SCRWDRVR
-
Posts
1,034 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Gallery
Posts posted by SCRWDRVR
-
-
Not sure if this helps but when you right click on the item your saving on the pop up menu you click save as it should allow you to pick where it goes. I it just saves it then you can change the settings in your browser to have it always ask where to save the files that way you can pick where it goes...
-
I think it's because they do not pay for size or weight like if we were shipping something as they are doing there own and it allows them to have fewer sizes... Only logical answer I have come up with...
-
I was in a local Walmart today and for the first time they had kits, I picked up the 72 Jimmy, 77 Ford Coke van and the Peterbuilt wrecker...
-
I need to watch that video when I have a chance, I have a Paasche air eraser that I have had for years, I've always used it to etch glass but never thought about using it for models...
-
1
-
-
2 hours ago, StevenGuthmiller said:
To answer your original question bluntly, if you want to do anything “perfectly” in this hobby, plan on putting in a couple of decades of work!
It’s hard to make “anything” look like you put in the work unless you “actually” put in the work.
If it’s instant gratification you seek, collect diecasts.
Steve
That has got to be the most accurate answer to something like this I have ever seen. You can certainly learn from videos and questions but you will learn the most by doing. I was a automotive painter for a little more than 10 years and had 3 years of school too but I still have issues sometimes. Best thing to do is practice and learn what to do when you do have issues...
2 minutes ago, peteski said:You know David, that jab wasn't very nice! Bite the hand that feeds you? I'm done!
That was pretty bad for someone asking for advice...
-
11 hours ago, BlackSheep214 said:
The old Lindberg battle damaged option aircraft kits? Yeah, I’ve been seeing those at my local Ollie’s store.
They were Lindbergh kits and mostly war planes so probably so but I did see one that look like a regular commuter plane….
-
I was in my Ollie's here in Dover and they had some plane kits. I didn't get any I don't do planes but they had several..
-
7 hours ago, Foghorn Leghorn said:
That is some very good and respectable work. Far beyond my attention span.
Thank you...
-
2 hours ago, espo said:
The picture is a little dark to see all of the detail, but what I see looks good. A thought on the molding painting. You mention painting the moldings and I think the semi gloss Black would be the most ideal finish for that. The outer edges of the moldings would be a chrome type finish. Would it be easier for you to paint the center of the molding and then go over the molding with chrome foil and cut away the center, or try a liquid chrome treatment for the outer edges ? Should you go with the foil option think about just doing one body panel at a time. Being right handed I usually would start with the left front fender, then the door, and then the bed side. Part of this is to keep the door edge detail and less chance of the foil bunching up and getting any wrinkles I have found.
I think the foil (BMF) is definitely the way to go for the outside chrome, My hopes by foiling over the whole thing is to lose some of the depth of the transition between the outer part and the center since on the 1:1 it is not very deep. I did separate the molding per panel so I agree doing each panel at a time will be best.
-
Ok I have the molding done and primed on the Blazer, I’m figuring cover it with BMF and painting the center semi gloss. What do you all think?
-
9 hours ago, slusher said:
true your very close. You did a pretty nice job. Did you you glue it down all the way..?
Thanks, I glued it down with white glue and I’m hoping the paint will lock it down….
-
Years ago when I was a car painter we were always told to use a primer most similar to your finish color. However like mentioned by others you definitely can use gray but I would recommend if you are not familiar with the difference you can get by changing your primer color I recommend you get some different color primers and some spoons and prime each one a different color then top coat with your red. You'll be surprised how different they turn out... , If you just want to get it done though the gray will do the job...
-
Mine comes from one of my trucks, I have an 05 F150 Supercrew and when I was active in the truck forums and clubs they called the Supercrew a Screw so I am a Screwdriver so my name is that with no vowels...
Looks like this now however I did take the cap off and went back to a tonno cover
-
17 minutes ago, ZTony8 said:
I think the pointed tip of the fender molding is closer to the front vertical edge of the marker lamp. Trim the back edge of your piece and line up the point with the front of the marker lamp.
Got ya, yeah looks like I did go a touch to far forward...
-
I don't always copy the receipt but I always make sure they have the tracking number and know when to expect it...
-
I have about half of them in a rotating cabinet in my half of the basement where I build and the other half over my desk in single cases. I have one in our den that is of my wife’s dream car (so it was aloud upstairs) and I have one on my desk at work…
-
I gave it a try today, what do you all think
-
14 hours ago, 1st 700 Quad said:
Scrwdrvr came thru for me again, thanks, buddy.
Steve
No problem Steve glad I could help….
-
2 hours ago, espo said:
You might want to see if you can find any Scottsdale pickups running around in your area to take measurements for the side moldings. They may be hard to find due to age but this would give you the correct measurements. As for materials for the moldings don't rule out Plastruct produces. I have used both and I think the quality is much the same and any well stocked hobby shop should be able to supply either or both products. As always there is the internet shopping.
That's a good idea I don't recall seeing one around but I'll have to keep a look out for one.... I will check out Plastruct also Thanks
-
2" sounds good, the kits are 1/24th but close enough. I'm on a budget so having them made by a 3D printer is probably a bit out of my budget but I don't mind trying to make them...
-
14 minutes ago, mikemodeler said:
Keep in mind that HL only stocks a fraction of what is available from Evergreen. Check the Evergreen website and you may have to order it from a hobby shop.
Definitely I want to see what they have to reference the size, I’m sure I will have to order what I get
8 minutes ago, Foghorn Leghorn said:How's your math these days?
The lens is 7 ½” tall.
knowing that and just looking I would say that molding is about 2” thanks it helps know the size of the tail lights
-
I'm going to have to take a trip to HL and look at the evergreen they have in stock to get an idea of the size I want and look up what is available . I guess the hardest part really will be figuring the size out so I'm not buying a bunch of different sizes I don't need...
-
58 minutes ago, Fat Brian said:
I would use Evergreen plastic strips. 1mm or 1.5mm wide and .2mm or so thick looks close. Sand the point at the front into it then glue it down with something like Tamiya thin or Bondene. For the silver part I would glue a round rod about .3mm around the edge of the flat strip. This should get you in the ballpark at least, if you have actual measurements for the trim you could get it closer.
I don’t have measurements unfortunately that would definitely help, I’m building both of these vehicles that were my Dads, I have an extra cab so at least I have a tester cab….
-
I’m looking for the easiest way to replicate the body side moldings that came on the 70’s Chevy trucks, any ideas?
Wife Has Pancreatic Cancer
in The Off-Topic Lounge
Posted
I am sorry for your loss, my thoughts and prayers are with you and your family at this rough time... I know we are states away but if I can do anything at all even if as little as a friendly ear on the phone in the middle of the night don't hesitate to contact me.