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Goodwrench3

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Posts posted by Goodwrench3

  1. 39 minutes ago, espo said:

    Great looking finishes. Alway felt NASCAR cheated Mark Martin got out of the championship when the docked the team for what they called an illegal carb. plate and took points from him as well. 

    Kind of reminds me of the comments in the garage about Elliott's Coors T-bird  "That thing is so narrow it needs a kickstand to keep it from tipping over"    ?

     

    • Haha 1
  2. Along the same lines -- question for this kit for me.

    I'm working on the same kit and I'm currently scratching my head as I look at the kit instructions.  In step 3 where the frame is assembled, you have 4 cross members.  If you look at the drawing of the assembled frame in step 7, it shows ** 6 ** cross members.  But nowhere else prior step 7 are the two forward-most cross members shown in step 7 in the instructions before that.   Plus, the location of the other 4 on the rails isn't the same in the step 7 drawing as in step 3 !

    IMG-2783.JPG

    IMG-2784.JPG

  3. Thanks for posting those frame pictures.  I'm working on the same kit and I'm currently scratching my head as I look at the kit instructions.  In step 3 where the frame is assembled, you have 4 cross members.  If you look at the drawing of the assembled frame in step 7, it shows ** 6 ** cross members.  But nowhere else prior step 7 are the two forward-most cross members shown in step 7 in the instructions before that.   Plus, the location of the other 4 on the rails isn't the same in the step 7 drawing as in step 3 !

     

    IMG-2783.JPG

    IMG-2784.JPG

  4. Finally working on getting the frame glued.   Made a "frame jig" to make sure I get it square, flat, and true.  The frame always makes me nervous because I've had some where one rail "leads" the other and then I ended up with rear axles that "dog tracked" or the cab tilting and not landing square on the rear supports, etc.    I needed something to help me get 'em square and true.

     

     

    IMG-2764.thumb.JPG.856612627e6a8130fe69075f9c401e6f.JPG

  5. Hi all:

    I've been away for a while due to my mother's passing.

    I picked it up again this afternoon and have another question.  If you look at the photo, you can see the connection at the top of the water pump doesn't mate with the fitting for it on the piece labeled "water connections".  I'm guessing I need to file on the left side of the "water connections" piece so that it will tuck under the back of the front  cover and move that piece to the right  ??

     

    waterpump.jpg

  6. 40 minutes ago, doorsovdoon said:

    oh, that's odd. I had a similar issue. The suspension pins went in the holes just fine with me but the right rear leaf spring hanger wouldn't sit tight to the frame because the hole was too low, the rear most wheel would have been lower than the one in front of it, only by a couple of mm. I just cut the pin off and glued the hanger tight to the frame.

    Thanks -- yeah...  typical AMT assembly process...  whack off the pins on parts that have them  ?

    • Like 2
  7. On 1/24/2022 at 11:12 AM, doorsovdoon said:

    I'm building the same truck. I didn't notice the leaning pulleys until I seen this post. I'll have to go fix that on mine! I'm working on the cab height at the moment so if you have any questions on your build just let me know or take a look through the pics on my thread.

    Since you are working on the same kit -- did you have this issue ?

    The right side rear suspension fits fine on the frame rail (since there is only one pin).  But on the left side, the pins in the suspension don't line up at all with the holes in the frame rail.  You can see in my picture that the pin is like 1/2 a hole off.

     

    right_side.jpg

    left_side.jpg

  8. 6 hours ago, peteski said:

    While I'm not a prolific big-rig builder, I'm always on a lookout for good tires.  I bought this set and I'm not too impressed with them. The tread looks ok, but the pattern on the sidewall where it meets the tread looks weird to me, and it extends too far down the sidewall. Are there real tires out there with that type of pattern?  The cross section is also a bit strange (as if they should go on very narrow rims).  But I guess compared to all the really crappy tires that have been included with some kits, these aren't half bad.

    My other gripe is the lack of any info molded into the sidewalls. I understand that there are issues with licensing, but why not just put some generic info like the type and size of the tire.  The blank sidewalls aren't very realistic.

    My all time favorite truck tires are the real-rubber Michelin X tires included in the Revell Can-Do wrecker (and likely other kits).  Everything on those looks very realistic.

    The Moebius 1:25 Big Rig Wheel and Tire Set also includes very nice tires. Those tires have nice tread, sidewalls with lettering on them, and a good looking cross section.

     

    I agree the Moebius tires are nice -- but they really aren't what I would call "period correct" for 1970's era cab over trucks.  They are pretty much more "modern" tires.  Of course, while we're on the subject of gripes...  the AMT kits always have 10 what I would call "steer" tires.  The don't have 8 "drive" tread tires and 2 "steers".

  9. I've also learned this as far as which was a more common size (10.00-20 vs 11.00-20) in the mid-1970s:

    "10.00x20 was the most common tire tire in the US for nearly three decades. 11.00 may have had a higher GVW rating over a 10.00, for one reason "

    also --

    "10/20 would be period correct for 1970's. 11/20 would be correct for vocational trucks. dumps low boys etc."

     

  10. 10 minutes ago, 37 caddy said:

    AMT tires are horrible?,years ago the tires that came with the MPC kits were the best,they came in the Mack kits the DM600 and the DM800,they were a softer type of rubber and fit nice and flush to the edge of the rim.You should have seen the tires that came with the Ertl kits,they were a 2 piece setup and were a shiny plastic type of rubber,later on when Ertl bought out MPC they started to use the better tires in their kits..I always used the fatter tires if i had any to spare,they just looked so much better.I cant explain why they use different tires in the kits today,must be the extra cost?. harvey

     

    RE:   "the tires that came with the Ertl kits,they were a 2 piece setup and were a shiny plastic type of rubber,"  --    yes !   I built an ERTL Transtar F-4270 kit with those two-piece tires !

    I have learned just a short while ago that in my photo, the tire on the left is actually a "10.00-20".  The tire on the right is marked "11.00-20".   So the inside diameter (20) is the same, but the sidewall height is different (10.00 vs. 11.00).   So I guess both are correct as far as scale size, but they do actually represent different tire "sizes".

     

  11. Hi all:

    Can someone explain why the tire sizes are so much different in some of the AMT 1/25 truck kits ?   In my photo, on the left is a tire from the recent Round 2 re-pop GMC "Miller Beer" Astro 95 kit.  On the right, that tire is from the Round 2 re-pop of the Kenworth K-123 cabover.  Supposedly they are both 20" tires -- but the diameter and width are very different.

    I'm wondering from a scale perspective -- which is closer to scale ?   One of them is either far smaller than scale or the other is far larger.  

    Thanks !

    tires.jpg

  12. I've started on this kit, and fairly soon into it I've hit a block that I'm not sure what needs to be done to correct it.  

    This is the Detroit Diesel 8V-71 (I think it's the same engine as in the Pete 352 kit).

    In the photo, I'm holding the parts in place per the locations on the instructions to test fit everything.  You can see that there is quite an "angle" on the belt and pulley assembly that obviously isn't right.

    Anyone had this issue  ?

     

    belts.jpg

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