bobss396

Spotlight Hobby Link to Show Info. The show is on for tomorrow 11/10 from 9am-4pm. Bring the family, there will be a make & take as well as a coloring contest for the kids. Check out the attached link, hope to see all of you there. Bob

How about the Model Master metallizer line? It comes in jar and spray cans. I find it to be very realistic looking and it comes in a variety of flavors. Bob

Dullcote comes in a spray can too. Just about the only Testors product that I'll use and endorse! Bob

It's all part of the modeling learning curve. I was hesitant to make the jump to lacquer, but when I did I was amazed at how EASY it was to use, my painting got BETTER in a flash. There is way less drama with lacquer . Bob

It will probably work, but make up a "test coupon" first. Either a scrap part or some styrene flat stock will work. This saves me lots of headaches when I try something different. Bob

The Testors primer would dry in a dehydrator in about 8 hours. I also agree that avoiding Testors spray paints is sound advice. Bob

I have a theory on ghosting. If you take the trim off with as little stress as possible, the ghosting will be reduced. I take human bites when i xacto it off, resist the urge to take it off in huge hunks and use a sharp blade. I also cycle it in my dehydrator, heat it for a few hours, let it cool by itself. I do 3 cycles of this total. This helps the plastic lose some of the "memory" of what was there. You still may have to prime and sand a few times. Go easy on the first coat of primer, the solvents tend to make the condition worse. Let it cure, sand if needed and do another light coat. I like Duplicolor's primer-sealer myself. I use a lot of lacquers and it works well. After I think that my ghosts are "exorcised", I'll give it a heavy final coat of primer. But do go easy on the color coats. I've had things ghost through the finish coat, days after I painted it! Poof, the ghosts were back. Don't rush it, too many solvents can get through the primer. Good luck, Bob

I use Evergreen stock almost exclusively. For roll cages, I'll either use .080 rod or .093 tubing, .125 is too big for most applications, I've never seen a 3.0" diameter roll cage bar. The neat thing about tubing is that it takes .035 rod up the middle which is great to join sections or peg it into a chassis or floor pan. I use floral wire (from crafts stores) which adds exceptional strength. I radius (fish mouth) the tubing with a small round file and join the pieces with Tenax or Proweld liguid glue. Lay out the roll bars on graph paper which is a big help to keep it squared up. With a little practice, you'll be a pro in no time. Good luck, Bob

Billy, I hope you can get a ride, always good to see you and the rest of the club. I'm trying to finish a couple of cars up myself and some projects at home. I hope that I make it there. Bob

I got it, get some of those fiberglass fingernail wraps. I use them to back up chopped tops, body repairs in general. It looks like real fiberglass. They self-adhere, you can leave them as is or soak them with CA glue. Any beauty supply store or beauty aisle should have them. Bob

The annual LIARS Model Car Challenge is being held on Saturday November 10th at the Freeport Rec Center in Freeport, Long Island, NY. The address is 130 East Merrick Road in Freeport, NY 11520. This is a jugded show with at least 24 classes of awards for places 1-3. Also master awards for various categories. Very reasonable food on premises, lots of parking, plenty of vendors will be attending. The show starts at 9am, not sure what the entry cutoff time is, so be early! For directions, use your online map service of choice. Or go to the Freeport Rec site. The best way once you're on the Meadowbrook Parkway is: Take the Merrick Road (aka Route 27A) exit going West. Get into the LEFT lane as soon as possible, at the light make a left onto Mill Road, which may or may not be marked. Follow Mill Road South for maybe a 1/4 mile, the Rec Center will be on your right. Hope to see you there, Bob

I'd say that 6 hours should do it, which could also depend on a lot of little factors. I personally would make up a test piece first and process it all the way through to the masking and other color painting. I have lousy luck with 2-tone jobs, I still feel that I'm better off cutting the car in half, do the two colors and rejoin the halves. Bob

I like the idea of a "born on" date on every package of BMF, but will it happen? I find that I get better quality of sheets from model shows and not my LHS, where they might get manhandled and who knows how old they are. I usually buy a sheet and split it with my brother, by the time it starts giving us trouble, we're done with it! Bob

Homey approves! Sits just right and love the engine selection.

I had intended to do one with no skirts myself, not in the custom vein like most of the others. Definitely a great kit to start with, but something about the windows bothers me, guess I'll have to stare at some 1:1 customs for a while. Bob

Hmmmmm, will it take paint or BMF?

Now that's different, very cool indeed. He needs to add some sponsor decals in the same vein. Bob

Shiny is always good, nice detail on the skirts too. Bob

I've seen rubber o-rings used before and they look great. Any decent hardware store has an assortment behind the counter, bring your wheels and match some up. The whole west coast hot rod thing was originally fed with military surplus goodies, not sure that any tire would be suitable for salt flats racing. I have no idea where they got them from. Bob

I'm with the Long Island NY LIARS. We meet on every 3rd Thursday at the Henrietta Acompura Lodge at 7:00PM. Which is located on Montauk Hwy in Blue Point, a 1/4 mile east of Nicholls Road. Bob

I think that the car culture is just not as strong for today's kid than it was with us. I grew up in the '60s reading all the car mags, learned how to read on them in fact. One of my neighbors had some cool cars to grok at. I started collecting tools at age 9, worked on cars shortly after. I had to laugh a few years back. I was working on a model at home and one of my son's friends was over. He asked me if that was a skill level 3 kit. I looked at him (I was not having any fun at the moment) and said, "kid, this is a skill level 16". He nodded wisely and moved on. Bob

I have 4 airbrushes, one new in the box as well. So what do I paint with? Rattle cans of course. My model area is a bit close quartered and I have no spray booth yet. I agree on the HOK (not the W-Mart KK line), Duplicolor, Plastikote (for 1:1 cars) and of course the Tamiya sprays. I'm not a big Testors or Model Master fan. Bob

Oh yeah, on 1:1 cars it works GREAT, and in seconds too! Just ask my ex-landlord who held my security deposit on me. Bob

Thanks, a lot of work has gone into it. The floor pan was removed and I put in a smoothed one, available from Mark Budniewski. The 427 is from the AMT '65 Ford, resin carb, turned aluminum oil filter (my own), lowered the rear some more, used parts of the MCG '39 Ford PE set. I have to finish up the paint and get it assembled for a show next month. Bob

Polly Scale Reefer White (for trains, not pot!) works well for me. I've even used craft store semi gloss or flat white acrylic. Just wash the tires well with a plastic brush and hot soapy water first. I scuff them with scotch brite as well. I've never had one crack on me, and I puddle it on. Sometimes it has to be thinned a bit so it flows a bit better. I've had it take like 4-5 coats so the black didn't show through. I give it over night to dry between coats. Bob