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Posts posted by bill-e-boy

  1. Thank Robert

    Been working on getting it up on wheels

    Brake lines, backing plates and spring on the rear end first offIMG_6082.thumb.JPG.48124b1e3882dddc1eb89238d84ebc5b.JPG

    Next up attach rear radius rods and then move on to the front end. I am happy that it is all going together OK as I did some of the engineering 20 years ago

    All together ready for the next step - Install the motor - I needed to change the front mounts a little. This is done - just waiting for the paint to dry


    The wheels are on loose and to check all OK




  2. Hi Alan

    Nice conversion of the old Monogram 32. The other projects look interesting to

    The roadster without the reveal looks good. There were some earlier repro chassis builders did not build in the reveal in their frames so you can get away without the reveal. 


  3. A stunning build

    You know when you have it when it all looks like it came straight from the (kit) box. Very clean, stance spot on, choice of wheels, engine and interior all work together to give an excellent result. The expression "the sum of the parts is greater than the whole" springs to mind.


  4. Fixed the bad spark plug boot. Have decided to leave red but with a black wash

    Been working on more scratchbuilt detail items

    I turned up a beehive coil and made some brake and clutch master cylinders from rod and plastic card. Need to get items to the paint booth but a few more items to get ready first.


    Wasted an evening looking for a fuel pump and oil breather and was about to scratch one up when I rechecked the pix I have to find that the fuel log is fed by a line that comes up from the chassis - looks like Royce may have used an electric pump next to the fuel tank -DOH!!

    Next on list is carbs and more engine detail



  5. A nice looking rod Ismo. Particularly like the angle cut on the A pillar as it makes it look longer. 

    I have been following the current 32 Roadster build that Aulis has on the HAMB -very talented builder

  6. Working on more small stuff and getting paint on them

    A bunch of parts ready to come out of the hot box


    And chrome parts that were originally painted with Alclad and now overcoated with Molotow. 


    The pix is a little dark but the finish on the parts is really good

    Got some time on the motor tonight. Now partly dressed


    Looks like I may have to redo one red sleeve. They are all yet to be painted black but left it red for the photo - black on black is very hard to photo

    A lot of parts have been or are about to be painted. The paint is Testors Jade Green in the little square jars - this was the original paint colour and I luckily found 3 jars in my stash. It is quite thick and needs to be thinned about 200% so goes a long way

    The next on the list is to paint the body again as there are a few areas that have not been covered properly

    More to come


  7. A modeler friend who had a Unimat 3 replaced his with something similar a while back. Said it is a lot better as it has a lot more features like the ability to screw cut and has a proper chuck. He does serious modelling like scratch building a 1/32 of a Caterpillar D8 dozer and lots of steam stuff.


  8. Further to my post above I sprayed some Molotow a couple of nights ago and below is the result

    Thinned 100% with lacquer thinners and spent 24hrs in my hot box. The results are very good. most of these items had been painted with Alclad a long time ago and the finish was below what I was after so I reprayed with Molotow. The is one new part which is the flathead oil filter


    In real life they are not as dark as in the photo


  9. I use 30ml refills sprayed my air brush. I do thin it up to 100% with lacquer thinners. I lay down a light but full coat then come back 20-30mins later with a fuller coat and it come out nice and shiny like chrome. I let it cure in my hot box for a day and do not touch it for at least a week as it seems to harden with age. 

    I use lacquer thinners or brush and roller cleaner for clean up as well 

    I gave up on Alclad as the finish is so variable and the difference between enough build up and too much is one coat. It is also quite dark as compared to Molotow

  10. More work on the small things like carb air horns. Heat bent some plastic tube, cut to length on the inlet side and hand reamed out with Dremel cutters held in my big pin vice


    Dash board and seat from last time I worked on this - maybe 10 years ago. The seat pattern was scribed into a sanded down plain seat using guides for the corners and a straight edge for the straight parts





    Slowly getting all the small bits finished and painted


    More to come


  11. On 5/11/2021 at 9:29 PM, Kit Karson said:


    Your off to an awesome start!  Fab work is on a level with some of the finest modelers anywhere on our planet, Brother!  -KK

    Thanks Kit.

    Fab work is a norm as I live a long way from the aftermarket suppliers. I have been "Kit Rodding" as I call it for a long time now and I don't always have the right part to fit the job at hand.

    The purchase of the lathe added another dimension to my model fab work - don't know how I  got on without it




  12. Thanks for the kind words

    Been hammering away at the small stuff

    Needed and crab style distributor so made one up. Took a couple of attempts to get it there. Started with some sprue that I machined to the needed diameter then filed a groove for the terminal posts. The posts are insulation striped off some some small wire and cut to length. A cap was glued over the groove and insulation then cut to length on my lathe with a stub to fit into the hole in the front of the engine block



    It is now complete but the pix will have to wait as the pix fairies dealt to the photo

    The next thing to sort is the fan belt and generator. As a 2 carb manifold is used the generator needs to be moved to one side - in this case to the left hand side of the block. A matter of cutting up fan belts and pulleys, fab up a bracket for the gennie and idler pulley. Royce used the front of a generator in the stock location for the idler




    A bracket was made up for the oil filter and pinned to the LH head


    Meanwhile while the glue is drying on one part we work on another - The brackets for the pickup bed are made from 1mm square plastic rod. I did these last time I had this out but they all needed regluing and trimming to length.



    The next thing to do is paint and chrome so that some assembly work can be done on the chassis. The list is still long

    More to come










  13. Ok -on with the modifications

    The original motor was mounted via a plate to the rear of the head stock


    As this would not be the case with the new motor I mounted the motor and the lathe on a piece 3mm ally plate. The motor mount holes were slotted to allow belt tensioning. 


    The plate has rubber feet to stop the whole lot moving around the bench when it was running

    The motor and the lathe were dully mounted onto the plate

    The motor wired to the VSD and a control box mounted on top of the motor with the run/off switch and speed dial pot

    The VSD is set up to run at a maximum frequency of 80hz as above this motor power tends to fall off. With the speed up ratio of the pulleys the top speed is the same a the original motor of 8000rpm at 80hz

    I rarely run it above 40hz and can run it right to 10hz without any issues

    The mods have been well worth the effort and having the ability to change speed at the touch of a button is magic

    The lathe as it is today



    And with the milling head attached


    The only job I have left to do is make up a cover for the belt drive - must get around to it - one day

    Thanks for looking







  14. Thanks for replies

    Bruda - I take note of comment re title - but not sure on how to change

    Peteski - 3ph motor may be overkill as far as size - its just the smallest motor I could get hold of. The main focus of the exercise was to have variable speed but without the drop off in torque as happens with the original motor. I could have sourced a smaller DC motor and drive but as I already had an AC drive available I decided to go down this route

    Ace-Garageguy - my big lathe is about half way between yours and a Unimat 3 or SL

  15. I am not sure if this is the correct Topic to put this post under but it is the closest I can see where it would fit

    In a nutshell I scored a used Emco Unimat 3 mini lathe via the local (NZ) online auction site

    The lathe was complete with all the usual fittings and had the milling attachment as a bonus. Also had lots of extras like tooling and other little doodads that often come with second gear. It was a little tatty though. The milling attachment is at the top of the photo


    I cleaned it up and freed up some stiff handle knobs. I did not take a chance so I replaced the main shaft bearings following the instruction manual for setting the required bearing pre-load


    At this point I had used the lathe a few times but I was not happy with having to change pulleys al the time to change speed. The motor is two speed but the way this is configured there is quite a drop in power when using the slower speed.

    I work as an industrial electrician in the real world. I had to hand a suitable single phase to 3 phase variable speed drive unit but no small motor. I then went about looking for a small 230V 3phase motor. I ended up buying the smallest 2 pole motor that the local motor importer had. It may be small in 3 phase terms but is quite large next to a mini lathe

    As I intended to keep the original drive unit to be dedicated to the mill head I needed to machine up some new pulleys for the motor and lathe. I did this in my big lathe as the Unimat just would not have the power to drive a form tool




    More to come




  16. Hi Alan, thanks for the kind words

    Royce was close to 6ft tall and he had issues with the cramped confines of the cab but he still drove it around. I remember he and another rodder drove from Palmerston North to Auckland in the middle of winter to enter into a show. Auckland is about 500km from Palmy. He also went to the South Island in it too. The guy who has the pick up now said its pretty hard to get into and out of 

    I just remembered the back section of the body is the remainder of the top of the 26 T

    When I made up the buttons I made heaps as stretching sprue is an inexact science.

    I see the occasional 26 T on the local auction site, either sedans or the delivery. Your project looks interesting

  17. One of the major stumbling blocks that I could see was the headers. The originals were made from Holden car tail pipes and snake around the radius rods. The collectors were made from flathead oil filter housing. This was a novel idea but filter housings in 1/25th are few and far between. The other block was chrome plating. When I first started the model just 20 years ago there was no chrome paint systems available.

    My first attempt at the headers was not a great success but a couple of attempts later I ended up with that in the pix below. The motor is from an AMT 40 Ford but this has now been replaced by the Revell flattie.


    The oil filter that came with the Revell flattie has a big hole in the rear - quick solution machine one from some plastic rod. While I was at I need a couple more for the header collectors. First the oil filter


    It looks huge but the main body dimension is just 5mm

    Next up machine the collectors. This needed a different machining approach. First turn the barrel part then change the lathe over to mill function and drill the header pipe entries, the back to lathe operation to machine the cover end of the collector.

    The lathe/mill is an Emco Unimat 3 which I picked up second hand awhile back with this job at the top of the to do list but such is life other jobs came first.

    Pix below is the drill out of the collector for the header tubes. Its a bit hard to see as the white plastic was difficult to photograph



    More to come




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