Harpo

I've got a project in mind for an early 60's Ford Mustang but I'd like to find a good quality kit, as opposed to these abominations I've been getting lately. Any suggestions?

I'm glad you inspired me to do some research, there were actually several versions of the Piranha including a Hemi-powered dragster, lots of opportunities for kit-bashing here! Here's the main web page: The AMT Piranha

Yes, it was used in the 3rd and 4th seasons. It's now in private hands and has been restored, there's some great pics of it here.

There's one seller on ebay that still has five of them, and several other individuals with one. No real shortage!

I'm probably going to get in way over my head, but I'm doing it anyway. I bought the AMT Piranha Super Spy Car kit because I like the engine configuration and detail, but I'm just not that thrilled with the styling. I've decided to turn it into a retro land-speed record car using a NOS Cox model airplane canopy and whatever talent and putty I can bring to bear.

AMT 860/12 kit, apparently using very old molds. Each and every piece needed extensive trimming and fitting, instructions have multiple errors, but it all came together nicely in the end. Colors are Createx 0015 Wicked Crimson and Badger 7-01 black, topcoated with Createx 5604 gloss. Radiator shell is Barnabas Copper Leaf. The Mobiloil sign was made from a picture found here, retouched in Photoshop and printed with an Epson PictureMate. There may be better ways to make decals, but this worked perfectly!

I realize AMT is not up to Tamiya standards, but this is the single-most ill-fitting mismolded mess I have ever encountered. But strangely enough, it's not frustrating, just challenging. I'm determined to make a presentable model out of this and I'm getting closer, but still lots of detail and touch-up to go!

Great looking truck, Stuart! I got most of the chassis done, but it's been a battle:

Just started the AMT860/12 Model T Delivery Van, and if this is "Round 2" then it must have been a knockout in 5 seconds. I think they offset the mold halves by 1/32" then held them apart a bit for extra flash. Virtually every part requires extensive trimming/refitting/straightening, and the instructions are vague - and in at least one case simply wrong. I'll get it re-engineered, but it is a challenge I wasn't expecting. Anyone else tried this kit?

Good looking build, I love it when the mold color matches what I want. No paint worries, just a little plastic polish and nice sharp lines. I thought this car looked familiar, and when I researched it I found out why - I owned a '98 200SX!

You are absolutely right about the tail lights! I thought I could get by with brushing them, but it didn't work out well! The evening went great, her parents didn't suspect a thing - at least that night. The story also involved a warehouse and a fork lift, but that's too much to model. There isn't a little man in there now, but you have inspired me... Many thanks to all for the fine compliments, this was a very fun build! Garry

Tamiya 66 VW Beetle 1300, stock build, finish is Createx 0004 Wicked Orange with 5604 Gloss Top Coat. Though this is not a Super Beetle, I built it in fond memory of a friend's car of similar color. His was a new 73, the year of our graduation from high school. He and I picked up yet another friend one day, with the specific mission of giving that individual some time with his girlfriend before he left for the Navy. (Notice I'm not using any names? That's 'cause we're all guilty.) We then headed to pick up the young lady, but since Individual #3 had been given very specific instructions by Girl #1's parents that he was NOT to be in her company at any time, we were left with a problem. We could have dropped #3 off somewhere and gone back after him after getting the young lady, but being the age we were I don't think that even crossed our minds. Instead, we selected the obvious solution - put him in the trunk. Fortunately he is of somewhat small stature and not claustrophobic, but I do think the car owner hit numerous bumps that were avoidable. And as I recall there was a gas heater in there too... He emerged mildly shaken and slightly charred, but the evening was a great success. So what I've built here is a model of a memory!

It's interesting to find this thread. I got back into the hobby recently, and BMF was new to me. I purchased a sheet each of "Improved Chrome" and "Matte Aluminum", and no matter how well I prep, this stuff won't stick at all. Started using Molotow, very pleased.

Thank you!

Kit number is AMT1008/12, I bought on Amazon: AMT 1008 1977 AMC Pacer Wagon The side and rear window panels are included but they fit rather badly, lots of putty required.

The side and rear window block-off panels are supplied with the kit. They require extensive putty make them flush; I got the sides done pretty well but not the back! In spite of the imperfections, I'm really pleased with the overall look of this car. Many thanks to all who have responded!

Done, and learned a lot! I've ordered a Nesco dehydrator, this should help with my next high-gloss attempt. 1977 AMC Pacer Wagon

1977 AMC Pacer wagon, from the AMT kit. Vallejo white primer, Createx Iridescent green with gold mist, Createx Gloss Top Coat. Rear side windows filled with kit-supplied panels, smoothed with Deluxe Materials "Perfect Plastic Putty". My first experience with model putty (though I have done a lot of 1:1 body work), and my first attempt at high gloss on a model. I'm pleased with the overall results, but I know I can do better in the finish department. A Nesco dehydrator is on the way, we'll see how it goes on the next kit!

I'm using Createx 5604 Gloss Top Coat as a final clear for a high-metallic paint job, the plan is to use many coats for depth. It dries quite rapidly to touch (10-15 min even with a fairly heavy coat), but when is the best time to re-coat? I've been giving it at least an hour, sometimes more, and it seems to be working. But I don't want to create a won't-ever-dry mess... Any advice on how to best apply a massive number of clear coats? Thanks in advance, Garry

Just added a reasonable reproduction of the Suzuki TS185 I used to take along when I went camping with this truck. It's from an AMT kit.

1956 Ford F-100 by Revell. I built this to replicate the 1:1 version I owned in 1974, when I lived in San Francisco. I was in the Army stationed at Presidio, and picked this truck up cheap from a South Mission lot. It ran good but had a totally worn out bed, which I replaced with an 8 x 8ft section of a parade stand that I "liberated" on post. With a 3 speed on the column and the overdrive wired to a switch, I could split-shift and haul outrageous amounts of furniture for my friends when they moved off-post. With overload springs installed I often put upwards of two tons on the back, and it never failed me even in the San Francisco hills! The flatbed is 1/32 birch plywood on basswood strips with CMT photoetched reflectors, weathering was done with Polly S paints and Tamiya powders. This is my first attempt at a weathered model, and it turned out quite faithful to the original!

Your'e absolutely right about those mold lines, I fixed some of them a bit but it's very hard to match paint texture! Chassis/cab is basically done, bed will be the same as I had on the 1:1 version in 1974, an 8ft square wooden flatbed. Weathering is a new challenge for me, but I'm happy so far:

1956 Ford truck Goldenrod Yellow, code M0358, faded - or at least as close I could mix!

1956 Ford pickup by Revell, another of the models I've been building to duplicate vehicles I've owned in the past. I had this 56 F100 in 1974, installed an 8' x 8' wooden flatbed and used it for moving. This is the very first "weathered" model I've attempted, it's a challenge!

The 2CV was in production 1948-1990. If anyone makes a 1960 or prior version it would have all the correct features, the only real difference is the style of the bonnet.