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Everything posted by coopdad
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Yes, great job! Who made the kit? I assume the wheels are not original to the kit (they work perfectly though). They look like the ones that come with Model King's 79 Bronco. John
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Weathering and Rusting with Acrylics!
coopdad replied to RyanSilva's topic in Tips, Tricks, and Tutorials
Awesome write up! Can't wait to try it. I would love to see you do a write up also about how you weathered the wood on your '64 Chevy pickup. John -
Yes, Knoxville! (Go Vols!) John
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Speaking of weather undersides... I ran across this site today... EXCELLENT! http://straightlinemodeler.org/paintblack.html John
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British Racing Green
coopdad replied to coopdad's topic in General Automotive Talk (Trucks and Cars)
Man, beautiful builds... sure, beautiful shapes in a beautiful color, but still excellent craftsmanship! Now that we have some really good choices for BRG, I am going to divert the topic as, well, it is my thread I originally wanted to paint the car (Triumph TR3) the factory apple green used on works rally cars. I thought there would be no way to find that in a can so I will (probably) be going with BRG. But, might as well ask, anyone seen anything close to that in a can? Thanks again, John p.s. Bob, where did you find that lightweight E type kit? Again, beautiful! -
Guys, I am looking for spray paint (in rattle can) of one of the darker shades of British Racing Green, like used on Jags and Triumphs in early 60's. Tamiya has two listed: Racing Green and British Green but I am unclear which is the dark one. Has anyone got photos? Are there other brands I should look for? Thanks all, John
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After hardned, does Yellow Blue putty or milliputt become close to the hardness (for lack of a better word) of the styrene itself? That would be ideal... a clay that ends up exactly like styrene in its carving and sanding properties. I am scratch-building a Mater of the future and sculpting is the best description I can think of to describe making lips and teeth. Thanks, John
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I knew I could rely on you guys. Thanks all for the info. I will head to the LHS this weekend and grab some milliputt. I hope to post pix of my "sculpture" very soon. Thanks again, John
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Guys, I am looking to do a little "free form" sculpting on one of my current builds and wondered it someone could suggest a product. I have thought Bondo would work but it might it will be a little hard to sand after it is dry (I assume). I am looking for something like Play-Doe. Has anyone tried Scupley? John
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Holy Hell This is COOL!!!!!
coopdad replied to Joe Handley's topic in General Automotive Talk (Trucks and Cars)
A sewing machine motor! -
Scary things about this hobby.
coopdad replied to Phil Patterson's topic in General Automotive Talk (Trucks and Cars)
The flat black mole is hysterical!! Talking about the Xacto's reminds me of my days back in college. The art department at UT had the most injuries of any school, even more than the athletic department. I too took off the end of my thumb cutting thick matt board... 25 years ago. It hasn't happened since, knock on wood. John -
I Want to Make Resin Tires
coopdad replied to coopdad's topic in Car Aftermarket / Resin / 3D Printed
I have heard that Alumilite's Casting kit is very good for a first-timer like myself. Anyone have a good source with a GREAT price? John -
Guys, After about 6 months of trying to find tires for one of my models, I have given up and decided to make them myself. I have read extensively many posts on numerous websites and how-tos about resin casting so I understand the overall concept (but not yet tried it.) My question is: should I try to cast the tire as a complete unit or in two halfs that I glue together after? Reason I ask is the tires will have a pretty aggressive tread pattern (BFGoodrich Mud Terrains) so the possibility of not being able to get out all the bubbles may be a problem. Thanks for all your suggestions, John
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Although I have been using Illustrator for years so find it easy to use, the people that I know that have bought it recently, gave up trying to learn it. The way you use tools is a strange concept that is difficult for some to ever grasp. It takes a lot of practice and if you do not have real projects that have to be done you will say heck with it. You don't drag a pencil to draw a curved line like you would in real life or in Photoshop, you click a starting point, drag the line's tangent, click the final location and drag the final point's tangent. But, it does make for very clean artwork that is scaleable to ANY size without loss of quality. John
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I am work as fast as my fat fingered hands will allow to try to have my model ready. I will definitely be there, either to show or spend money on next year's build. We need more of these shows in East TN! John
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Literally! I was sitting on the pot when I noticed it right there in the floor in front of me!
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Wonderful find on the bathroom floor a few days ago! Zipper teeth from blue jeans look a lot like battery lugs! And being metal the can be "squeezed " to paper clip terminals. Another shot a little clearer. Of course, there are many sizes of zippers meaning many scales are available. John
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Hey, all, I recently started modeling again after a long hiatus and was amazed at how far the hobby has progressed in the past 20 years. As editor for Bronco Driver and Jeep Junkie magazines I thought it would make a great article. I want to have a story in both magazines dealing with the current state of modeling (how it has changed since we were kids), the interesting aspects of aftermarket parts (resin, wheels/tires, etc.) and how the creative builders that take their kits beyond the "straight out of the box" build. So, I am looking for photos of Broncos and Jeeps to run with the stories. Ideally, I would like to see models that have many parts like lifts, engine wiring, etc... stuff that did not come "in the box." For the Broncos, any year is welcome. For the Jeeps I would like to have pix of more than just CJs and Wrangers (but they are still welcome if they are really special). Questions I have been asked: 1. what poses?: any and all. But I would like at least one full body shot and one detail photo of an area that was obviously hand-fabbed or has aftermarket parts (resin or tires/wheels from another kit) 2. Scale? I have not really restricted to a certain scale but think 1/24-25 would be easier to photograph so they should come out better in the mag. 3. under construction models?: I would also prefer finished models as the story is for 1:1 owners not modelers. They would (probably) not be as excited as us about all the details of what goes into the process. 4. deadline?: as soon as possible. I would like to get the story in the upcoming issue of Jeep Junkie which goes to press at the end of November... so by the first/second week of Nov. Bronco Driver goes mid December. And lastly, photos: Send the biggest, most original (uncropped, unedited) photos possible. I can crop/lighten here. Be sure to include your name so I can give you credit in the magazine. And a list of what you added to the kit (either fabbed by our or purchased aftermarket) would be nice to include also. Questions, feel free to reply to this message, PM me or email me found on the web address below. Thank you in advance, John Goethert http://www.magazinepublisher.com/john.html
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Wonderful work! I too am working on a Baja truck (Bronco in my case). Where did you get your wheels/tires? John
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After taking at least 10 years off from modeling I am ready to jump ban in feet first. My first project back will be converting a Model King Bronco kit into a Baja racer with hand-built frame, etc. So my question is can anyone recommend companies that sell larger tires/wheels, Ford 351W engine parts, racing related parts (seats, shocks, etc.). I gotta say much has changed in the past 10 years in the hobby... some good (the internet seems to be the biggest), some bad (the lack of models available at Mortar & Brick stores). Thanks in advance and look forward to learning all the new tips and tricks. John p.s. long time lurker, first post