Chariots of Fire

I couldn't hold Gerald Wingrove's Xacto knife! Compared to him I am just messin' around. Thanks for the kind words just the same. Charlie

Here's a pic of all of the pieces so far. Still got the hoisting mechanism to build.

Been working on the running gear and finally got the transmission and parking brake assembly done. The final sequence will be for the hoisting mechanism and then I can paint the frame for final assembly.

Got a bit more done on the P-A. Painted the body and have begun work on the pedals, gear shift and hand brake. The real truck is in the background photo in the third shot.

What a neat thing! I'll have to try the Michael's store at Wareham Crossing!

I first drew out the frame shape on paper and then transferred the shape to a piece of strip brass. Since the frame is not the same depth throughout its length I had to solder the flanges on separately. I did make the flanges continuous by bending them where the frame depth changed. The only non-hand tools I have used so far is a drill press. All of the other parts and pieces such as the piece you mention were made by cutting out shapes with a dremel fitted with a cutting wheel. Thank goodness for a variety of tubing and strip stock that is available. Pieces such as the tow hooks on the front were made with brass rod and brass strip stock which were soldered together. The front axle is made of strip stock also with the top and bottom flanges soldered in place. The ends are made with brass tubing of different sizes that fit one inside the other. A number of #90 brass nuts and bolts have also been used to hold springs in place as well as the turning points on the front axle. Cleanup of the brass stock has been done with the dremel and cutting wheel, an assortment of files and a K&S tubing cutter.

Not everybody likes scratch building or the amount of time it takes to get something like this done. I started out building out of the box just like most modelers do but in order to build something other than the box stuff it kind of forces you go look elsewhere. I have done kitbashing and making small parts for fire apparatus which is really my first love. There are only so many times you can build an AMT LaFrance before it gets a bit boring and there is precious little else out there except for the few Italeri kits and the Trumpeter ALF. My interest is more in the older pieces anyway. It all boils down to some experience and being willing to experiment a bit. What really got me started on the brass is the rather poor results I had making a truck frame in plastic. Although I was able to complete the project the fact that the frame was so fragile it gave me fits along the way. Kit frames are extra thick on purpose for that very reason. So I decided to make the frame from brass stock that would be rigid and present a good base for locating and attaching other pieces. It just began to grow from there. HaH! I tend to ramble on but it's fun to discuss with other modelers!

It's been a great learning experience, Win. The real truck was a joy to see and work around while I gathered photos and measurements. These old trucks have so much detail that is exposed to see that it just has to be included. I have to remind myself that even tho' the truck is over 80 years old there is still a lot of craftsmanship and design that went into building it. Surely the designers did not have the sophistication that we do to day to get the most strength out of a minimum of materials but that is what makes it so interesting. Everything is just big! An amusing thing also is the builders plate that is on the frame. It states that if the truck exceeds 15 MPH when fully loaded, it voids the warantee! My last trip to the museum will be to gather details for building the mechanical hoisting equipment that raises the body. It is cool!

Now that is nice! Clean build!!

Thanks for the kind words, Ed. It's been a fun project so far.

Those are totally awesome builds, Les. Glad you posted!

Not embossed at all. That is wire that was soldered on the outside. I wish I had enough knowledge and experience to emboss it. The effect might have been better.

Since my last post which was a while ago I've made some progress on the truck. Engine is now complete and temporarily installed and the cab is finally painted. Latest is the body which is complete except for some rivets on the tailgate. Still to go is the running gear and the mechanical parts to raise and lower the body. Also have the gear shift and brake levers to do in the cab. But it is coming along, slowly but surely.

There's been a bit more work on the Pierce Arrow since last posted. The cab paint is now complete. The interior dash has to be done and then I can mount the two doors. The engine is finished and can be installed. Just have to adjust the exhaust manifold for the pipe. The engine was made of plastic with Specialties and Miniatures resin bolt heads, brass wire and a manifold from the AMT ALF Detroit diesel engine. Was just the right size. Here it sits in the truck awaiting the radiator hoses. That will come later after the frame is painted. The paint is done on the cab and hood. Hood latches will be added after the cowl is secured. The cab has been secured with angle brackets soldered to the frame and drilled out for bolts and nuts. Next will be to complete the running gear, brake rods, etc.

The scale is 1/25. Most of the build is brass; frame, springs, front axle, hood. The cab, gas tank and radiator are plastic. Eventually it will have a dump body but I need some detail measurements and photos to do that part.

For several months I've been working on this 7 ton dump that Pierce Arrow built in 1928. Still a ways to go with the body, lifting mechanism and engine. The frame will be painted black like the radiator and running boards. Doors need to be hung and painted as well.

The Monogram Mack and Aurora ALF would look good together. The Aurora is a much better model than the Lindberg in my opinion.

I don't think it was, Tim. I have several unopened kits of both the red and yellow versions as well as the Chicago piece and they are on right. This latest reissue is the only one I have seen where the wheels are backwards. Does make you wonder, though what people are thinking who put these box art pieces together!

The pump is scratch built. The ends of the hard suction are aluminum tubing with bits of brass for the handles. I just painted them chrome silver.

None that I know of. Think you would have to scratch build one.

I've been working on a Chevy Fire Dept. Tanker for a while now. It's almost done. Just a few more details. Charlie Rowley (Chariots of Fire)

I'm looking to build a model of a 1928 Pierce Arrow 5 ton dump. Anyone an idea of where I could look to get frame drawings or other technical pics and details for the drive train and engine? I have some photos of the truck from a museum but the data would be very helpful.

Rick: There is nothing available that I know of that would fit your needs. The W300 headlights would have to be cut away to clear the grill opening. You would then need to scratch build the new grill. Tom has a 1968 W500 resin casting that would probably be closer to what you want. The only difference is in the width of the fender flairs. Here is a pic of the one I did.

Charlie: Don't know if you found your truck cab or not but I did two resin cabs of Dodges. One is a 1966 W300 and the other is a 1968 W500. Both are available from Tom Coolidge. His e-mail is Promolite2000@aol.com if you are interested.