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bobss396

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Everything posted by bobss396

  1. Good point on the durability issue Bill. I do a lot of stock car builds using bodies that are non-native to the stock car chassis. I'll have a body on and off at least 100 times. I generally do the chassis first and the paint last, same as 1:1 cars for me. So that chassis will see some abuse. I like to use Krylon paints for those jobs. Even the Tamiya sprays will succumb to handling and need to be touched up at the end. My bro Will turned me onto the Tamiya acrylics. He has animals in the house (bird and dog) and paints in a spray booth and needed something easier on the noses. Bob
  2. Ken, thanks for the compliments, just relaying what works for me. I'm fairly new to using acrylics and use them mainly for brush painting small details. I know that some people think that lacquer is like black magic, but the reality is that it is far easier to work with than anything, at least for me. I keep it real simple too and even though I have 4 airbrushes, I still go back to the spray bombs quite often. I find that the Testors cans spray horribly, the nozzles clog up at the least opportune times. So there must be something in the paint that is NOT paint. The HOK and Duplicolor cans have a fan spray type of nozzle and spray great. The Tamiya cans use a different nozzle but I have never had a problem with them, even down to the bottom of the can.
  3. Either you are pulling our collective cricket bats or you know nothing about hobby paints or paints in general. I can't speak for the Testors Acryl line, but I have used Tamiya Acrylics. These do dry quicker than most paints, are relatively low in odors, but I find that they need to be clear coated to get a good shine out of them. It is also a softer paint and you have to be super careful if you polish it out. Enamels (which I no longer use) dry a lot slower, stay tacky longer so that can pick up dust. Once it is dry, it can be cleared or polished out. It is still not a hard finish and you have to be careful polishing. The Tamiya acrylic lacquer sprays are probably your best bet. They dry fast, the finish is harder than enamel but softer than lacquer, so they polish out well. You can clear over them too. Lacquers are what I use most of the time. Either Duplicolor, HOK or 1:1 car paint is what I prefer. For this you need a good automotive grade primer, that's the only trick to lacquers. Avoid laying on "too much too soon" and you should be fine with it. It dries hard and fast, over night usually works for me. I'll sand the crud out between coats if needed. Since it flashes over quickly, the dust never gets a chance to settle into it. You can color sand it (same as polishing) or clear coat it.
  4. You'll be there no matter what! I'll try and make it, but a great forecast for sun, sand and surf might bump me going to the show. I'm right off the ocean and hot beach weekends are a premium from now until late October. Bob
  5. I'm good for ONE can and will give it a fair trial. I haven't had any luck with anything in the Testors line and have been using mainly Tamiya, HOK and Duplicolor products. If the paint lays down nicely and the can sprays well, I might have just added another tool to the paint tool box. Bob
  6. I'm not crazy about some of the re-releases, so unless they're cranking out new product, stick a fork in 'em, they're done. How long can they sit around and wait for MK Dave to consign for something? I was going to sell off a bunch of AMT kits earlier this year, but now I'm hanging onto them as they might become unobtanium in a short time. Bob
  7. Hoppin Hydros used to carry a couple of blankets for lowrider displays. Pegasus Hobby in California used to have them, give their site a shot. Bob
  8. Hmmmm... although the trip is 180 miles each way I'm considering it. The show is really nice with lots of kit and parts vendors. I scored a semi-grail last year for $15, so I was happy. The models are on the same level as the rest of the show, which is an improvement over previous shows. Bob
  9. I see a lot of Winfield in it. Looking very sharp so far. I have one open myself and am contemplating an engine change myself. I'm not up to detailing the kit 3 x 2 carb setup, looks like a borderline lost cause. The '57 Ford engine is period correct for what you're going for. Post more progress pictures! Bob
  10. Is this a promo style kit? IIRC the original AMT kit had an engine in it and a full chassis. Bob
  11. Joe, I got an answer elsewhere that works, they're simple air inlet tubes for fresh interior air. I'm going to paint them so they kind of blend into the underhood scheme. Bob
  12. I'm going through the parts in the kit and was wondering what part #47 was. These are called "air tubes" and they plug into the firewall. What the heck are they? Thanks, Bob
  13. I had to laugh at the wheel falling off the car incident. It happened to me at a contest I was judging and I had to FIND the runaway wheel in a crowd of people, not fun. However the car was looked at again but ultimately did not make the top three picks in the class. Bob
  14. Oh yeah, I give it 5-10 minutes to soak.
  15. I also heat mine in a Pyrex cup with tap water, but do check it with a meat thermometer. I keep it about 105 F, above that I've had the bottom bulge out on a can as I shook it right after heating. Would have made a mess in my kitchen for sure!
  16. If anyone wants to dispose or trade a couple of AMT '49 Mercs, I have a couple of resin bodies here that can use them. Revell releasing their new Merc sure will impact the sale of existing AMT offerings as well as the resin body market. They are just too clean and complete to pass up. I have one open here at work, have cleaned up about 90% of the parts already. The engine is definitely a Caddy. Telltale details are the intake manifold and exhaust manifolds. Probably is either a 331 or 365. Bob
  17. If you have any slot car tracks around, stop by on race night. Those guys buy kits for just the bodies and not much else. Most of the time they're happy to sell the excess parts for a few bucks or less. Bob
  18. You went to a Greek Fest? Then you should have no problem ising the REAR entrance at the lodge tonight. The rear parking lot is where the 1:1 car show will take place. The meeting room is right off it. Bob
  19. Hey Rob, que pasa man? I should be able to get my mitts on a flyer soon and will scan it. Saturday 11/10 sounds right, but I will verify it. Bob
  20. Very easy Len, just mail me an money order for $50 and I'll have my personal PM service do all the dirty work for you! Bob
  21. If I have cars on the table, I take a powder while the judging goes on, just out of respect for what the judges go through. Some of the decisions are hard to make, ever try to pick the BEST of the WORST? Sometimes 3rd place comes down to cars with major flaws in them somewhere. I judge a couple shows a year and can sometimes pick up on someone looking over my shoulder. I've politely asked a couple of guys to give us some "elbow room" so that his car gets judged as fairly as the rest of them do. It doesn't happen often but the best bet is to shoo the person away diplomatically. After the awards I'll try to find the person and give him some constructive critisism if his car doesn't place. Or congratulate him on a well done entry if he does. Bob
  22. I have 4 local Wal Marts by me. I stop in at a few upstate NY now and then during the year. They all seem to be doing their own thing model wise. Even on Long Island, some have huge model areas with the KK paints, some just have one shelf dedicated to models with a handful of kits on it. If you try to analyze it or form some sort of predicition that they control the fate of the hobby, you will go nuts, save yourself now! Bob
  23. Paul, It would be great if you can make it. You can do a yahoo map if you need directions. The address is 39 Montauk Hwy, Blue Point, NY 11715. Bob
  24. I wander through Michaels once in a while (do NOT get on a cash register line behind some old bat that is buying a loose bunch of fake flowers!). I'll look for the Krylon pens. They also have some gold leaf and silver leaf that might be worth a try. I always pick up their Plastikote lacquer primers in the big can, great stuff and on;y around $2.25 with the 40% coupon. Look in the "jewelry" section for those liitle gems that can be used for tail lights. A great place to wander around on a rainy day for sure. Bob
  25. I would still give the Mr. Color thinner a try with the enamel. I also like it for nail polish work, just helps it flow out a little better. Bob
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