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SCRWDRVR

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    Ecto 1 parts

    in Wanted!

    Posted

    I’m looking for some Ecto 1 parts. I am looking for all the parts off the roof including the ladder, rear bumper and the wheels is anyone has any of that laying around let me know what you need for them, thanks

    Ecto 1A Parts

    in Wanted!

    Posted

    I have one of the Surf Shark kits I want to turn into the Ghostbusters Ecto 1A so I need the parts changed if anyone has them laying around, let me know what you want for them. Or if you have the Ecto 1A and want to trade. Thanks....

     

    Needed

    Ecto 1A Decals

    Factory Wheels

    Roof lights and accessories

    Dupli Color and blushing

    in Model Building Questions and Answers

    Posted

    I use Dupli-color a lot, I've found it doesn't like humidity, perfect match and the clear. I try not to use it unless the humidity is below 50% around 40% is Ideal. I paint in my basement with an indoor spray booth vented and I have a humidity gauge down there so I know when it's good for painting. You can also use a small heater to blow hot air on it to get the blush out of it when spraying, just be careful about how hot. Blushing can be polished out in most cases but I prefer to try to stop from having it.

    Real Racing 3

    in The Off-Topic Lounge

    Posted

    1 hour ago, Mittagskind said:

    Hello Brian, nice to meet you. Maybe we have already met us on the track. I also play RealRacing3 since a lot of years, sometimes more, sometimes less. My user name is MissPiggy98767. My driver score is 220 but it´s more and more hard to score up higher.
    Hope we will see each other in Laguna Seca or Melbourne.
    Greetings from Berlin
    Hanjo

     

    Hello Hanjo,

    My name in the game is bd4martin I'm a 133, I will keep an eye for your name on the tracks. Who can tell we may have already raced each other...

    Paint flames the clean ‘n’ easy way

    in Tips, Tricks, and Tutorials

    Posted

    On 12/18/2022 at 11:30 PM, CabDriver said:

    You ever see a scale flame-job that looks cool until you get up close and see bleeds, rough edges, high edges, fuzzy spots and other imperfections that come from trying to shoot light colored flames over a darker colored base color?  

    Here’s a technique for super clean and easy flames I’ve been using for a couple of years now that I thought some of you all might find useful.

    You’ll need nothing special for this process, and I did this particular body with rattlecans.  I DO use a Silhouette scrapbook cutter for making my masks…but you can use pre-cut ones from eBay or Lazy Modeler or cut your own from masking frisket or tape if you don’t have a plotter to use.

    First step, prep and prime body as normal:

     

    Second step is NOT, I repeat NOT the body color.  Here, you’ll paint the color that the flames will be.  I did a solid color, but you can do a gradient from white-yellow-orange or yellow-red or whatever you would like your flames to be at the end:

     

    Next, we mask.  I like a traditional classic hot-rod flame, but for this one I recreated the decal art from the new issue of the Revell 32 Roadster kit, and then cut masks out of Oramask 815 masking vinyl (usually about $10 a roll from Amazon or eBay)

    The cool thing with this vinyl is that it’s translucent, so I could also have laid it over the decals, or a photograph or a drawing of some flames and traced the shape by hand instead…and actually, that IS how I did it before I had a cutter.

    Once you’ve got your flames, lay them down and make sure the edges are sealed nicely:

     

    Next up…body color!  I used an old spray can of Testor’s blue, but any color darker than the first color will work just fine.

     

    And finally…carefully de-mask!  Fold the vinyl over on itself as you pull it back, starting from the widest end - if you make the vinyl do a ‘u-turn’ on itself as you peel, you’ll get cleaner edges.  If you do this when the paint is starting to dry but not wet you’ll usually avoid the paint chipping on the edges.

    And…you’re done!  Tada!

     

     

     

    The secret to this technique is that by painting the lighter color first you won’t struggle to cover it with the darker color.     And the less layers of paint, the smaller the ridge that you’ve got to try and cover with clear, the faster the drying time and the quicker you’ll be admiring your handy work.  This entire paintjob was done in a day, including prepping the body (and more of the time was just waiting for the primer and green to dry).

    So, for, say, a black paintjob with yellow flames you’ll have no problems with building up multiple layers of paint trying to cover the black and it’s WAY easier to lay down those spindly little flame licks on a body than align a big sheet of mask that doesn’t want to lay flat over the curves of a more complex body (think 40 Ford, for example).

    If you’re painting something with a lighter main color, say a yellow body with red flames…do it how you normally would.  But for light colored graphics on a dark body this is by far the easiest way I’ve found so far.  And it doesn’t have to be FLAMES, of course - this trick works with scallops or race numbers or stripes…anything you can imagine!

    Hope some of you found this helpful!

    I have a regular vinyl cutter that will cut up to 34" vinyl. I used it to make a stencil for a car a while back came out pretty good, what type of material are you using for the stencil?

    My first stencil job

     

     

    IMG_3722.jpg

    IMG_3724.jpg

    A word on sanding for paint.

    in Tips, Tricks, and Tutorials

    Posted

    7 hours ago, Plowboy said:

    A trick I learned a long time ago when I worked in a body shop is to use a guide coat over primer. I'll spray a coat of gray and mist a coat of white over it. When I sand, any imperfections will show. 

     

    I learned the same thing the same way... Only thing I tend to do different is I will dust black just because it makes it easier to see and I will end up sanding all the black off anyway... Just my preference..

    Jungle Jim Atlantis Kit

    in General Automotive Talk (Trucks and Cars)

    Posted

    2 hours ago, 1972coronet said:

    The 1/16 (recently reissued) would be, IMO, the best one to work with. If you're unfamiliar with it (originally a Revell kit, now under the Atlantis banner), I wish to suggest watching the build and review as seen here: 

    **EDIT**
    The 1/16 kit in the video is the Vega, but its 'guts' are the same as the Camaro (not sure if the Camaro F/C was ever kitted in big scale)

     

    Ok thanks, I don’t care if it’s the Camaro or the Vega I’m wanting a Jungle Jim kit. I was a fan when I was young and he is from not far from where I am. I think they released that kit as his car at one point…

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