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Goodwrench3

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Posts posted by Goodwrench3

  1. Hi all:

    I've been away for a while due to my mother's passing.

    I picked it up again this afternoon and have another question.  If you look at the photo, you can see the connection at the top of the water pump doesn't mate with the fitting for it on the piece labeled "water connections".  I'm guessing I need to file on the left side of the "water connections" piece so that it will tuck under the back of the front  cover and move that piece to the right  ??

     

    waterpump.jpg

  2. 40 minutes ago, doorsovdoon said:

    oh, that's odd. I had a similar issue. The suspension pins went in the holes just fine with me but the right rear leaf spring hanger wouldn't sit tight to the frame because the hole was too low, the rear most wheel would have been lower than the one in front of it, only by a couple of mm. I just cut the pin off and glued the hanger tight to the frame.

    Thanks -- yeah...  typical AMT assembly process...  whack off the pins on parts that have them  😉

    • Like 2
  3. On 1/24/2022 at 11:12 AM, doorsovdoon said:

    I'm building the same truck. I didn't notice the leaning pulleys until I seen this post. I'll have to go fix that on mine! I'm working on the cab height at the moment so if you have any questions on your build just let me know or take a look through the pics on my thread.

    Since you are working on the same kit -- did you have this issue ?

    The right side rear suspension fits fine on the frame rail (since there is only one pin).  But on the left side, the pins in the suspension don't line up at all with the holes in the frame rail.  You can see in my picture that the pin is like 1/2 a hole off.

     

    right_side.jpg

    left_side.jpg

  4. 6 hours ago, peteski said:

    While I'm not a prolific big-rig builder, I'm always on a lookout for good tires.  I bought this set and I'm not too impressed with them. The tread looks ok, but the pattern on the sidewall where it meets the tread looks weird to me, and it extends too far down the sidewall. Are there real tires out there with that type of pattern?  The cross section is also a bit strange (as if they should go on very narrow rims).  But I guess compared to all the really crappy tires that have been included with some kits, these aren't half bad.

    My other gripe is the lack of any info molded into the sidewalls. I understand that there are issues with licensing, but why not just put some generic info like the type and size of the tire.  The blank sidewalls aren't very realistic.

    My all time favorite truck tires are the real-rubber Michelin X tires included in the Revell Can-Do wrecker (and likely other kits).  Everything on those looks very realistic.

    The Moebius 1:25 Big Rig Wheel and Tire Set also includes very nice tires. Those tires have nice tread, sidewalls with lettering on them, and a good looking cross section.

     

    I agree the Moebius tires are nice -- but they really aren't what I would call "period correct" for 1970's era cab over trucks.  They are pretty much more "modern" tires.  Of course, while we're on the subject of gripes...  the AMT kits always have 10 what I would call "steer" tires.  The don't have 8 "drive" tread tires and 2 "steers".

  5. I've also learned this as far as which was a more common size (10.00-20 vs 11.00-20) in the mid-1970s:

    "10.00x20 was the most common tire tire in the US for nearly three decades. 11.00 may have had a higher GVW rating over a 10.00, for one reason "

    also --

    "10/20 would be period correct for 1970's. 11/20 would be correct for vocational trucks. dumps low boys etc."

     

  6. 10 minutes ago, 37 caddy said:

    AMT tires are horrible?,years ago the tires that came with the MPC kits were the best,they came in the Mack kits the DM600 and the DM800,they were a softer type of rubber and fit nice and flush to the edge of the rim.You should have seen the tires that came with the Ertl kits,they were a 2 piece setup and were a shiny plastic type of rubber,later on when Ertl bought out MPC they started to use the better tires in their kits..I always used the fatter tires if i had any to spare,they just looked so much better.I cant explain why they use different tires in the kits today,must be the extra cost?. harvey

     

    RE:   "the tires that came with the Ertl kits,they were a 2 piece setup and were a shiny plastic type of rubber,"  --    yes !   I built an ERTL Transtar F-4270 kit with those two-piece tires !

    I have learned just a short while ago that in my photo, the tire on the left is actually a "10.00-20".  The tire on the right is marked "11.00-20".   So the inside diameter (20) is the same, but the sidewall height is different (10.00 vs. 11.00).   So I guess both are correct as far as scale size, but they do actually represent different tire "sizes".

     

  7. Hi all:

    Can someone explain why the tire sizes are so much different in some of the AMT 1/25 truck kits ?   In my photo, on the left is a tire from the recent Round 2 re-pop GMC "Miller Beer" Astro 95 kit.  On the right, that tire is from the Round 2 re-pop of the Kenworth K-123 cabover.  Supposedly they are both 20" tires -- but the diameter and width are very different.

    I'm wondering from a scale perspective -- which is closer to scale ?   One of them is either far smaller than scale or the other is far larger.  

    Thanks !

    tires.jpg

  8. I've started on this kit, and fairly soon into it I've hit a block that I'm not sure what needs to be done to correct it.  

    This is the Detroit Diesel 8V-71 (I think it's the same engine as in the Pete 352 kit).

    In the photo, I'm holding the parts in place per the locations on the instructions to test fit everything.  You can see that there is quite an "angle" on the belt and pulley assembly that obviously isn't right.

    Anyone had this issue  ?

     

    belts.jpg

  9. 17 minutes ago, Merkur XR4Ti said:

    I was falling into this trap as well, then decided I was only going to build for myself and for the shelf (ie not perfect and not super-detailed). It was hard at first but now I'm happy I let go of the anxiety of feeling my kits weren't good enough. They're great to me.

    Amen.   I build my "shelf queens" and they look darn good sitting there in the family room to me.  I get far more enjoyment out of seeing more of them built and displayed on my shelf than having "perfect" builds.  They look much better than sitting in their shrink-wrapped boxes on the shelves in the basement!

    • Like 1
  10. 13 hours ago, Tuffy's Garage said:

    Old topic I know but I am trying to do the same thing as well tired of staring at close to 500 kits and either afraid to build them because they won't look as good as so and so's or because something isn't perfect. I too don't build for shows it takes the fun out of the build for me. I do like the NNL events 

    Yeah this is the double-edge sword that the internet has created.  Now we see all of these "perfect" builds and we become afraid to build anything because we are afraid it won't be as good as those we see posted on facebook, etc.   As soon as we are worried about whether it will look as good as so-and-so's build, we're building for the wrong reason (in my opinion).  If you are building for someone else's approval, it's not going to be much fun -- at least it's not for me.  Doing that "forced" 30-day build broke me out of the rut.  I still struggle with it, but I just finish whatever I start and learn from the build.  I can improve on the next one -- but at least I *finished* one.  We won't get better with our skills unless we build.  And if we don't build, we can't expect to get better.

     

    • Like 1
  11. On 12/28/2021 at 8:16 PM, DRIPTROIT 71 said:

    If you will notice the dual fuel filter set up is just mounted to a plate that could be  mounted most anywhere, sometimes even the frame. Most of the old cabover KWs that I find reference pictures for don’t have any filters in this area, so most likely they were mounted low enough to be hidden by the frame.

    29436C5D-0729-48F7-8FA2-9DAA4EC9D68D.png.d7c8d4d38867bcb11049903deda2c45f.png

    You could always do like I did on the last two of these that I built and put a Detroit in it.😀

    Thanks for the info.

    Yeah I haven't had much luck in finding pictures of 1:1 KW cabovers where you could see the left side of the engine clearly.

    From everything I've been told, the one place the fuel filters would NOT be mounted is on the side of the aftercooler (as the AMT instructions show).

    Thanks

     

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