Straightliner59

I use 5"x7" sheets of aluminum flashing. They're about .005" thick. I love the stuff! I have two dragsters that I built bodies for, using it. For compound curves, it needs to be sanded to remove the plastic coating, because of the flame required to anneal the sheet. I don't bother with that, for flat panels, or simple curves. I don't think there's anything I have built in the last ten years that doesn't have some! I also like to use Maid-O-Metal tooling aluminum (available at Hobby Lobby or Michael's), in instances where a simple overlay will work. It's much softer, and more malleable, but leaves something to be desired, structurally!🙂 I discovered that, after I built the bodies for the aforementioned dragsters from tooling aluminum, first. If you're interested in working with it, let me know--I've probably picked up a few tips, over the years. Thanks, Scott! Thank you, my friend. This was supposed to be quick and easy! Things never seem to work out, that way, for me!😁 It should look pretty cool, I think. I am really happy with the decals. Now, I need to find a purple, to go with the name. I'm leaning towards a Minnesota Vikings kind of color. Maybe a little more red, without venturing too far toward maroon. I also want it to be a solid color, not pearl, or metallic. I'll be going with the twelve-spoke wheels, up front, rather than the Americans. I wasted a bunch of time looking for a decent transmission, before I realized that the bottom wasn't meant to be displayed, anyway, and, the thing's getting wrapped in a blanket. I've started finding places where I am getting "lost in" it, so that's a good sign! I always appreciate your support and commentary--and your work!

What I've been doing, is creating the graphics in PhotoImpact Pro. I can do the text, with a background color, to help with visibility, and a heavy black border, and a drop-shadow, if I want one. I can then use the same text, and convert it in the program to just an outline, then add the border to that. Then, once the decals are printed and clear-coated, I get out the little brushes, and apply the One-Shot enamel, or the adhesive for the leaf to the colored "background" area of the base decal. Once the paint has dried, or the leaf applied, I apply the top, outline-only decal. That cleans up the borders, and makes everything look all spiffy! I have found that it's best to apply the top decal one word-at-a-time, because the film can stretch, over a lnger distance, making alignment difficult, if not impossible. I am very happy with the results!

I wasn't sure about posting a thread on this, but, it looks like this is what's coming off my workbench, next. Inevitably, I had to build a Badman. I built one fifty years ago, and I've always wanted to build another one. For some unknown reason, in spite of its flaws, it's always been a favorite, of mine. It came about, now, because, I suffered a modeling "depression" immediately upon finishing the N/TF car. I'd planned to do the Monogram Chaparral 2D, next, but it just wasn't "grabbing" me. I started fiddling around, with this, and for the last month, or so, have been kind of pecking at it. I decided to do it as an altered, rather than a gasser, because I always want to play with aluminum sheet! Gassers have to have upholstery, so...Also, I wanted to gut the front end. I still need to fabricate and install the door bars in the roll cage, and create mounting points for the shocks. It's going to be, essentially, a glorified curbside, in that, if something's not hanging beneath the chassis, and visible, I'm not messing with it--mainly because I didn't feel like dealing with the molded-in exhaust. I am planning to do a mechanically injected 427, with bent stacks, like Bruce Larson's Chevelle. I have the major decals done. I'll get into some detail about them, at some point. They feature a technique I have been working on that is similar to the way Fred Cady's decals worked, except with paint, and stuff (in this case, gold leaf!). I milled the timing cover. The rules recommend a push bar, in place of a rear bumper--okay! The rear axle housing is from Miss Deal. Springs, traction bars (I still need to build the spring mounts) and front axle are scratchbuilt. That thing sitting on top of the cage is the dash faceplate. Your comments, critiques and questions are always welcomed. Thanks for looking!

I've been wanting a set of WW collets for my lathe. I came across this deal on Ebay. Sherline sells the collet set for $106, as I recall. For $100, I got the collets set, and 20 assorted end mills, a set of Sherline center drills, a 3/32" chucking reamer, and a couple of other specialty bits! I couldn't pass it up!

Nailed it! Beautifully, too, I might add!

Excellent work, Francis. As always, I appreciate seeing your process. It's very helpful, and inspirational.

What a beauty, Pierre! The wheels just complete it. Everything looks just right--weathering--all of it. Excellent work, my friend!

That's neat, Jim! I have one of them, but I don't recall which one, of the top of my head. Bernard Kron did one as a 1/25 scale (I think) 'liner. It's on the board, here, somewhere. Nice work!

I completely agree. That means my Surfer's car will be authentic, as well!😅 Except, not on concrete.

Just like the real thing! I have been thinking for years about building an adjustable chassis jig, so that, by turning a screw, I could adjust the wheelbase, and another couple, I could adjust the ride height, to accommodate different tires. I just never got around to finalizing a design, and building it. Typically, I just mark it out on a balsa sheet, and start pinning and soldering. You're really making some great progress, Ian!

That's good advice, in any situation!

My guess is that's because critical-thinking skills are headed the way of the dodo and dinosaurs.

I think it was Cruz Pedregon who had Ratt on his car, at one time. NHRA had Stephen Pearcy's band doing intros, for a while, on their TV coverage. Capps is a hard rock guy, too. He hangs out with Dave Meniketti (Y&T), fairly regularly.

While, as always, your work is fantastic, that grille is super-impressive! It's utterly gorgeous, opened up, like that!

I have always preferred good ol' Micro Set and Micro Sol. I can't think of an instance in which they failed me. I have heard some guys say there are certain decal manufacturers on whose decals they don't really have an effect. I haven't run across that instance, however.

I didn't miss that. I have actually held it in my hands! It's amazing!

This has got me interested in trying something, even if it's of my own design, just to play with the technique! Something like an aluminum streamliner comes most-readily to mind.

Yes, this was an overreaction to Testors announcing the discontinuance of the Model Master line.

The ribbon is way too heavily-textured, as well. I have been using wine bottle foil, for about thirty years, now. I really like that I can "pose" it. It's a little thicker than paper, but, it will fit!

Gofer Racing makes some generic stock-type buckles. Some interior detail sets have them, specific to a car/brand. For domestic cars, one of the companies that would likely have them would be Model Car Garage, in some of his detail sets.

You're most welcome. I just figured that you'd appreciate what it was! It might be fun to actually scratchbuild something like that!

It's somewhat similar, but the Junior Fueler is built with a Ramchargers chassis. I've never been able to figure out what MPC was thinking, with that kit, making it a "legs under" chassis. The 1:1 Ramchargers car was a Don Long chassis! I think I have everything I'll need collected, so I'm pretty much ready to go!

The wire is another excellent idea! Going to try to remember that, next time I need it!

I thought this was scratchbuilt, but it says "box stock" right above "not a Metal Earth kit". I didn't even notice the former, until I just now looked again at the photos!😅

@Ace-GarageguyThis was at a show i attended, today. I thought it was really cool, but, definitely thought of you, almost immediately. It's scratchbuilt, and really, really cool! Sorry for the quality of the photos, contest tables are never the best, for shooting.