bobss396

There is a cool product called Goo Gone which is citris based that takes off tape and sticker residue, also works well on BMF adhesive. I always wash the area off after with a little soap and water on a q-tip just to be sure it is clean and will take the new piece of foil. I use the real deal BMF only, have tried the Model Master stuff which just curls up and is not user friendly. I believe that BMF has a shelf life to it, which I haven't a clue to what it is. After a while it looks like a dry lake bed with all the cracks it gets. I also try to buy it at shows only and will split a sheet with someone so it all gets used instead of going to waste. Bob

I judge shows and a good or bad BMF job can be a tie breaker. I've seen it looking like a Wrigley's gum wrapper on an otherwise greatly painted and detailed model. Some modelers try to foil a vent window with into one piece, not saying it can't be done, but they should look at a 1:1 car to see where the breaks are and consider using more than one piece. Another problem area is definition of the edges around window trim and body spears, etc. The good foil jobs are where they clean up the trim and re-scribe lines that are faint or irregular. In summary, take your time with it! If a piece gets over-worked, it tends to get that gum wrapper look to it, rip it off and start over. Bob

Try Detail Master for braided line and fittings, they should have almost anything that you might want to try. I have access to scrap wire of all sizes and color at work, so I'm stocked up and every once in a while some braided cable comes my way. Bob

Thanks Jarius, I like the idea and it should be pretty easy to do. I also have the "why finish ONE project when you can start SIX more?" affliction.

I've seen them in various hotrod magazines and books over the years. I catch the model cars in some of the model magazines and also the contest annuals. Bob

Thanks, I had looked for their site and agree they're gone. Since you say that the conversion piece quality is not that great I'll have to come up with plan "B".

I'm looking for one to fit the 1/24 scale RM '37 Ford Fat Fendered sedan kit, any help is appreciated. Bob

Cool tip, looks doable on lots of cars. I do something similar, only using short brass pins I found at a craft store. Bob

I like the rear wheelwells, nice touch. I always did like the 1:1 customs from up your way, the models are killers as well. Bob

Why is that so heavily clamped? If these a fit/warp issue or are you gluing a sub-assembly together? BTW, it looks great tubbed. I have a couple of those ERTL/MPC versions myself, turned one into a stock car. Bob

I think Scale Dreams may carry Tenax, which I use myself. I'm lucky to have a pretty well stocked hobby store close to me, anything I need in a hurry is 10 minutes away. Bob

I like the post about using as little as possible in general. You should always try to shoot for a "net shape" with plastic before reaching for the putty. My weapon of choice is Nitrostan, aka red lead, when it had lead in it. A big tube goes for about $11 and lasts forever. It comes in white and grey as well. It goes on very smoothly, I use cut up scrap plastic as a squeegee. Since I use so little, it shrinks very little that I haven't noticed it. I also force shrink it in the dehydrator for about an hour just to rule out it shrinking later. Bob

Prep work is very important as many paints today are quite thin don't hide flaws like the old enamels would. I always use a lacquer grade primer, but always use Duplicolor on the final passes as it goes on flat and thin, if you need to do more sanding/filling it will show up. Bob

Great turorial, love the engine block! The good part about styrene is that it is fairly cheap and if you screw up, you can still salvage most of it for other uses. I've made my own "chassis jigs" from 1 x 4 pine trim and using small finishing nails for banking. I've even double-face taped graph paper to it so I could lay out accurate lines. Bob

Try harvesting the wheel tubs out of a stock car kit, those are pretty big and you could probably razor saw what you want out of it fairly easily. Bob

The traditional chrome process caused chrome wheels to crack due to etch entrapment on the center holes and around the lug areas on the wheels. Centers were pulling out of the wheels so NASCAR nixed them at the time. Powder coating is a whole different process and works well. Bob

I've polished/color sanded some metallics with great success, so don't anyone let you tell you that it can't be done. Generally the larger the flake, the more difficult to impossible it will be. I've done Duplicolor and Tamiya sprays, but usually clear over them after. I often make up "sample" parts to experiment on, so I tend to try a lot of things out and not on the actual model. Success teaches us nothing. I believe that the smoother the finish coat is, the smoother the clear will lay down the less of a chance you'll blow through the clear into the color when you polish that. I don't necessarily buy into the Tamiya "one month" myth, everything I paint goes right into the dehydrator. Bob

My paint stand is a hockey puck with 4 holes drilled into the face of it. I insert coat hanger wire into the holes, similar to other paint stands here. The advantage is that I can rotate it in one hand while I paint. Got any old plastic cream cheese or butter tubs? Wash them out good, turn it over and poke a bunch of holes through the bottom. I paint parts on tooth picks and then pop them into the holes for drying. It never falls over, holds a ton of parts and costs nothing. I use fun-tack on the toothpicks, or attach alligator clips to them or use the plain toothpick in a hole in the part, or drill one where it won't show. Bob

I like Scale Dreams, they carry some supply items and have super fast service. PSF Hobbies carries more modeling supply stuff and is great to deal with as well. Bob

Nice lathe work as always Mark! Any chance we'll see you vending at the NNL East? Bob

Hardware stores (if you can still find one) carry spring assortments that they'll let you paw through. And they're cheap too. You can sometimes get a longer one and make 2 out of it. Also look at ball point pens, many have perfect model car springs in them. Bob

I like the hot tap water method. You might want to wear dishwashing gloves though. I let the water run over the section with the problem, twist the body beyond where it should be and rinse it off with cold water. It might take a couple of tries, but it has always worked for me. I don't like to immerse the whole body as some of the thin sections may permanently deform. Bob

I'm looking for a couple of Contest Annuals. Is there a way to buy them online or when are they expected to be available in book stores and news stands? Thanks, Bob