jchrisf

That's really cool Tim.. you should've keep them longer. I think you could get a lot more for them now. If they were $15, I wish I would have bought a few of them back then.

Thanks for the info Rick.. Wish I would have gotten one then.. that is a great price for a cool thing like this. I'm seeing them around $450 now.

I'd never pay the money these things are going for now but I am curious how much they sold for when they were producing them?

I agree.. I'd also love to know what paints you use for your metal colors. And you are right @kpnuts, they do look very realistic.

I've noticed my two heroes, Clay Kemp and Dave Thibodeau, are using Mission Models Acrylic for brushing detail these days.

Wow.. that is a lot more sophisticated than I was expecting. So do companies like Slixx design the graphics and send to Cartograf to print or do they have a less sophisticated process?

I've searched every where and can't seem to find anything on what the pros are using to print decals. There is plenty of info on home printing on decal paper but what do the pros like Revell and Slixx use?

This company will take your money and string you along saying it is backordered. Check out their BBB complaints. I purchased from a similar company a couple of years ago and ordered $500 worth of supplies and models. After getting jerked around for a month I filed a complaint with my CC company because they didn't take PP. The CC company immediately refunded my money. When the CC company got involved the guy sent half my stuff and said the order was completed. I let the CC company know what he did and after a week of investigation they told me they had sided with me and I could keep the stuff that was shipped. Worked out pretty good for me as I think they were teaching him a lesson but it was a bit scary at first thinking I was going to lose $500.

Yeah, I should have bought a few when they were available. So hard to find race car kits these days. All online retailers have them as backordered so I was hoping they'd get replenished.

I'm specifically talking about the Joey Saldana Sprint car and the Frank Iaconio Pro Stock. These are backordered everywhere.

Not sure on the motor size. I had to get a paint booth to paint inside because the humidity here in FL was killing my clear coats. However, I have recently hung out with a paint and body guy at his shop and he taught me how to setup airflow in my garage with fans and said that using 2K with a slow hardener would prevent the blushing. There is no way I am spraying 2K in the house unless I have a paint booth that will really suck out fumes. DT and Clay Kemp have a homemade paint booth that looks like it would do it. I think they are using a 6" hydroponics fan attached to a plastic storage bin.

Yes, it is only marginal. I wish I would have found this one first because it has 2x the cfm and built in LEDs..

Sounds like you know your stuff. Are you saying I could use a larger hose with my 4" motor or I need to upgrade my motor? If I can use the 5/6" with what I have how is the best way to attach it? I was thinking if I had bigger hoses it should allow it to escape the booth faster/easier since trying it without a hose at all worked so well.

Nice setup.. is that the stock fan? Yours looks different and more powerful. When mine gets any paint on the filter it doesn't pull much air at all.

Do you have a link to that? I can't find anything that inexpensive. I'm going to experiment with fish tank filters that come in rolls.

Nice setup @Tom Geiger. I'm glad to see you are having luck with those 90 degree corners because I need to have two of them like you but I will get some straight ducts this weekend and give them a try. If this doesn't work a paint and body guy gave me some tips on using big fans in my garage without a booth. He said it was all about the air flow. @ewetwoI cannot do that because of my layout both on my window and my paint booth. On the paintbooth it comes out the left side as you can see from my picture. And the opening to my window is only one and a half feet from the floor. Also, not show is a wall on the right that is two and a half feet away which has a desk in front of it.

Unfortunately I am going to have to put at least one 90 in it to get it out the window but I might be able to do a 30 or 40 degree on the first curve and point it to the left side of the window. It will make the run longer though. I'm hoping if I get a long straight duck coming out it will make a big difference.

I emailed Pace after I got it asking him how I should set it up but he never replied back. Can someone link me to these furnace filters? I do a search but it is the same expensive pleated filters that shows up on my search engine.

I'm using the pleated filter that came with it. Are yours pleated? What kind of duct do you have on yours?

I'll get the pic with everything in place when I get home this afternoon. Is there any rule on how long after the fan the duct needs to be straight before it bends? I was thinking two feet.

I used my new Mini-Plus for the first time last week and it didn't have good airflow. I'm using the foil flexible duct (see picture below). I stretched it as tight as possible and cut off the excess and it improved a little but it is still not that great. When I took the duct off completely to test it had great airflow. If I got straight aluminum duct with two 90 degree elbows to get out my window would that help enough to be worth it? Because of the way I'm setup I have to go across to the left, down and then out the window. My window setup is through a 2x8 that I only set in the window when I need to use the booth. Also, there is not a lot of depth to the booth so it is easy to bump a car body on the filter in the back. If I had great airflow I could probably pull back outside the booth a little and let it suck in but as it is now it doesn't suck the overspray into the booth if I am not right up against the filter. The body was painted with the nose and rear in different pieces. If it was all one body it would have really been a challenge.

Can you polish this clear out? Is it a lacquer?

I'm wondering if maybe he meant that lacquer paint never actually cures? This professional modeler states it in the below video at 4:10. I don't remember him mixing anything in the color urethane paint he was using but I had a lot of info coming at me quickly so I might have missed it. I have a 3M respirator and a Pace paint booth. I can't smell the lacquer paints I use when I use it but I still use my respirator. I guess with using the 2K clears I would get the protection I would want but I think I will try some urethane paint from him to see what I think about using it. I curious what paints and clears you use on your models having had so much experience with real cars?

I got to hang out with a friend of a friend who is a long time paint and body guy the other day and was shocked when he told me lacquer paints never dry. My only knowledge of auto paint was what I learned here after starting this hobby about four years ago and everything I seemed to have learned tells me that lacquers dry the fastest. So I asked him what he meant and he said all you have to do is wipe on some kind of thinner like lacquer thinner and the paint will come off. He says the auto industry quit using lacquers a long time ago because of this and now only uses urethane paints. This just got me wondering why we don't use urethane paints for our car models since we want them to look as realistic as possible and have long lasting paint. Seems urethane paints lay down much better too. I thought that maybe Splash, Gravity or Zero paints were urethane paints but it appears they are not.. just their 2K clears. I guess the 2K clear will protect the lacquer underneath so it can't be damaged? I'll have to ask him the next time I see him. Are urethanes less likely or more likely to damage the plastic? He can mix any color of high grade urethane for me from 2oz and above at a great price.

Can't be this good and easy