bobss396

Thanks to fellow LIARS member Andy for posting my pix on his Fotki site. I hope the links work, wasn't able to figure out how to get them to open by themselves. Bob http://public.fotki.com/ABehrens/liars_mod...nov2007053.html http://public.fotki.com/ABehrens/liars_mod...nov2007059.html http://public.fotki.com/ABehrens/liars_mod...nov2007061.html http://public.fotki.com/ABehrens/liars_mod...nov2007060.html

I've had lousy luck with Duplicolor white primer, just too thin for my liking. If you want a good white primer, try the Plastikote from Michael's Crafts. It withstands lacquers, it IS my white primer of choice right now. The Tamiya primer should be good for almost anything, but try it on some scrap first. I do this quite often when I have doubts on something new. I have never tried enamel primer under a lacquer paint, and certainly never lacquer over enamel in any shape or form, although some people get away with it, sometimes. Don't confuse the Kustom Kolors paint with the real deal HOK (Black Gold) lacquers. Kustom Kolors is an enamel based product, if they have a primer in the rack that goes with the line of paint, use it. The HOK Black Gold line is lacquer based. I use Duplicolor primer (the big cans are a great value) under it and never have had a problem. I'm a big advocate about getting people to switch to lacquers, which are almost all by now acrylic lacquers due to environmental regulations. It dries harder and faster than enamel, polishes out better (IMHO). Bob

These rods are killing me, yow. Great tutorial on the chassis pinning. I've used everything from brass brads to pieces of paper clip. I tend to have a heavy hand when sanding things so every bit of strength helps. An unsupported joint like that can sag under the weight of the model over time. Bob

Good placement for the front "Z" section, makes the engine installation easier. I would suggest drilling through the added section and into the chassis, insert a piece of wire and CA glue it in place. It makes a much stronger joint. Looks like a great project, post more progress pix! Bob

I read about it on their site, definitely a bummer big time. Super fast service every time, they will be missed. Has anyone offered to step up to take it over? Just a thought. Bob

The tangtang2 name goes back a ways on evilBay. I bought lots of things from them, never had a problem and always paid by money order. Bob

I'm more of a traditional rod builder myself, but those two have character. Post more progress pix! Bob

I see what happened. It is possible to think that this site is an E-Zine site, where everything is in the cyber world and there is no paper. Bob

I also agree with sanding lacquers prior to the soak. I'll even go over the whole thing with 320 grit, but of course stay away from any details that shouldn't be sanded. This lets the stuff get in a lot easier and makes the overall process that much faster.

Guess what, the link might not work so I copied what was posted on the former HH board. The Mapquest map thet comes up in the Google "freeport rec center" search is pretty good. It should be the first hit that comes up. The show is on for 9am-4pm tomorrow in beautiful downtown Freeport, Long Island, NY at the Freeport Recreation Center, 130 E. Merrick Road (aka route 27A), zip code 11520. I would suggest getting directions somewhere online. The best approach and parking is exit M9W (Merrick Road west), get in the extreme left lane at the parkway exit ramp, stay in the left lane on Merrick Road. At the first light (it comes up fast), make a left onto Mill Road (which may or not be marked). The rec center is about a 1/3 mile on your right. For the truly directionally challenged, stick to whatever map site that gets you to 130 E. Merrick Road in one piece, you can enter from there as well.

Spotlight Hobby Link to Show Info. The show is on for tomorrow 11/10 from 9am-4pm. Bring the family, there will be a make & take as well as a coloring contest for the kids. Check out the attached link, hope to see all of you there. Bob

How about the Model Master metallizer line? It comes in jar and spray cans. I find it to be very realistic looking and it comes in a variety of flavors. Bob

Dullcote comes in a spray can too. Just about the only Testors product that I'll use and endorse! Bob

It's all part of the modeling learning curve. I was hesitant to make the jump to lacquer, but when I did I was amazed at how EASY it was to use, my painting got BETTER in a flash. There is way less drama with lacquer . Bob

It will probably work, but make up a "test coupon" first. Either a scrap part or some styrene flat stock will work. This saves me lots of headaches when I try something different. Bob

The Testors primer would dry in a dehydrator in about 8 hours. I also agree that avoiding Testors spray paints is sound advice. Bob

I have a theory on ghosting. If you take the trim off with as little stress as possible, the ghosting will be reduced. I take human bites when i xacto it off, resist the urge to take it off in huge hunks and use a sharp blade. I also cycle it in my dehydrator, heat it for a few hours, let it cool by itself. I do 3 cycles of this total. This helps the plastic lose some of the "memory" of what was there. You still may have to prime and sand a few times. Go easy on the first coat of primer, the solvents tend to make the condition worse. Let it cure, sand if needed and do another light coat. I like Duplicolor's primer-sealer myself. I use a lot of lacquers and it works well. After I think that my ghosts are "exorcised", I'll give it a heavy final coat of primer. But do go easy on the color coats. I've had things ghost through the finish coat, days after I painted it! Poof, the ghosts were back. Don't rush it, too many solvents can get through the primer. Good luck, Bob

I use Evergreen stock almost exclusively. For roll cages, I'll either use .080 rod or .093 tubing, .125 is too big for most applications, I've never seen a 3.0" diameter roll cage bar. The neat thing about tubing is that it takes .035 rod up the middle which is great to join sections or peg it into a chassis or floor pan. I use floral wire (from crafts stores) which adds exceptional strength. I radius (fish mouth) the tubing with a small round file and join the pieces with Tenax or Proweld liguid glue. Lay out the roll bars on graph paper which is a big help to keep it squared up. With a little practice, you'll be a pro in no time. Good luck, Bob

Billy, I hope you can get a ride, always good to see you and the rest of the club. I'm trying to finish a couple of cars up myself and some projects at home. I hope that I make it there. Bob

I got it, get some of those fiberglass fingernail wraps. I use them to back up chopped tops, body repairs in general. It looks like real fiberglass. They self-adhere, you can leave them as is or soak them with CA glue. Any beauty supply store or beauty aisle should have them. Bob

The annual LIARS Model Car Challenge is being held on Saturday November 10th at the Freeport Rec Center in Freeport, Long Island, NY. The address is 130 East Merrick Road in Freeport, NY 11520. This is a jugded show with at least 24 classes of awards for places 1-3. Also master awards for various categories. Very reasonable food on premises, lots of parking, plenty of vendors will be attending. The show starts at 9am, not sure what the entry cutoff time is, so be early! For directions, use your online map service of choice. Or go to the Freeport Rec site. The best way once you're on the Meadowbrook Parkway is: Take the Merrick Road (aka Route 27A) exit going West. Get into the LEFT lane as soon as possible, at the light make a left onto Mill Road, which may or may not be marked. Follow Mill Road South for maybe a 1/4 mile, the Rec Center will be on your right. Hope to see you there, Bob

I'd say that 6 hours should do it, which could also depend on a lot of little factors. I personally would make up a test piece first and process it all the way through to the masking and other color painting. I have lousy luck with 2-tone jobs, I still feel that I'm better off cutting the car in half, do the two colors and rejoin the halves. Bob

I like the idea of a "born on" date on every package of BMF, but will it happen? I find that I get better quality of sheets from model shows and not my LHS, where they might get manhandled and who knows how old they are. I usually buy a sheet and split it with my brother, by the time it starts giving us trouble, we're done with it! Bob

Homey approves! Sits just right and love the engine selection.

I had intended to do one with no skirts myself, not in the custom vein like most of the others. Definitely a great kit to start with, but something about the windows bothers me, guess I'll have to stare at some 1:1 customs for a while. Bob