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Straightliner59

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Posts posted by Straightliner59

  1. On 4/26/2024 at 5:16 AM, ColonelKrypton said:

    A very interesting build.  I am going to have to give a try to using some gold leaf.  Gold leaf is traditional ( i.e. real gold ) but now you can find imitation leaf in a variety of colours sold for finger nail art. Hmmmm ... starting to envision some interesting possibilities.

    cheers, Graham

    It's interesting that you would mention this, Graham. I had ordered a package of red to blue variegations. It arrived, yesterday. I couldn't wait to try it out on some of the previously-printed decals I had. I might be creating new graphics, again--I really like the colors, in this! I also tested the white script lettering on a bit of aluminum. I can't wait to see that over paint, too! You can see where it's out of register. That's why I used it for testing.😃

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  2. 17 hours ago, Scott8950 said:

    Where did you get the aluminum? 

    Very neat build I'll be following along .

    I use 5"x7" sheets of aluminum flashing. They're about .005" thick. I love the stuff! I have two dragsters that I built bodies for, using it. For compound curves, it needs to be sanded to remove the plastic coating, because of the flame required to anneal the sheet.   I don't bother with that, for flat panels, or simple curves. I don't think there's anything I have built in the last ten years that doesn't have some! I also like to use Maid-O-Metal tooling aluminum (available at Hobby Lobby or Michael's), in instances where a simple overlay will work. It's much softer, and more malleable, but leaves something to be desired, structurally!🙂 I discovered that, after I built the bodies for the aforementioned dragsters from tooling aluminum, first. If you're interested in working with it, let me know--I've probably picked up a few tips, over the years. Thanks, Scott!

     

    5 hours ago, Ian McLaren said:

    I'm liking where you are going with this model, as usual the work is top notch.  I know all too well the mood shift after an intense long term project but I can assure you it disipates fairly quickly.  Glad to see you working on the though, it's a good sign.

    Thank you, my friend. This was supposed to be quick and easy! Things never seem to work out, that way, for me!😁 It should look pretty cool, I think. I am really happy with the decals. Now, I need to find a purple, to go with the name. I'm leaning towards a Minnesota Vikings kind of color. Maybe a little more red, without venturing too far toward maroon. I also want it to be a solid color, not pearl, or metallic. I'll be going with the twelve-spoke wheels, up front, rather than the Americans. I wasted a bunch of time looking for a decent transmission, before I realized that the bottom wasn't meant to be displayed, anyway, and, the thing's getting wrapped in a blanket. I've started finding places where I am getting "lost in" it, so that's a good sign! I always appreciate your support and commentary--and your work!

  3. 15 minutes ago, ColonelKrypton said:

    A very interesting build.  I am going to have to give a try to using some gold leaf.  Gold leaf is traditional ( i.e. real gold ) but now you can find imitation leaf in a variety of colours sold for finger nail art. Hmmmm ... starting to envision some interesting possibilities.

    cheers, Graham

    What I've been doing, is creating the graphics in PhotoImpact Pro. I can do the text, with a background color, to help with visibility, and a heavy black border, and a drop-shadow, if I want one. I can then use the same text, and convert it in the program to just an outline, then add the border to that. Then, once the decals are printed and clear-coated, I get out the little brushes, and apply the One-Shot enamel, or the adhesive for the leaf to the colored "background" area of the base decal. Once the paint has dried, or the leaf applied, I apply the top, outline-only decal. That cleans up the borders, and makes everything look all spiffy! I have found that it's best to apply the top decal one word-at-a-time, because the film can stretch, over a lnger distance, making alignment difficult, if not impossible. I am very happy with the results!

    • Thanks 1
  4. I wasn't sure about posting a thread on this, but, it looks like this is what's coming off my workbench, next. Inevitably, I had to build a Badman. I built one fifty years ago, and I've always wanted to build another one. For some unknown reason, in spite of its flaws, it's always been a favorite, of mine. It came about, now, because, I suffered a modeling "depression" immediately upon finishing the N/TF car. I'd planned to do the Monogram Chaparral 2D, next, but it just wasn't "grabbing" me. I started fiddling around, with this, and for the last month, or so, have been kind of pecking at it.

    I decided to do it as an altered, rather than a gasser, because I always want to play with aluminum sheet! Gassers have to have upholstery, so...Also, I wanted to gut the front end. I still need to fabricate and install the door bars in the roll cage, and create mounting points for the shocks. It's going to be, essentially, a glorified curbside, in that, if something's not hanging beneath the chassis, and visible, I'm not messing with it--mainly because I didn't feel like dealing with the molded-in exhaust. I am planning to do a mechanically injected 427, with bent stacks, like Bruce Larson's Chevelle. I have the major decals done. I'll get into some detail about them, at some point. They feature a technique I have been working on that is similar to the way Fred Cady's decals worked, except with paint, and stuff (in this case, gold leaf!).

    I milled the timing cover. The rules recommend a push bar, in place of a rear bumper--okay! The rear axle housing is from Miss Deal. Springs, traction bars (I still need to build the spring mounts) and front axle are scratchbuilt. That thing sitting on top of the cage is the dash faceplate. Your comments, critiques and questions are always welcomed. Thanks for looking!

     

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    • Like 5
  5. Just like the real thing! I have been thinking for years about building an adjustable chassis jig, so that, by turning a screw, I could adjust the wheelbase, and another couple, I could adjust the ride height, to accommodate different tires. I just never got around to finalizing a design, and building it. Typically, I just mark it out on a balsa sheet, and start pinning and soldering.

    You're really making some great progress, Ian!

  6. 17 hours ago, Ace-Garageguy said:

    Absolutely correct, but a very large percentage of web users accept the first thing Google vomits up as gospel, or whatever is repeated most often on social or other media.

    My guess is that's because critical-thinking skills are headed the way of the dodo and dinosaurs.

    • Like 2
  7. On 4/14/2024 at 7:08 PM, Claude Thibodeau said:

    I did not know that about Kiss. So, I guess I wasn't so far off when I tought about this paint scheme. Who would have tought? LOL.

    I think it was Cruz Pedregon who had Ratt on his car, at one time. NHRA had Stephen Pearcy's band doing intros, for a while, on their TV coverage. Capps is a hard rock guy, too. He hangs out with Dave Meniketti (Y&T), fairly regularly.

  8. I have always preferred good ol' Micro Set and Micro Sol. I can't think of an instance in which they failed me. I have heard some guys say there are certain decal manufacturers on whose decals they don't really have an effect. I haven't run across that instance, however.

    • Like 1
  9. 12 hours ago, Bakore said:

    This information would appear to be either dated or wrong. I can still find Testors paint at local and national hobby Stores (Hobby Lobby, HobbyTown USA, etc). I can get  online and order them straight from the website. I have even exchanged emails with a company rep looking for bulk quantities of Flat Aircraft Grey (no, they don't do gallon cans of Testors, although she was nice enough to point me at a company that can match the color legally). So, just putting that out there.

    Yes, this was an overreaction to Testors announcing the discontinuance of the Model Master line.

  10. 5 hours ago, bobss396 said:

    Gofers are not so bad. I have never been successful getting the thick ribbon through the hardware and getting it glued together. I use either paper from other belt kits or ribbon.

    The ribbon is way too heavily-textured, as well. I have been using wine bottle foil, for about thirty years, now. I really like that I can "pose" it. It's a little thicker than paper, but, it will fit!

  11. 19 hours ago, Ace-Garageguy said:

    Thanks for posting and bringing it to my attention. What a beautiful model, whether scratchbuilt or not.

    I've never seen the process of building an alloy body over a wooden buck modeled before.  :)

    You're most welcome. I just figured that you'd appreciate what it was! It might be fun to actually scratchbuild something like that!

  12. 11 hours ago, Mike Williams said:

    Daniel, you've built a very similar car before, your Jr. Dragster, aluminum body. Are you really thinking the same, basic type, with 'The Surfers' car? I agree, these boys were different, and very quick. I've collected lots of photos and literature about these guys, was also considering a replica. Just proper tires and wheels in 1:16 aren't easy to come by. If you can find the correct parts...Do it!  Mike..

    It's somewhat similar, but the Junior Fueler is built with a Ramchargers chassis. I've never been able to figure out what MPC was thinking, with that kit, making it a "legs under" chassis. The 1:1 Ramchargers car was a Don Long chassis! I think I have everything I'll need collected, so I'm pretty much ready to go!

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