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Posts posted by Straightliner59
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1 hour ago, sidcharles said:
Q: do you use a spray fixative to hold/ protect the dry colors?
thx
sid
If I need to. Usually, if applied soon enough, the slightly tacky paint will fix it. I should add that I also use the pencil to pick out/highlight some of the bolts, and other raised details.
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Glad you're sticking with the "W" Head! Looks way cool!
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When I want to replicate old steel, I generally start with a semi-gloss/satin black base. I use Krylon paint, because it dries quickly. About 15-20 minutes after I shoot it, I use a flat-tipped brush to work in a mixture of powdered pastels, usually a mix of tans, greys, pale yellows, and browns/brown-reds. I also hit the edges and corners with a soft drawing pencil. Finally, I lightly apply some pencil, using the side of the point, and rub it in, with a Q-Tip or soft cloth. I like the understated look.
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55 minutes ago, Pierre Rivard said:
Technical question Daniel. Do you make the straps before... or after drinking the bottle of wine?
I,ve found that it's easier to fit the foil through the slots, before drinking the wine!😅
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4 hours ago, Beans said:
Definitely going to do this!! I hate fighting the ribbon. Just need more bottles of wine!!!
Nothing wrong with that!
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6 hours ago, Mark W said:
You’re right, the lead foil looks the best!
Is that what you used to connect the intake manifolds on the hemi?
Yessir! I use it, almost exclusively, for straps.
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On 6/28/2025 at 7:21 AM, Pierre Rivard said:
Developing a passion for LSR. Found these 4 Hawk/Testors sealed streamliner kits on eBay, CAD$80 for the lot including shipping from GB. These are very simple toys (rubber band powered) and sold as 1/32 but they are a good fit for 1/25 1950's style streamliners (see size comparison to Ferrari 275P). Essentially these are only body shells and absolutely everything underneath needs to be fabricated. My kind of project!
I will be looking forward to what you will do with one of these , my friend!
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The body's polished out, excepting the left front corner--basically, the left side of the hood is all that's left. Then, I'll look for little missed spots, and fix those.
I also have added .080" half-round, to the top and bottom interior of the windshield. Those'll get bare-metaled. I am close to installing the interior and chassis, into the body! From there, about all that will be left to install will be the bumpers and lights. Thanks for looking!
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I agree with Bill. Bare-Metal is going to be your best bet!
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What Andy said! You're off to a good start!
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4 hours ago, Bills72sj said:
That is my go to as well. It NEVER leaves residue. It is superior in stopping bleed under such as panel lines. I can be left on for MONTHS with no ill effects. The tricky part is using it for straight lines or curves. For accomplishing that, I use 1/16" vinyl tape as an edge guide over the top of the Parafilm. I trim along its edge with a NEW hobby knife and use the thin line tape to remove the unwanted portion. Parafilm also has the benefit of being able be "fudged" into place with a toothpick for very precise placement.
I am going to use that technique with the tape! Great call!
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I have been using Parafilm for masking, the last few years. Use the warmth of your fingers, as you apply it, to seal the edges. It's low-tack and residue-free. It can pretty much be applied, as soon as paint is dry to the touch.
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Yep! That's the original release. I picked up one of the cabovers, a few years ago--before AMT announced the re-release.😅 It has a great deal of sentimental value, to me, anyway.
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I use Krylon satin, or semi-gloss black.
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I use a lot of Krylon. I would recoat it. Most Krylon can be overcoated at any time, according to the can. I've found it to be true! I've completed paintjobs in a day, using Krylon.
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During my recent, involuntary internet "hiatus", I decided that the wheelwells were entirely too wide-open. I cut some half "oval/elliptical" backs from .030" sheet, then used some old long-distance phone cards to cover them. It looks much better than before! Shot clear on the body, today. I'll give it a few days, then give it some light wet sanding and a polish. In the meantime, I can get the windshield bare-metaled. Thanks for looking!
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1 hour ago, johnyrotten said:
Having a lathe opens up a whole other world of options. 👍👍
It really does. I've finally started using both my machines, more often, over the last few years. Mostly just for basic stuff, like this.
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I didn't take photos of the process, but I turned this wheel inner on my Sherline, from 1/2" PVC. It's a great size, to start with! It only takes a little from the outside, and boring the inside (with a bar, not a bit), and a little detail on the lip. I'll be using this, a lot, now, as I always have a difficult time finding proper ones in my stash.
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I have just got a new computer, online, since the crash of my prior unit. I see I have a lot of catching up, to do! Your fuel system pieces are utterly amazing! Well, all your work is, but small, highly detailed parts really turn my crank. Excellent progress, Tim!
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8 hours ago, StevenGuthmiller said:
The type of paint will make a big difference.
You want something that dries slowly.
Steve
Yes. Enamels work best!
Scorpion Gasser
in WIP: Drag Racing Models
Posted
I think that '92 is the best vintage Hemi around. Still. Congratulations on attempting an entire engine! I have yet to attempt that. Nice work!