Straightliner59

Thank you, Tim! I find an acorn from time-to-time. You, sir, are the guru, when it comes to kitbashing! I've been reading back through a lot of my old magazines, lately. That means I have also been enjoying a ton of your work. Thank you for everything you have done, and continue to do for this hobby.

Tom, maybe I like black, because it hides all my imperfections! ? Somewhere, I've seen some of these painted green, I thought. If not, I guess green is a part of my vision for this engine. I'm thinking a medium forest or olive green, maybe. Here are the first shots with the header in place, and the engine between the rails, with the body on. I will have to modify the pipes, so that they will clear the body. The stance isn't finalized here, the chassis is just sitting on blocks, to provide something close. I was absolutely sold on the BMW wheels...until I used a punch and dapping block on some tooling aluminum, to do this: The aluminum is scratched, and has tiny dents in it. That's just the look I want for this car. I have made three different centers for the Beemer wheels: While I used the rotary table and mill to make these centers, when I was finishing them, I used a tip that Ace (I think) mentioned that bears repeating: A few small milling bits can be handy to have around, even if you don't own a mill. A 1/16" ball-ended mill was used by hand to cut the reliefs in the disc, below. Small flat end mills can be used to square the bottom of an indentation. End mills with a 1/8" shank can be inserted into a pin vise. Lastly, this is probably my least favorite, because I think it looks too modern, for where I want this project to go. Anybody care to help me decide which of the four wheels to go with? I would very much appreciate everyone's feedback! Thanks for looking at this.

As I was looking through my photo files, I came across these pics of a speedster I started working on many years ago. These really are beautiful little flatties!

They will be the same as the old MPC Pro Stock Vegas. The chassis is a stock kit type with all the stock junk molded on, and the rear cut out for the slicks, and the front opened up to accept an engine. However, by using the chassis from the Dobbertin Olds, or Revell's pro street Beretta, you could build a pretty cool Super Gas car! I started playing with one, back in the '80s, so I know it can be made to work. As I recall, it was pretty simple to do.

I will be looking forward to that! I enjoy travelogues, and that one's a classic.

Micro Superfilm is safe for all decals. I have yet to hear of an instance in which it's failed to save an old sheet(although, I am sure there are exceptions). Just brush it on, and let it dry, and apply, as usual. They recommend multiple coats for older decals. Granted, once they've disintegrated in water, it's a bit late! ?

I have decided to use the Beemer wheels. I made a mold of the Heller piece, because I only found one of them. Once they were cast, the wheels just fell through the tire. I added a strip of Plastruct .030" half-round to the perimeter of the wheel, which, I think looks better than without it. I will get to the hobby shop in the next couple of weeks, and will pick up some .020" half-round, and try that, as well. Also, slightly visible is the milled indent for a hub. This one is 1/4", but, in order for it to fit the bolt pattern, I will go with 5/16" for the finished wheel. Right now, I am experimenting, working toward a master that I can make a final mold from, and have five lug disc wheel. The first photo illustrates the half-round,applied to the rim. The next features the new wheel, as well as the original Heller part, and the casting, without the flange, which is clearly too small. Finally, we have the modified casting alongside the "straight-from-the-mold" casting.

Are you doing a "Travels With Charlie" build? Did he not dub his truck "Rocinante"?

Obviously, this is a Comet, but...Hey! I can scan this for you, Tim, if it would be helpful. It's from Hot Rod Magazine's Yearbook number 11. It might take me a couple of days to get to it. I had forgotten that this one isn't a tubed-frame car. But, I guess that makes sense, since his was so early in Pro Stock's infancy. Thanks for the tip on Nostalgia Pro Stock, on FB. Excellent source!

I'm really enjoying your work on both this and the Corvette. I think the headlights on a deuce look so much better, "pulled in" like this. It's a much cleaner look. And--This is a great mantra!

It was. I have three of them, around here!

Thanks, David! I appreciate it! It's fun, in this wheelhouse! I've wanted and old style hot rod, for a long time, and one night, I opened the closet, and the little coupe called to me! Interestingly, the wire front wheels originally came out of this very kit. I'd shuffled them to several different projects/ideas, over the years. I first built them over 20 years ago! Now, they come home to stay. I have the Revell Woodie and the "Rat Rod" release of Revell's venerable roadster pickup. The engine in the Woodie is pretty nice! I was going to keep this simple, and use the engine from this kit, but, I hated the oil filler tube, and knew it would be way too much hassle to clean its remains from between the cylinders, and, off I went! I think I will make the oil line on the right side of the engine with copper line and brass fittings, just for appearance' sake. What would you recommend for green paint for the Engine? I think I want to go with that early Ford green. Thanks for your comments, Bernard!

While waiting for paint to cure on the Firebird, I worked on some stuff for this project. I am really liking the look of the wheels from the Heller BMW 328. They fit better with the rear suspension than the '37 pickup's wheels do. I will probably make new centers for these wheels (I made a mold), with detail for five lugs. Apparently, there are at least a thousand ways to attach the spring to the axle. If it sits low enough, I will mount the bracket where it's shown in the photo, If I need another couple or three inches, I will move it around, to the rear of the backing plate. Also visible is the area I cut out of the rear crossmember, to allow the spring to sit higher in the chassis. I didn't/don't want to "z" the frame. I made an aluminum side cover for the engine. It looked pretty lifeless, just as it was, so, I used a set of wide-jawed pliers to put a gentle fold down the center of its length, then used them to re-flatten the end. I still need to mark it, and drill it for mounting bolts. Comments, questions and critiques are always welcome! Thanks fer lookin'!

Thanks, Vince. Like I said, I think I can fix it. Here are a few photos: The yellow arrows show where the damages occurred to the spoiler. The ellipses show a spot where the blue stripes "bubbled" on the hood. There are a few spots in which that happened. It's not good, but, it's not nearly as bad as I first feared. I believe some wet sanding will clean it up, a lot. I will smooth out the areas on the spoiler, as well, and redo the stripes, on it.

You know what would make a great diorama? Flamin' Frank's coupe, in the top end turnout area, with the 'chute deployed, and lying on the ground with a rattlesnake (in real life, it had been caught by the chute, and was inside of it, but, if no one can see the snake, the rest of the dio wouldn't make sense). Out of the roof of the coupe, are Flamin' Frank's legs, after he dove head-first, to get back into the car!

Nope! I'm convinced I can fix it, having taken a look at it. It took the ol' double whammy! On the way outside, to shoot clear on it, as I was opening the front door, something caused the body to leap from the paint stand, right to the tile floor, below. Off comes the spoiler, with chunks of paint missing, in three places. I placed small bits of tape, to surround the holes in the paint, re-primed that, and have shot some red, over that One more coat of red should suffice. Then I can peel the tape and see if I can live with it. Then I can re-stripe the spoiler and clear coat that. As for the body, it was apparently none the worse for wear, so I cleaned it up, and cleared it. I must have been feeling a little too relieved, because I shot a little too much clear on the second coat, on the right hand side of the car, and slightly wrinkled some of the One Shot. In a couple of days, I'll wet sand the entire body (anyway) and, touch those stripes up, if necessary. Hell, it wasn't going to win any "Best Paint" awards, anyway. I like the door graphics I designed for it. too much, not to finish it in this scheme! It might take me three weeks to get it finished now, instead of two!

I may have just ruined the paint on my Firebird. If that's the case, it's a dead player!

Thanks for (re)posting these, Bill. I never noticed all the engine-turning, on Mailliard's 'winder. I wouldn't really care to be anywhere near that chain drive, though!

John, that is exactly how Paeth did it! This site has it available in several quantities. http://www.whimsie.com/toolingfoilcoppermetal.html It's known as "tooling" or "embossing" foil. It is also available in actual brass and copper, as well. I saw some on Ebay that is 38 ga. which might work even easier. I only saw it in longer rolls, at a much greater price. The stuff I have comes in a yellow tube. The foil is 12" wide and 36" long. I must have gone nuts, at some point, because I have 3+ rolls of the stuff! If you were in my neighborhood, I'd say swing on by and I'll give you one of them! ?

Bob Paeth used to form foil over the straight body parts, then dent the new aluminum parts. I saw him demonstrate it at a contest, once. It looks great! I think tooling aluminum (Maid-O-Metal is what I have. Available at HL and Michael's) would be best suited to this application.

That's the story of my life, TJ. I am certain we are not alone, in that!

Upon further review, the Beemer has knockoffs. Still, I could make a new center with notches for five lugs...

That's right! I don't have one, and couldn't remember what it was. Thanks, Steve.

That is a cool comp "coupe"!

That is about a butt-ugly MF!