Straightliner59

I know you're a fan of rescues! I think it may have been your thread that sparked this, in my head. Both the GTOs look much better, in the "after" photos! I don't have any "before" photos of my diggers, since I don't even think I owned a camera, then. Certainly not one that would shoot models. You're welcome, Snake! This should be fun!

Now you're talking! ?

It may have been done, before, but, I couldn't find it...I was thinking a thread of folks' models that were saved glue bombs might be interesting! I'll start with the three I have. Oddly enough, they are all early Monogram dragsters. The first one I built was the Long John. I was working in a hobby shop when a friend walked in, handed me a baggie of glue-marred parts, a few of which were broken, and asked me if I wanted it, since he was "never going to build it". This was years before the kit was reissued. Of course, I was all too happy to have it. I think I built it within the next few weeks. When I showed it to him, he said, "If I had known it could look that good, I would have kept it!" I just now realized that I never put a brake handle, on this thing! There's a quickie project! One of the guys I worked with, at that same shop brought in the Sizzler, one day to show it to me. It was in basically the same condition as the Long John, but, a couple of its parts had gone AWOL. I asked him if I could build it for him, and said that he could have it back, once it was done. I went to work on this one, pretty quickly, as well, and finished in a matter of weeks. When I took it back to him, he said, "No. You built it. It's yours!" The last of the three I built was the Slingshot/Cook and Bedwell dragster. I found it at a swap meet, and paid a buck, for it. It was probably four, or five years, before I finished it. I spent some time with this one, because I could so clearly see the Cook and Bedwell car in the lines and form of the Slingshot, that I wanted to build it as a replica. In retrospect, I think the blue may be a little too dark. I'm sure the one in Garlits' museum isn't the right color, because the real car was painted a metallic blue, and the museum car appears to be almost a French blue. I used the old HRM article for reference, and I don't recall mention of the color, in it, other than saying it was blue. All three of these models were original issues, and were built before the Slingshot and Long John were ever reissued. The decals on the C&B car were made by Jack Smith. Last I knew, he still had some available. Any questions or comments regarding my models are welcome, but, I'd really like to see models that others have saved from their despair! ?

You're welcome! Hope it's a help. I bought most of my brushes at art supply stores, as well. There's no substitute for a quality tool!

I use a Silicoil brush cleaning tank. It's not as complex as it sounds! Since I use mostly enamels, I use their fluid, as well, but mineral spirits would work fine, I'd think. It was made for oil painters, and is available in art supply stores, or, all over the place, online! I have brushes I still use, even after 40 years.

Rush has been my favorite band since 1977. Saw them 13 times, the first in May, 1978 at the Auditorium Arena in Denver. They are the closest thing to a religion, in my life, for most of my life. Much of that waas due to Neil's lyrics. They simply spoke to me. I was fine with their retirement. They earned it. This is a heartbreaking blow, for me.

Hobby Lobby and Michael's both carry it. It's called "Maid-O-Metal". They also have brass and copper.

And a fine cover, it is!

I disassembled the front suspension so that I could make and install the tie rod. That's done! Now, to decide about the radius rods. The ones I made may be a bit too fine, so I may need to redo them with different ends, and 1/32" tube. Here are a couple of photos of the re-installed suspension. Questions, comments and critiques are always welcome!

Great work, Steve. I have been enjoying watching this come together. The other day, I was thinking about the fabulous work you've done with the air cleaner, and burnished a small piece of tooling aluminum over a similar one I had in the parts boxes, and thought that I should post it, in case you were interested in making one for your Olds. It only took maybe five minutes. I didn't trim it very well, because I just wanted to see how well it would burnish. Anyway, in case you're interested...

That kit's worth having multiples of, just for the engine.

Here is how I learned/read how to do it: You'll need a good torch (I use a Bernzomatic MAPP gas torch), a bar of Ivory soap, and something to hold enough water to quickly quench the sheet. Coat the metal by rubbing it with the bar of Ivory soap. Light the torch, and heat the aluminum. As soon as the soap coating turns black, quench the sheet, and you should be good to go!

Yesterday, I got the steering put together Made the tie rod and got it mounted. Next, I have to re-hang the front axle, and install the radius rods.

While the flashing is a little heavy (about .008", once the plastic coating is sanded off), whatever alloy it is, is perfect for creating compound curves, such as dragster cowls, once it's been annealed. I attempted the same with tooling aluminum, but, it doesn't form complex curves as readily. It tends to buckle, fold. Neither tooling aluminum or roaster pan aluminum feel really stiff/durable enough to build entire bodies with, although they do work nicely to create the odd panel, by burnishing them over a kit part. Tooling aluminum works wonderfully to make things like baby moons, and other plain hubcaps. I rubbed some down over the top of an air cleaner, and in the instance I was super-detailing one, I would definitely go that route. They all have their place, and each is better suited to some tasks, than others. The bottom line is, one can never have too many different materials! ? I skinned this vac-formed tank lakester with tooling aluminum. It was just a quickie build, but fun!

Aluminum flashing is what I have used, for years. I anneal it, if I need it softer, for more complex shapes. No need for that, for making panels, etc. It does have a thin plastic coating that needs to be sanded off,if you are going to anneal it. I made the scoop for my '34 with it, as well as the interior panels and dash. The body, seat bucket and firewall for my junior fueler. It's invaluable as a building material.

I'm enjoying watching these come together. Nice work, Karl!

Before bed, this morning, I disassembled the front suspension on my Model A, and finished the steering arms on the spindles, and made the tie rod. Now, to put it all back together!

Thank you, gentlemen! Your help is much appreciated!

Does anyone know who made this? I can't find the instructions. I am wondering where the little tabs go.

Looking good, Bill! I just took the front suspension apart on my Model A, so I can finish the spindles. I'm going to do pretty much as you, so I'll be looking in, as you update. Thanks for all the knowledge you share. It's much appreciated.

Aleene's tacky glue is my choice. That's the stuff Snake displayed. Like he said, it's available at Walmart. It's also at virtually any craft store.

Clearly, you don't know me! ? All kidding aside, thank you for your kind words. I'm not sure if I want to hang the pedals as they are stock, or devise some hot rodder's adaptation. Whichever way I go, I will make sure that it would work, in real life. I'm going to use a little "fruit jar" master cylinder. Your photos of your model's bellhousing/trans is very helpful! Thanks! Nice job with the clutch and brake pedal setup! Thanks for looking in, Jay.

Thanks, Paul! Yes, I don't want a rat rod, and I prefer the old stuff, to the high tech rods. Thanks for looking in!

This is a very cool project! Very nice work, sir!

Thank you, JC! I hope I can keep it rolling! It's time to start sorting out the pedals, and how I am going to mount them...