Straightliner59

Well, hell, man. Thanks!

Having finished two projects that averaged about 20 years old, in the last two years, I guess you know my position! ?

I added a few more details to the engine. Since the solenoid/switch cover is stamped, I carved one out of some .060" Evergreen and embossed some tooling aluminum over it. I made and mounted the water pump mount, and added the little bosses on the lower block sides, that the oil pan bolts thread into. Turned a crank pulley, but, I am unsure of the size of the pulley, so I eyeballed it. Questions, comments and critiques are always welcome!

And I heard it that the wire was fed through the now hollow drill bit, and tied, at both ends! It's gotta' be urban legend--it has all the elements.

Like I said--there isn't much left of all that angle stock. One motor...mounted! Complete with real rubber biscuits!

I had to do a little reshaping on the block, where it meets the pan rail. I installed the tubing that makes the space for the crankshaft too far out, over the pan. The flathead four has a flange cast to the block, that the pan bolts to, rather than the pan's flange overlapping the block. I got that mostly fixed, less a little more rounding-off. The beginnings of the front engine mount are in place. When I am done with it, there won't be much left of that angle stock! I carved the water outlet from .125"X.156" Evergreen strip. I need to find something I can flow into all these gaps. I am wondering if maybe Mr. Surfacer, applied with a fine brush would work. I'm asking, because I don't have any, and am wondering if it's worth the investment. Also attached is a photo of the block, before I cut the flange.

A read through the rules says I will be good! It says no parts newer than 1953. The rear brakes are about 1950, and those are the newest parts I can think of, on the car. Thanks, Tom! I can get my real hot rod, and a TROG racer, all at once. I want it to be streetable, too, so I will need headlights. I'll put tape on the lenses, because I think that looks cool. I'll do it like I did on my Aluma Coupe.

Excellent, Bernard! I am looking forward to watching this one come back to life! Thanks for your kind words, re: my junior fueler. I will probably get some wet sanding done on the Firebird, this weekend (if I don't get lost in the Model A!). Would love to have it off the bench, and in the display case.

Thanks, David. Glad you're enjoying the thread. I am, indeed using the truck wheels with the baby moons on the rear. Once I made the "moons" from tooling aluminum, I knew that's what I would use. They just looked too good! Thanks, so much, Tom! You know, I was worried that I might be illegal, as a TROG racer, but, at a glance, my equipment all might be old enough. Thanks for the link! When I get home from work, I will have a more in-depth look at your album, because I might be able to whack two project birds with one rock!

It's on the wheels! I've included a shot of the new trunk lid. I think next up will be the front motor mount.

Thank you, JC. She's coming along!!

I do. I work nights, so, when I am off, I maintain my regular schedule. My schedule is fairly similar to your.

I've got a few more things done. I got the trunk lid cemented into place. The spindles are built. If I can get the front axle remounted before I go to bed, I can get it on the wheels! Always a big step! As always, questionsm comments and critiques are welcome.

Holy cow! I've had a Cricut Explore for a little over two years, and have done nothing with it. It looks like you have unlocked much of the machine's potential. I need to get busy, I guess!

The more I look at the Cobra, the more impressed I am, with it. That is some fabulous work, Peter! That it's 1/43 scale is mind-blowing. Great piece!

Sweet! I've long thought about doing one of those--or maybe the Corvette. A friend of mine, Derek Brown, built a Bill Elliott Thunderbird from a Starter kit. It was unbelievable, how thin he was able to get that body, so he could install a scratchbuilt chassis and cage in it. I wish I had photos of it. It may have been in MCM, back in its day.

I always enjoy watching guys build, who are as nuts as I am. Love all the little details you're implementing, Steve. Very fine craftsmanship, sir!

What a beauty! Very nice work!

That is what I would do. Good thinking!

Front axle is mounted...

Thanks, Greg! It fits tightly, now, for sure. All I need to do is ease the edges, and cement it into place.

Early this morning, I was digging parts from the kit box, and discovered that the lid for the rumble seat is missing. I thought about trying to find a parts kit I could pick up, for a reasonable price. Looking at the open space in the body, I decided it wouldn't be too difficult to make one. I got out a section of .030" sheet and began working it to shape, sanding it to size. I began by "cold curling" the sheet. Once I'd gotten it as close to shape as it would go, sans heat, I turned the blow dryer on low heat, and applied that, for as long as I comfortably could, while pulling the curves tighter. After repeating that a couple of times, I had a panel that's usable. Since I'm not going to have an opening trunk/rumble seat, I can cement it into its final position. I ended up giving the panel one more heat treatment, after these photos were taken. It fits better, now.

Alene's tacky glue.

Some of the assemblies are getting close to completion of the "figgerin' out" phase. I made the front spring perches from three pieces of brass, each. I used an HO handrail stanchion for the main structure. The eye for the shackles is 3/64" brass tube, cut 3/32" long. That tube was then soldered to the handrail stanchion. Finally, I cut a 1/32" length of the 3/64" tube, to slide over the peg end of the stanchion, to give the assembly some elevation. The ball end of the stanchion will mount the shock arm. In this group of photos, everything is white glued to the chassis. One of my goals for this project, is to attempt to assemble the entire thing, be it pinned or white glued, before It's disassembled and painted. I have never really focused on that aim, but, I have had to accept many flaws, over the years, because I got too far ahead of myself.

The brass ones are especially nice in places where strength is needed. Hope you found some you can use! Thank you, Alan! I appreciate those kind words, sir! As I previously mentioned, I had mounted it that way, because The Bug was done that way. Of course, that car was built to go straight, whether on the track, or the lakes. You're right! Probably not very conducive to all-around driving. Plus, I needed to move them, because it just sat too high. Thanks, Mike! I've been watching your Old Master come together. Looks like it is getting close! Good job!