jchrisf

I've honestly tried all three and haven't noticed much difference myself but I don't have the experience most people here do.

Thanks Dave... I'll be putting the #3 on for the next session. I believe @Scale-Master once posted that all he ever uses is the #5 for everything.

Thanks all.. my Paasche H has one needle for both the #1 and #3 nozzle. Is this true with the one you use?

Unbelievable build... It looks real.. great job!

Very cool! I love Sprint Cars. I think I am getting ready to do my first Sprint Car build next. I love the view you have there in the background.

Looks great Mark. When those decals go on the car really comes alive.

Awesome! Looks shiny enough.. I thought it was cleared.

Wow! Perfection again (as usual). I hope I can build this great someday. What is your secret for laying down smooth decanted Tamiya paint on the body?

Thanks Atin... I started a couple of years ago and built 5 or 6 models before I got frustrated with bad paint finishes. So I took two years off and kept watching YT videos and finally got the bug to try it again. I have trouble with painting the bodies and end up having to strip them and start over. This one was left in Tamiya primer because I like the way it looks and goes on so smooth. I would be finished with this build but I'm waiting to get more practice with the clear on my test body before I shoot this one. This is also the first build I have done where I have taken my time. It makes a big difference I've learned.

That's interesting where you lock it in place. I've not heard of doing that before. I've always thought that needle stuck up too high. Is this a common practice?

How far do you all open your nozzle on the H when you shot lacquer on the car body? I'll have to give the VL a try soon... was trying to master the H for smooth body painting first but haven't figured that out yet... I might have to put it aside and grab the VL

Thanks Carl!

Maybe Bob Downie @Zoom Zoom can comment.. he is in the August 2020 magazine testing them

Great job!

A few more things done today. I've been working from home for the past two months but I have to go back to the office tomorrow so I won't be getting as much done in the future.. looking forward to retirement

Thanks Geoff! Thanks again Geoff! I have a VL too but have never used it. Which do you like better? I got mine on sale for $25 at Hobby Lobby and couldn't pass it up.

Is there anything I can add to my Yellow Top to retard it? I've been using the #1 tip because I notice most custom paints recommend small nozzles for body paint... and even the #1 is pretty big.

Wow!!! That is perfection. What is your secret for masking those wheels to perfectly seperate the Gold from the Chrome? And what did you use for chrome?

If you look at comments in this video (and others on this channel) Gravity Colors USA is active in David Thibadeau's YT comments. Are they doing better now? They are only an hour or so south of me.

I've been having a hard time getting smooth paint out of decanted Tamiya TS spray paints. I use a little yellow cap Tamiya thinner (but also tried without). Does it have a leveler/retarder in it? If not is there anything I can add? I use a Paache H and have tried pressures between 18 and 30 psi.

Thanks Dann! Thanks Alex, I'm a big fan of your work and articles! Thanks Scott and Yes it does scream to be built Thanks Robert.. I've never had a problem with Tamiya decals but this is a pretty complex scheme for me but I've learned a lot and should make most of my stash kits easy. Wow Tony, that is above my skill level for now.. I guess you will cut the hood open so you can see the engine?

The decals on this one have been a great learning experience for a newb like me. I still have a few more parts to paint and decal but this is everything so far.

Cool.. hope it works for our cars too!

I've been looking at that one too Dave. Right now I am leaning more for the Creos but you never know

Glen, that is exactly how the 1:1 guys do it.. I'm trying to get closer with less pressure and thinner paint like you said but my current airbrushes just do a fine line at that distance and why I think I need one of these.