dlh

Thanks very much. I'm just a beginner. Loved the thread on your Citroen. Truly a master! Dave

Never thought of that. Glad that someone here knows. Thanks, Dave

I stand corrected. It is a Monogram model. Had to check. Forgot.

Yes it is.

My 4th model in 50 years. I owned a '62 VW bus in red and white, but it wasn't the 23 window one. The fit of the parts on this kit was amazing. It proved challenging to me though especially getting the two tone right. I would love to hear someone's secret to perfect curves in masking tape (or BMF, which was my choice for the red/white border line). I still had trouble with paint buildup near the panel line edges. (MM Fire Red). I have a Revell 1:16 Samba that I'm going to build later. I'll use regular gloss red on that one. My next model in line is a Revell BMW Isetta. I really like that weird little car. Wish I could afford a real one.

My 3rd model in 50 years. I wanted to do a red interior. I was hoping to imitate the fawn beige color but that didn't happen. I did manage to drop the body on carpet while the clear coat was still wet. Started over. This is a Revell model; fit was perfect.

This is an MPC kit and gave me grief getting many part to fit. Lots of options though. This was my first model that I was able to sand and polish a huge dust blob.

My second model in 50 years

Done. I masked with BMF and airbrushed with flat black. Not a great job, but acceptable. I spent more time fiddling with alternatives than it took to just mask and paint. Dave

Yes, it is a lot of work. I guess I was looking for a faster way. (We're not in this hobby for "a fast way", are we.) Dave

Good idea, saved that one. These gaskets are molded into body. The side windows have a well defied edge and look good done with the thinnest Rapidograph (sp?) pen. These roof window gaskets are not as well defined. I'm going to try one tomorrow masking with BMF. Thanks, Dave

This is the Hasegawa Samba. I've tried different ways, including sharpies, ink markers, freehand painting, but I didn't like any of them. I think next I'll try BMF masking. Any other ideas on coloring these? Thanks, Dave

Thanks, this is a great idea. After my Badger craps out I'll use that shaft in a Dremel. (It helps to have two Dremels!) Dave

OK, nevermind. This was clearly a case of "pilot error". It was all about drying time between mist coats and wet coats. There's no substitute for experience and practice.

I tried it on a current build and it seemed to run away from the raised edges. I also tried brushing it on some sprue and it was difficult to cover evenly. I'm probably going to choose another red but I like the color of Fire Red. Thanks Dave

I just finished an MPC '60 Corvette. While it does have 6 different build options, I found that very little of it fit well. I'm still a beginner (after a 50 year hiatus) so it was good practice on modifications. I'll have to have a long think before I buy another MPC. Before that one, I built a Monogram Shelby Cobra 427 S/C. It was better fit than the MPC, but not as good as the Revell BMW 320i that was my first build. I'm now finishing a Revell 1962 Corvette and am extremely impressed with the fit. Every single part fit perfectly. I bought an AMT 53 Corvette and decided not to build it in favor of the Revell version. I bought some PE parts for it assuming it will go together as well as the '62. The cleanest molds I've seen are on the Revell Germany models (next one to build will be a BMW Isetta). Can't wait to start that one. I'm in the middle of a Hasegawa Samba bus. Just finishing the body, but the other parts look very cleanly molded. Just a beginner's $.02.

I don't thin decanted Testors spray colors and they have been fine. The decanted Testors clear enamel looks thinner than the jarred Testors clear, but still thicker than other colors I have decanted. I'm thinking it wouldn't require thinning just like the Testors spray colors. Thanks, Dave

I just ordered one of these downdraft worktables: http://www.micromark.com/MicroLux-Downdraft-Worktable I'll report back on it's effectiveness. You can never have enough toys. Dave

Good idea. Didn't think of that. Thanks. Dave

Some satisfaction knowing I'm not alone. Dave

What a subject title, eh! Is anyone bothered by this? I use a 3m respirator and paint booth when painting. I'm thinking the irritation is from sanding plastic and especially primer. I always wet sand primer but not when cleaning flash from styrene. I thoroughly cleaned my work area yesterday and noticed fine white dust escaping from a new vacuum cleaner bag. I also bought 3m particle masks, but have avoided them because they are so hot. Just more "oldfart" ailments. Dave

Thanks. I thought that would work, but I should ask the experts first. Dave

Thanks. I've been using Tamiya fine white primer.

I've read all posts about masking, using BMF and clearing along the mask line. The model I'm going to build is blue on the bottom and white on the top. I'm going to paint the top first. Should I paint the whole model white, or can I just paint a little past where the mask line will be. I'm going to use an airbrush and thought that could just feather out the white area past the line where the masking will be. Is there any reason not to do it that way? I'm just trying to minimize the paint buildup. Thanks, Dave

I use Wright's on silver and other metals. Good stuff. Never thought of it on models. Thanks