Straightliner59

I have been wanting to pick up one of the new ones. I haven't looked at one, yet, but it sounds like they're nice.

These look great! I totally apprecite tht you scratch built them. Much respect, for that!

Thank you, Mark! I appreciate that. It does feel like it's a cohesive design, to me. It has some elegance, but it's muscular, I guess, seems like a decent analogy. Thanks, again!

A few further items done: The windshield is finally fitted and ready for paint and Bare-Metal. I cut the roll bars to the proper height. I also cemented in the bezels for the front turn signals, and installed the taillights. I still need to make and install the bezels for the B/U lamps (in the original exhaust openings). It's not too far out, now! Questions, critiques and comments are always welcomed. Thanks for looking!

You're exactly right. One time, same as the CO 4070A, as I recall.

I bought six or seven small cans, about eight years ago. There's one chain of local paint stores that still carry it. When I first bought any, about 40 years ago, it contained lead. I haven't looked at the newer ones, to see if it's gone, or not.

I first bought it for lettering models, but discovered that it's great to shoot.

That's what I painted my Badman with. I mixed a purple from red and blue,cut it with lacquer thinner and shot away! It flows out, so nicely.

Here you go! I found 'em.

Detail Master has nice ones. They're right for the era. If you find the thread for my Junior Fuel dragster, you can see them.

I'm a little surprised someone hasn't done them, yet. That would definitely be the way to go.

And yes, I enjoy scratch building K valves. Does anyone know if there is a resin one available? You do a great job, with them! They are tedious to build, but they're a detail worth doing correctly. I have a mold Don Fahrni and I made forty years ago, or so. It's still viable, but even using nail resin, it sometimes takes a couple of tries to get a good one. It's such a small, detailed cavity, it's difficult to get resin in all the places it needs to be.

I think that '92 is the best vintage Hemi around. Still. Congratulations on attempting an entire engine! I have yet to attempt that. Nice work!

If I need to. Usually, if applied soon enough, the slightly tacky paint will fix it. I should add that I also use the pencil to pick out/highlight some of the bolts, and other raised details.

Glad you're sticking with the "W" Head! Looks way cool!

When I want to replicate old steel, I generally start with a semi-gloss/satin black base. I use Krylon paint, because it dries quickly. About 15-20 minutes after I shoot it, I use a flat-tipped brush to work in a mixture of powdered pastels, usually a mix of tans, greys, pale yellows, and browns/brown-reds. I also hit the edges and corners with a soft drawing pencil. Finally, I lightly apply some pencil, using the side of the point, and rub it in, with a Q-Tip or soft cloth. I like the understated look.

I,ve found that it's easier to fit the foil through the slots, before drinking the wine!😅

Nothing wrong with that!

Yessir! I use it, almost exclusively, for straps.

I like to use wine bottle foil for belt material. I like that I can pose it to look more natural, than the ribbon, or paper that is usually supplied.

I finished up the polishing, and added the bumpers, grill surround, grille bar and headlight assemblies. Looks to be getting close! Thanks for looking!

I will be looking forward to what you will do with one of these , my friend!

The body's polished out, excepting the left front corner--basically, the left side of the hood is all that's left. Then, I'll look for little missed spots, and fix those. I also have added .080" half-round, to the top and bottom interior of the windshield. Those'll get bare-metaled. I am close to installing the interior and chassis, into the body! From there, about all that will be left to install will be the bumpers and lights. Thanks for looking!

I agree with Bill. Bare-Metal is going to be your best bet!

What Andy said! You're off to a good start!