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Goodwrench3

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Posts posted by Goodwrench3

  1. 8 hours ago, Gary Chastain said:

    Noticed that you use V- blocks for your mockups, I do exactly the same and just purchased a new set of 1-2-3 blocks and a set a precision parallels. They really help set up a mock-up. 

     

    Hi --  what are these ?   " 1-2-3 blocks and a set a precision parallels. "  ??

    Can you send me a link for these ?

    Thanks !

     

  2. This weekend I was able to finally "tack" the hinges in place and make sure the cab tilted with the bumper on and did not have any binding/clearance issues after lowering the cab.  Big win !  I will probably need to move the bumper up a bit when it's finally assembled.

    I also got the front torque rod adjusted so the rear axles are better oriented and the center drive shaft fits right.

    image.png.8f11c6f5f71a0fbdae94d3a412260e3f.png

     

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    image.png.b428c4a5b12c8ad3dc7b35ab096234e3.png

     

    • Like 1
  3. Just now, Rockford said:

    Yes, it's mainly the front pinion angling down that hurts the trained eye, like looking at a left hand thread, just not comfortable with it. 

    Agreed.  It didn't "smell right" to me. 

    I've been trying to find a 1:1 photo of an Astro 95 with a Hendrickson suspension to try to see angle of the axles and the torque rods, but I haven't been able to find any yet.

  4. 5 hours ago, Rockford said:

    You're right about the torque arms, you can see the rear axles are splayed outwards at the top so that the pinion angle is pointing downwards. Not right.

    I think the rear torque arm is probably OK ?   I would expect the rear axle to be "canted" back a bit like it is to make the drive line between the front and rear axle more of a straight line.

  5. This weekend I finally got the rear suspension and axles "tacked" in.  The molding of the Hendrickson beams and the axles is not great -- loads of "slop" all over the place with these.  To try to tighten things up, I had a buddy help me and we drilled the beams and then installed pins through the axle brackets and beams (like the real 1:1 suspension had).  Still some "tweaks" to do, but it's progress.

    It also looks like the front torque rod is a bit long.  The forward axle is too "flat" and that makes the inner drive shaft between the axles not long enough.  So some correction to do there too I think.

    image.png.e213a87448020ea5ae08480029ac38a4.png

    • Like 4
  6. Another area that needs work -- the front crossmember.  This one shouldn't be an open "U" (and of course shouldn't have a pin sticking up to go through the oil pan).   The triangle cut outs are there because of another issue -- to clear the fuel filter on the left side.  But--the crossmember is actually not located correctly because the fuel filter should not be directly on top of the crossmember.  So -- filling this crossmember and removed the pin.  We'll deal with the fuel filter later.

     

     

     

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    • Like 1
  7. I've started this as a club build and thought it might be a good idea to document all of the issues/corrections/fixes etc. that I've run into.

    First issue is the rear springs.  The top of the rear of the spring extends above the mount and this interferes with the box sitting properly on the frame.  It needs to be filed down level with the mounting plate.  In the image, the spring on the left is the standard kit rear spring.  The spring on the right has been filed down as described.  Note also in the 1:1 photo how the spring should have been molded -- note how the top of the spring at the rear is below the top of the mounting plate.

    More to come...

    springs.jpg

    frame.png

    • Like 6
    • Thanks 1
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