
dlh
Members-
Posts
81 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Gallery
Everything posted by dlh
-
I masked it with Tamiya tape. No, it stayed put. Maybe I was lucky. From now on, I'll be polishing before BMF.
-
Had my first success with Novus last night. I was so impressed, I stayed up too late and forgot I had an adult beverage open. Clearly my first try with Novus was on paint not fully cured, and I didn't rub long enough. It's almost like magic as you feel the polish dry and the mirror finish appear before your eyes. I was also able to sand out some dust specks (some severe) and polish; you can't even see them any more. One can, however polish through the finish down to the primer. (lesson learned) Don't know where I'd be without advice from this forum. Thanks also to Lonewolf for advice to polish first, then foil. Polishing next to BMF started to leave a black color on the cloth (not a good thing). So I masked over the BMF I had on it and polished around it. Definitely not an ideal polishing, but I didn't want to redo the foil. Another body is curing so more time to do it right. Beginners take heart, Bare Metal Foil and wet sanding and polishing DOES work. Thanks again for all the advice from this forum. Dave
-
gauge lenses over decals - epoxy or Testors clear cement
dlh replied to dlh's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
and I have that too. Thanks. -
The Shelby Cobra body is painted with enamel (one coat so far). The finish now is a nearly perfect wet coat. Don't think I'll clearcoat it. I'm planning to use Meguiar's ScratchX, Deep Crystal Polish, and Deep Crystal Carnauba Wax. I'm hoping for a more "old-school" paint finish without clearcoat. I may be completely off base here, but can I add decals (those Cobra Stripes) between Polish and Wax? Maybe I HAVE to clearcoat it over the decals if I Polish and Wax. I definitely want the stripes, so what are my options? I really doubt those decals would stick over Carnauba wax. Thanks Dave
-
Oh I know, of course. I love working on tiny stuff, especially if it's tiny and shiny. Probably should have been born a racoon.
-
Nope, that's the truth. My fingers were busy modifying mechanical stuff of RC cars and RC helis, but not model building. I just read a lot here and tried techniques as I went along. There's enough in this forum to do it if you read and are obsessive ;-) Dave
-
I didn't like the wheels in this kit. That spoked wheel wasn't the one in 1977, It was the one pictured. The kit called for silver on the wheels and I just did that. I might try a matte silver or maybe a wash? I have another unbuilt kit. So someday I might revisit this. I bet someone makes a photo etched wheel that looks like the one pictured. Thanks for the ideas. Dave
-
Thanks for all of the positive comments. Gives me confidence and some new ideas for improvement. The last model I built was when I was 12-14 years old. My brother and I built glue bombs. Quite literally, some we would load up with model glue and light on fire. (kids, models, model glue, and fire - it doesn't get any better) We would build models at one sitting in several hours, never painted any; not sure there were model sprays back then. It would deplete my allowance just buying one model each week. I remember building this one. It was all I could do to get the folding roof to work. Dave
-
Yup, I'm an old fart.
-
Soooo, there are many flaws and I've learned a lot, mostly from here. The color is the original Reseda Green like the 320i that I owned; many problems with trying to spray urethane automotive finish and clear coat. The front grill is a Molotow pen (painted with a brush). The other chrome is BMF. I tried the Molotow pen on some ruined bodies, but think the BMF looks better on chrome trim. I butchered the rear end; too much build-up of the urethane clear ruined the black center trim. I used extra fine embossing powder for the carpet in a color called watering can. You can't see that in the photos. All comments are appreciated (yes, the brutally honest ones too) My next model is a Cobra, just started the body. I think this one will look a little better, but I'm really just a beginner. Dave
-
Perfect. Thanks. Just what I needed. Dave
-
I'm just starting a Monogram Shelby Cobra 427 S/C. I've chosen a body color. What color should I paint the underside (inside) of the body? (since it will be seen) Thanks, Dave
-
Carpet will now be replaced with gray (Watering Can from Ranger)
-
Those seat panels in my 320i were cloth with vinyl outsides. I'm hoping to discover a way to match the appearance of cloth seats on a model. Anyone? Bueller? . . . Bueller?
-
No pics yet, still working on it. The carpet in my 320i was gray. I just found some gray embossing powder. So I'm going to try that on a tub from another one of the 320i models I have. I agree, the carpet here looks awfully bright (gawdy).
-
Always appreciate advice while I'm learning. I was a little suspicious of the Testers Primer as soon as I started spraying the urethane color coat. I'll go with Tamiya paint on my next model. I've used Tamiya paints on the inside of lexan RC car bodies with great results. That's a different animal though. I have two rattle cans of Tamiya fine surface primer. Plan to decant some of that. Do you think Duplicolor and Plastikote are better than Tamiya primer? Thanks
-
So much help here. Great forum. I tried yesterday spraying soda bottles and it's starting to look better. I used an Iwata Eclipse and lowered the pressure. I think, as you said, that the base color was attacking the primer. I tried samples with and without primer. The samples without primer looked better. The paint I'm using is not a 2K. The more I look at the first body, the less I like it. The panel lines are too deep. The build up is too high. Like you said, looks like it's dipped in syrup. I'm going to try one more body without primer and if it doesn't work out, I'll switch to regular enamel and not worry about exact color match. The primer I used was Testors enamel. Maybe if I had bought the primer from Express Paint, I'd see better results, but the paint and clear was expensive enough. Still, this is my first model in 40 years, so I'm a beginner with lots to learn. Thanks again, Dave
-
#3 tip
-
Well, much to think about. Thanks for the detailed response. I'll practice on some soda bottles before shooting another body. Would shooting at lower pressure be a good place to start? Maybe this exact color matching requiring urethane is beyond my beginner's technique. Thanks again for the explanation. Dave
-
I tried using Pro Tec powder coat for the seat upholstery. It's much much finer than embossing powder .The Pro Tec is what I used to paint lead jigs for fishing. That's what's on the two seats on the right. The two on the left are sprayed with flat (just on the center panels which were the only cloth parts on the Recaro seat I had in the BMW I'm trying to copy). The powder coat does not stick to the Elmers very well at all and, as you can see, is very uneven. It leaves sort of a velvet looking finish. I've decided to go with the flat black for now, but I think this stuff has promise, maybe sifted over wet paint. I made my own sifters by Dremelling out measuring spoons and epoxying fine mesh I removed from condenser microphones I rebuilt. I am happy with the carpet. I couldn't find gray so I mixed black and silver. It's a little "pimpish" but once inside the body it's less gaudy.
-
This is my first model, trying to replicate a 320i I owned. I primed with Testors white primer and sanded. The paint is from Express Paints and is an automotive urethane with a clear coat from the same company. I saw the orange peel after the second color coat, but the directions said not to sand before clear coat. The roof has more primer after I tried (and failed) to fill the sunroof. The orange peel seems to be all on the color coat and not in the clear coat. The side view has less primer and less orange peel. I didn't sand the engine compartment at all that that seems to have no orange peel. I shot it with a Paasche H @ 35 lb. The paint was decanted from a spray can and was not thinned. From what I've read, orange peel forms when the paint dries before it has had time to level out. The spoon wasn't primed at all, just lightly sanded before painting, and clear coating and has no orange peel. This body is a "throw away" after I screwed up the panel lines and the hood. I have three more. Is it possible that multiple coats of primer are drying the color coat too fast? I'm going to spray more spoons with different coats of primer and possibly lowering the pressure. Any thoughts? What would happen if I sprayed the body without primer? Thanks Dave
-
Now that's news to me. Thanks. Dave
-
So you don't get any of that "purplish" look?