the back end (1/12 is great since that would be an easy inch-wide masking tape). This shows the chopped, plugged and sanded back section with the frame (still with tape on it) about to be cut too: Here's a closeup with the instructions showing the difference: And here it is with the primed pieces with the shortened leaf springs:

Hey folks, Here's an attempt at customizing. I enjoyed building an 1/12 MPC Bentley so much I needed another fix and could only find this Excalibur as something in a 'similar' genre — but it ain't. The real car is a repro of a Mercedes SSK that looked like this: The original concept was to look like this: The resulting car (and model) ended up like this: A Jeepster with a 1963(?) corvette engine So I thought it'd be a perfect car to alter and make a few improvements, in my little mind anyway. And found these: A Volvo A rat rod Excalibur from Europe (this is REALLY cool): And a a beautiful Stutz from the same era as the original SSK: So the inspirations are complete ...

Black (maybe too SS), white, grey with red interior or brown leather. To match your other classics though, you'll probably go two-tone. Maybe time for red and black? Wheels in back. Love your work Harry, thank you ...

http://m.ebay.com/itm/320724467378?cmd=VIDESC If anyone's interested

Dustin Hoffman was told over 4 decades ago that the future is "plastics." Today, we modelers know it is "3d printing." Imagine a 1/12 GT40 on a $7 DVR. Fear not ... except for the initial (future) cost of a hi res printer

You're absolutely correct. To be scared away because of cost is understandable, but to not live and learn from a build like this is a crime against the hobby of modelling. It's like art without the audience ... That said, thank you Cato and MCM for the show!

Thanks. The funniest thing is the only "real" photo is an old hand-tinted print with wrong colors and overlaps ...

And I got this for me ... my dad would be proud

I bought this for my daughter ...

Here's a pic of a '48 indian Chief like the one my pop rode for the Mass. State Police

By the way there's a resin curbside(?) from the UK going on EBay right now for $200 and climbing of a 2900 ... http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/380958598998 1/12!!

That Mille Miglia done like the popular 1/12 Bentley Blower (with nicer tires) would be a hit ... in affordable plastic

What can be harder to scratch build other than a mid-century car body?

If there's a crowd, I go the other way. But I'd stand in line to drop a couple bills on a 1/12 version of Schmidt's 1969 Blue Max Mustang funny car and/or David Pearson's Wood Bros' 1971 Mercury Cyclone and/or 1928 Springfield Phantom I and/or 30s Packard or Duesenberg and/or 1942 Lincoln ... etc ... all with full chassis of course.

I haven't seen a build this impressive. Might I ask what tape did you use for the exhaust wraps? A paper tape would unadhere after paint ... But that's if I did it .

In the 60s we had contemporary cars as national dragster champions and racing at Daytona with nothing but contemporary two-doors. We were sending rockets to the moon. And as young guys we could realistically dream of one day owning or piloting these machines. We shared that with our fathers and friends and a lot of us built models of them to get a little closer to the real thing. Our modern view of those subjects we modelled has changed. I think that's the big difference ...

Congratulations Joe! A beautiful job on a real ugly* vehicle ... but I can't take my eyes off it. Absolutely STUNNING! * in an attractive way :-)

I just started again after a several decade hiatus myself and I also was motivated by my daughter so I can relate. I think there's a lot of ways to skin a cat as far as weathering goes. I happened on testors model masters acrylic flat engine black diluted in their solvent. The combination of the two products has a slight tack to it so that after the first coat beads off the second coat can bite. I found it to be great over plated chrome and gives it a true metallic look, brings out the detail, and a controllable amount of weathering. It also works well on allclad and other lacquers without harming the paint. My formula anyway ...

And? Any progress on the build you two?

Great job Harry. Taking a "simple" kit like this and adding the detail and textures as you did exemplifies the difference between the larger scales and the 1/25s or such. I disagree with a prior poster with the idea of abolishing this "big boys" thread. But if you ever do spark plug cables like these on a 1/25th "simple" kit, please use UPPER case on your title. I wouldn't want to miss it.

Sorry folks, I gave wrong advice. In my first post here, I mentioned that Krylon Fusion as being a good primary coat and that's false. I started a 1/16 Jag ss100 last week and i found that the gloss black Fusion primary screwed up any other coat, laquer or enamel. It seems the solvent mix is specific to that paint. And that's after I let it gas out over a couple of days. Anyways, as an amateur, I'll remember to hold my two cent advice in the future. Sorry.

Another reason to use the liquid and super glue (I use zap) is the setting time is seconds as opposed to overnight -- especially the super glue. Something important to think about with the younger ones and their patience. Don't forget about avoiding contacting the skin. And paint as the last thing before bedtime or on your own. I hope you and your daughter have a blast!