bobss396

Thanks, glad you like it. The grille is a Model Car Garage item, which was a bugger to fold and get a semi-crisp line in the center. I gave it a test fit, sort of folded it a tap and sprung it into place. It fit well enough not to touch it, only tension is holding it in. I tend to do the engines early in the build and spend some time on them. This one came out nice and clean and I'm happy with it. Bob

Oh never! I also have brass studs and nuts for them, they don't show up in the picture. I have CAD drawings for the wheels, maybe I should crank out 200 or so of them? Bob

Well, if I knew how to do it, I'd sure as s--- done it that way! I looked for a FAQ on how to post pictures and came up empty. The next time I get ready to post pictures, I'll have to ask first.

Good deal on the job, nice going. Its a nice feeling when you score big like that. And plumbing is not easy, I've done quite a bit of it and if you do residential work, no 2 houses are the same ever! I wish they'd make me a clunker law offer here in NY. But what are the $3k vouchers good for, Lone Star beer? Bob

Great build James! I saw it over on Fred's forum and the progress was awesome. I had grown up with watching guys like Charlie J and Richie race for real. When I raced, I always stopped by to shoot the breeze with Richie or Jimmy Spencer in the pits. I'm still crushed by the loss of some of the great modified racers, I'm sure Richie would be proud of your build. Bob

Neat trick with the '62 Pontiac upholstery, I'll have to give that a try sometime.

Thanks, the paint is Duplicolor with Tamiya TS-13 clear over it. Both were polished out, yes you can polish metallics. The 427 is from the AMT '65 Ford.

Thanks for the compliments. The seat fabric is from a craft/fabric store. They sell these little samples of cotton prints I suppose for quilts or whatever. It ran me $1.49 and I stuck it on with tacky glue. I folded the edges first and ironed them. The front was easy to lower, used the dropped axle. The rear I had to separate the spring from the rear and do a little surgery then reattach it. Bob

AMT '37 Chevy coupe body on the AMT '34 Modified chassis. Tires are Karl Stark resin, wheels are out of my shop, turned aluminum. The chassis has been shortened a scale 9" to get the engine setback right. http://public.fotki.com/ABehrens/liars_mod...nov2007063.html http://public.fotki.com/ABehrens/liars_mod...nov2007065.html http://public.fotki.com/ABehrens/liars_mod...nov2007068.html

Most impressive! Great work on the dash and color selections. The copper is so hotrod-period correct.

Try it now, I edited it.

Thanks to fellow LIARS member Andy for posting my pix on his Fotki site. I hope the links work, wasn't able to figure out how to get them to open by themselves. Bob http://public.fotki.com/ABehrens/liars_mod...nov2007053.html http://public.fotki.com/ABehrens/liars_mod...nov2007059.html http://public.fotki.com/ABehrens/liars_mod...nov2007061.html http://public.fotki.com/ABehrens/liars_mod...nov2007060.html

I've had lousy luck with Duplicolor white primer, just too thin for my liking. If you want a good white primer, try the Plastikote from Michael's Crafts. It withstands lacquers, it IS my white primer of choice right now. The Tamiya primer should be good for almost anything, but try it on some scrap first. I do this quite often when I have doubts on something new. I have never tried enamel primer under a lacquer paint, and certainly never lacquer over enamel in any shape or form, although some people get away with it, sometimes. Don't confuse the Kustom Kolors paint with the real deal HOK (Black Gold) lacquers. Kustom Kolors is an enamel based product, if they have a primer in the rack that goes with the line of paint, use it. The HOK Black Gold line is lacquer based. I use Duplicolor primer (the big cans are a great value) under it and never have had a problem. I'm a big advocate about getting people to switch to lacquers, which are almost all by now acrylic lacquers due to environmental regulations. It dries harder and faster than enamel, polishes out better (IMHO). Bob

These rods are killing me, yow. Great tutorial on the chassis pinning. I've used everything from brass brads to pieces of paper clip. I tend to have a heavy hand when sanding things so every bit of strength helps. An unsupported joint like that can sag under the weight of the model over time. Bob

Good placement for the front "Z" section, makes the engine installation easier. I would suggest drilling through the added section and into the chassis, insert a piece of wire and CA glue it in place. It makes a much stronger joint. Looks like a great project, post more progress pix! Bob

I read about it on their site, definitely a bummer big time. Super fast service every time, they will be missed. Has anyone offered to step up to take it over? Just a thought. Bob

The tangtang2 name goes back a ways on evilBay. I bought lots of things from them, never had a problem and always paid by money order. Bob

I'm more of a traditional rod builder myself, but those two have character. Post more progress pix! Bob

I see what happened. It is possible to think that this site is an E-Zine site, where everything is in the cyber world and there is no paper. Bob

I also agree with sanding lacquers prior to the soak. I'll even go over the whole thing with 320 grit, but of course stay away from any details that shouldn't be sanded. This lets the stuff get in a lot easier and makes the overall process that much faster.

Guess what, the link might not work so I copied what was posted on the former HH board. The Mapquest map thet comes up in the Google "freeport rec center" search is pretty good. It should be the first hit that comes up. The show is on for 9am-4pm tomorrow in beautiful downtown Freeport, Long Island, NY at the Freeport Recreation Center, 130 E. Merrick Road (aka route 27A), zip code 11520. I would suggest getting directions somewhere online. The best approach and parking is exit M9W (Merrick Road west), get in the extreme left lane at the parkway exit ramp, stay in the left lane on Merrick Road. At the first light (it comes up fast), make a left onto Mill Road (which may or not be marked). The rec center is about a 1/3 mile on your right. For the truly directionally challenged, stick to whatever map site that gets you to 130 E. Merrick Road in one piece, you can enter from there as well.

Spotlight Hobby Link to Show Info. The show is on for tomorrow 11/10 from 9am-4pm. Bring the family, there will be a make & take as well as a coloring contest for the kids. Check out the attached link, hope to see all of you there. Bob

How about the Model Master metallizer line? It comes in jar and spray cans. I find it to be very realistic looking and it comes in a variety of flavors. Bob

Dullcote comes in a spray can too. Just about the only Testors product that I'll use and endorse! Bob

It's all part of the modeling learning curve. I was hesitant to make the jump to lacquer, but when I did I was amazed at how EASY it was to use, my painting got BETTER in a flash. There is way less drama with lacquer . Bob