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Straightliner59

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Posts posted by Straightliner59

  1. On 4/18/2025 at 7:45 AM, rv1963 said:

    I did start using the kit engine as a guide, I have no real proof but it looks like the kit dimensions are pretty close at least to my eye by looking at other 392 hemi engines off the internet. Yes I understand that using pics of the internet will be far from perfect but at 1/24 scale it's really hard to tell at that small size, also remember these pics are blown up at least 4 times bigger than real life so the parts looks so much better at their true size.

    I think that '92 is the best vintage Hemi around. Still. Congratulations on attempting an entire engine! I have yet to attempt that. Nice work!

  2. When I want to replicate old steel, I generally start with a semi-gloss/satin black base. I use Krylon paint, because it dries quickly. About 15-20 minutes after I shoot it, I use a flat-tipped brush to work in a mixture of powdered pastels, usually a mix of tans, greys, pale yellows, and browns/brown-reds. I also hit the edges and corners with a soft drawing pencil. Finally, I lightly apply some pencil, using the side of the point, and rub it in, with a Q-Tip or soft cloth. I like the understated look.

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  3. On 6/28/2025 at 7:21 AM, Pierre Rivard said:

    Developing a passion for LSR. Found these 4 Hawk/Testors sealed streamliner kits on eBay, CAD$80 for the lot including shipping from GB. These are very simple toys (rubber band powered) and sold as 1/32 but they are a good fit for 1/25 1950's style streamliners (see size comparison to Ferrari 275P). Essentially these are only body shells and absolutely everything underneath needs to be fabricated. My kind of project!

     

     

     

    I will be looking forward to what you will do with one of these ,  my friend! 

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  4. The body's polished out, excepting the left front corner--basically, the left side of the hood is all that's left. Then, I'll look for little missed spots, and fix those. 

    I also have added .080" half-round, to the top and bottom interior of the windshield. Those'll get bare-metaled. I am close to installing the interior and chassis, into the body! From there, about all that will be left to install will be the bumpers and lights. Thanks for looking!

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  5. 4 hours ago, Bills72sj said:

    That is my go to as well. It NEVER leaves residue. It is superior in stopping bleed under such as panel lines. I can be left on for MONTHS with no ill effects. The tricky part is using it for straight lines or curves. For accomplishing that, I use 1/16" vinyl tape as an edge guide over the top of the Parafilm. I trim along its edge with a NEW hobby knife and use the thin line tape to remove the unwanted portion. Parafilm also has the benefit of being able be "fudged" into place with a toothpick for very precise placement.

    I am going to use that technique with the tape! Great call!

    • Thanks 1
  6. During my recent, involuntary internet "hiatus", I decided that the wheelwells were entirely too wide-open. I cut some half "oval/elliptical" backs from .030" sheet, then used some old long-distance phone cards to cover them. It looks much better than before! Shot clear on the body, today. I'll give it a few days, then give it some light wet sanding and a polish. In the meantime, I can get the windshield bare-metaled. Thanks for looking!

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  7. I have just got a new computer, online, since the crash of my prior unit. I see I have a lot of catching up, to do! Your fuel system pieces are utterly amazing! Well, all your work is, but small, highly detailed parts really turn my crank. Excellent progress, Tim!

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