Straightliner59

Thank you, Francis! The brakes I found were molded in red. I suspect either Revell or Johan, but leaning toward the former. I love everything I have seen, of Norm's stuff, but haven't found a convenient enough way to order it. That might be a good thing! I love those little details. The most interesting models, to me, are those that have enough details to keep your eyes busy for an extended time--that's part of what I am enjoying with your pickup! Thanks again for your kind words, and for checking in! Both are much appreciated!

I couldn't help but to see how it looks with the body on, again...the radiator is just tacky-glued into place. Thus, the lean.

I found some front brake backing plates I really liked--even better than without them. Then, when I was working on them, I messed one up. I'm not sure where they came from, but I am reasonably sure I don't have any more. I ended up fixing one, the making a mold and casting a pair. They can be seen in these photos. They aren't properly oriented, yet, because at some point, this entire assembly will be dismantled. However, i now know that all the major components fit to, and with the chassis. I think that next, I will open a hole in the floor, for the master cylinder cap. It's kinda starting to look like a hot rod! I am kind of leaning toward something like Royal Blue, or Navy Blue for the body, when the time comes, but, definitely not sold on it. As always, thanks for looking! Questions, comments,and critiques are always welcome!

Thanks, Ron. I can think of a few other ways!

Thank you, Carl and Chris! Very much appreciated.

I thought so! I grew up, just south of the border. South of Lethbridge.

Thank you, Scott. It's much appreciated!

Thank you, again, Francis! I really like the hexagonal pattern, compared to the rectangles on the earlier taillights. I have built a few snap kits over the last three tears, or so. They're a lot of fun!

Well, there is that! I used to use 3M's Acryl Blue. I liked it, but, the vast majority of it dried out, before I could use it--the tube was huge!

Cool! That paint looks familiar. Is that an Alberta car? Seems like I might have seen Vern Scholz post pictures of it.

Thanks again, Francis. Even when I build something simple, like this, I try to generate visual interest, whether via paint, or small details to catch a viewer's eye. I am pretty happy with it, but, as always, there's room for improvement!

Looking great, Andrew! With the body coming together, perhaps you're really turning the corner. Loving your work on this piece!

Hi, Francis. Thanks for checking in! Your comments are very much appreciated! I have been admiring and enjoying your work on your pickup. That thing is amazing, sir! Thanks again! Glad to see you, here.

Thanks, Larry!

Thanks, David. I hope to keep updating this thread, regularly. Thank you, sir. I didn't think I would be able to make it small enough, and with enough strength, from plastic, so, I decided to use brass. It does look pretty cool! Once it's all cleaned up, it should look even better. Thanks to you both, for looking and commenting!It's much appreciated.

Thank you, Ray! I think the paint scheme matches the time period, pretty well.

After finishing up the Firebird, I finally got back to work on this. I needed to make sure the pedals and arms and levers, and all that stuff would clear each other, so I white glued it all together, along with the master cylinder and the brake pushrod. It looks like it'll all work, so I can finish tacking the suspension back together. I also need to see if I can find a set of brakes for the front. If I can find some I like, I will use them. Otherwise I'll go suicide style! As always, critiques, questions and comments are always welcome. Thanks for looking!

I just finished this, over the past weekend. It's an AMT snap-together/unassembled promo that came in a three(?) pack, from a Kaybee Toys outlet store.The chassis is a sheet styrene plate. I cut out half circles of sheet to support the axles. I blacked out the windows, since it was never intended to be anything more than a slammer. When I started painting it, thirteen years ago (?), I thought I had a plan for it, so, I taped it off and began spraying what the can's label showed to be a pale yellow. As soon as I started shooting it, I realized that the label was wrong! Out came a dusty coral color, which would have looked great, on a 'sled, but, not so much on an early 2000s race car! Back in the box, it went. Fast-forward to 2017. I returned to Colorado, and had gone to visit my late friend, Don Fahrni, and had taken the model with me, to show him. I took one look at it, and handed me a can of Testor's Inca Gold, and said, "Fix that!" So, I did. He was much happier. While the color was better, I still really didn't have a plan for the paint scheme. I decided to use it as my entry in Snake's "Bring Out Your Dead" thread. I needed to come up with a scheme, for the paint. Out of some sort of desperation, I just began to tear pieces of masking tape, and apply them over the paint that was already there. Next I shot some Plasti-cote automotive paint (I don't recall the color's name) over that. I followed that up by striping the colors off with One-Shot Process Blue. I made the door markings and the hexagon pattern for the taillights , as well as the "Conrad's Engine Service" decals on an inkjet printer. I added wheelie bars and a master kill switch to the rear of the car. It's far from perfect, but, I like the way it looks. It's probably a tad low,in front. By rule it should be no lower than 3", and I think this is about 2". Anyway... Questions, comments and critiques are always welcome! Thanks for looking!

Agreed. I always thinned it to the consistency of milk or half and half, which fits John Pol's description. Somewhere between 20 and 30 PSI...

Thanks, Ron. I didn't plan the paint, and just ended up winging it, with strips of torn masking tape. I used One-Shot Process Blue for the striping. I am pleasantly surprised at the way it worled out! Thanks, Scott. Since it's a slammer, it just has to look the part. It's not anywhere near perfect, but, I like it!

Those are my favorite projects! I just like to keep parts, graphics, etc. proper for the era (or year, in some cases). Most of my drag car models are like the movies that say "inspired by a true story"...This looks very cool, sir!

Brilliant idea! Such a simple, and practical solution. Thanks for passing that along!

Well, it only took thirteen years to complete this slammer! ? Here she is. She's really rough, but, I thought fourteen years to build a slammer would be a little excessive! I made the door markings on an inkjet printer, as well as the Phoenix on the nose, and my mostly-ubiquitous "Conrad's Engine Service" tag, which is a tribute to my dad. If you don't look too close, it looks pretty cool, I think! Questions, comments, critiques are always welcome! Thanks for looking!

I stand corrected. I was thinking of the later altered wheelbase cars that morphed into FCs.

I have a bunch of that stuff from Cornwall. I love it! It used to be marketed in the U.S. by Midwest Models (the balsa wood folks) under the name "Super Styrene". Absolutely! If you're building a replica, you need to know what that particular car used. If you're building an accurate, fictional racer, then, as Bill pointed out, you must default to the rule book for the year you want to build for. All that said, while it scales out a tad larger than required by rule, I think that, in instances of enclosed cars, .080" looks best.