Helipilot16

George sent me an incredible gift which I recieved today. When he read my "doldrum" post, he told me he would send me something "I might know about". WOW!!!!! What a gift! it was a 1/24 model of a Hughes 500 MD helicpter. This a/c is a later version of the one shown in my avatar. I had no idea anyone had built a 1/24 version of the helicopter. I have two 1/32 models which I will build into copies of the ones I flew in VN. The new one, since it matches my car models in size, will be built into a civilian 500 D. I plan on painting it with my first fade paint job. The amazing thing is, he did this without expecting anything in return. He should watch his mail.

Check on Ebay. There is someone selling them almost constantly.

I have been having a rough time lately getting inspired to build. I have about 20 started projects and only 6 finished. I'm going to spend tomorrow organizing my room in hopes that will restart me. I want to finish two or three more before NNL West.

The ROG Jag is not a D type, but an SS, which was a roadgoing version of the car.

Mine is a motorized one from 1976. The only parts I'll be using are the top half of the body and the seat. The rest will come from the Revell SS.

Absolutely stunning! I might just get me one of these if one becomes available on Ebay. Great building skills are shown on this one.

I have all these kits except the Mercedes. I will build my D Jag using parts from the Lindberg kit on the Revell SS.

Here is mine. I built it out of 3/8" plywood and 2x2s. I lined it with clear shelf paper. I used a cheap wire shelf and lazy susan to mount my models on. I used two under shelf lights on the sides of the booth. Below is shown my blower and ducting. I used a Toro weed blower, which pulls through a filter in the bottom of the booth. It pushes out a dryer vent to the outside. I mounted my airbrush hangers and manifold tothe front of the lower baffle, which channels all the air in around the subject model.

Because the two colors are very closely related. Gold is basically a very pale metallic green.

Welcome. I think you will find this is a pretty friendly place, with very little conflict.

Just a word of caution for those who care about safety; the only respirator rated for urethanes is a supplied air respirator. These can cost from $500 on up, and they require a dedicated compressor.

The pump would mount on the passenger side of the engine up against the pan rail. The drive is a belt off of the front of the crankshaft.

Hi-Lux is the name Toyota gave to their small truck.

Have you noticed that every thing you look for is in the last place you look for it?

Check the tips section for how I built the new hinges.

This is a tutorial on how to build hinges which will allow the door to swing in at the hinge side. 1. Here are the materials needed; a short piece of 1/6 brass tube; a slightly longer piece of 1/32 brass rod; some small pieces of sheet styrene, and one door skin. 2. Carefully cut about a half inch of the tubing and about one inch of the rod. Insert the rod into the tubing and bend the rod on each side of the tubing 3. Bend the rod back at 90 degrees about 3/16 back from the previous bend and 90 degrees to it. 4. Glue the tubing vertically near the hinge side of the door skin. The amount of the door skin that will move into the body will be set by the distace you glue the tubing from the back of the door 5. Glue on enough sheet styrene to build the wire hanger out from the inside of the body. 6. Glue the bent rod to the sheet styrene. Leave enough room for adjustment. Here are two views of the completed hinge.

I am currently preparing a tutorial on how to do this. It will appear in about a half hour.

I bought one of those kits as part of a junkyard some time ago. I'll eventually build it very similar to yours. I have 4 of the Revell '48 convertibles. I've built one of them. Nice start on yours.

I recently had a small setback and have taken advantage of it to improve the car. I painted it transparent Oriental Blue over silver. It came out great. After it was gassed out, I coated it with Future. When the Future came out badly, I used ammonia to remove it. So far, so good. Then I decided to add another coat of blue. The paint immediately wrinkled up. Apparently there was a little bit of ammonia left on the body, causing a bad reaction. It immediately went into the purple pond. After the paint was gone, I went ahead and removed all the Squadron putty. I replaced it with melted plastic. It's much better looking and far stronger. I'm now in the process of sanding and smoothing. I redid the door hinges to make the rear of the doors swing into the body. I'll do a tutorial on how I did it when I do the second door.

Oil rich Bahrain can certainly afford Gran Prix racing. Neither Nepal nor Kenya have ever been mentioned as a place for F1.

The early valve covers have never been produced in a model as far as I know. All valve covers on Olds engines produced are aftermarket units, anyway.

The earliest engines (through about 1954, if I remember correctly) used two bolts in the center of the valve covers; all later ones used bolts on the perimeter of the valve covers. As for the transmissions, they are poor renditions of an early Ford box.

I have a GTA Junior which I will sell, as I have no plans to build it. Make me an offer.

It's an all plastic curbside, with no extras.

The latest rage seems to be 1/24 scale dragstrips. Do a Google search.