69*Goat

Spyder: Your pictures are great!!! They will definitely come in handy. I am going to stop in at my LHS today and pick up some grime, mud, dust and experiment with them tonight. I have a show tomorrow, and I am trying to get two finished up for it. The kit is the Modeler's Kit. It is ok, it comes with metal tail lights, Mirrors, Headlights. I was surprised to see these in the kit. These things were pretty bare when they were raced, I mean they had NO sponsor decals. Thanks for the pictures. Great looking build BTW. What color did you use for the line around the tire sidewall?

This thing is a Big White Elephant, and I need to add some character to it. Do any of you have pictures of your weathered white race cars for reference?

I received a 1/24th scale Modeler's Chaparral 2D. I was surprised to see white metal headlights, mirrors, and tail lights. This thing will take no time to complete.

MODEL

I used the Zero "Bad Boys" yellow on my builds, and the paint does "Not" match the decals. The Yellow on the decals is borderline "Fluorescent" I did not notice it until I put one on, but at that point, it was too late to do anything.

Just a quick question to see if anyone here will be showing their work tomorrow at the contest tomorrow?

I am glad to have this one finished. I just need to get the Bad Boys finished for Saturdays contest.

The one on the left is my daily driver....... The one on the right is my weekend warrior.............

The Bad Boys aren't too far behind.

Ron Fellows Interior

The Ron Fellows 2007 Sebring C6R is almost done.

TS-13 is a Tamiya Spray Clear, I have seen it burn through decals. The 2K Clear is a two part Urethane Clear, which I think most everyone on here uses. I did use Micro-Sol to set the decals in place. I think that I am going to go ahead and put all of the decals on both cars and clear over them.

I did lay down a coat of TS-13 before I placed the decals on the cars. However, I DO NOT trust TS-13 to go over the decals.... I was going to lay a coat of 2K clear over the decals, but was worried about the scale appearance of the 2K clear. I have never used it before, but it looks to me like it may be too thick, if you know what I mean. Any tricks to getting the correct appearance? I am guessing sanding and buffing?

Dave: I use a Nikon D70s. It only has 6.1 megapixels, but it takes great shots(Don't use the ones I post here as examples).... I just purchased a new 10x magnifying filter that screws onto the lens, and it gets you right up close. I will have to break down at some point and buy a good macro lense. Just my $0.02

I am in the process of building both of the Bad Boy C6R's Corvettes. I have gotten all of the skull, and paint break decals on the cars. My question is this..... Should I apply All of the decals then clear coat, or clear coat over the skulls and paint breaks and then add the rest of the decals. I know that I will probably get a bunch of different answers based on personal preference, but on real 1:1 race cars the car is cleared, and then the decals are put on. I guess I am asking more from a contest standpoint. Yes the clear does blend the decals into the finish, but what do most judges look for? Opinions requested.

Hey guys; I thought that I would throw out a heads up to all of the Houston Area modelers who read this about the Model Mania Houston Show that is happening on April 4th 2009. I have attached a link to the info page. http://www.ipms-houston.org/ipms-houston.o...54/Default.aspx

Mike: It turned out pretty darn nice. Like Fujimilover said, "It's a race car, not a street/show car. I can't tell you how many kits I have in my closet that I have not finished because I did not like how they were turning out. I think we all share this flaw. Heck, I have re-painted the hood of the Ron Fellow's Sebring Vette 4 times now, because of my perfectionist attitude. RW

It looks like you got the picture posting handled

Well: I took some great pictures of the Ron Fellows Body on a 50% completed chassis.

I got the first initial coat of clear on the Bad Boy Vettes, and I placed two decals on tonight. I included pictures of the first paint scheme as per the SMS Bad Boy Decals. The instructions are incorrect in this area as you can see by the pictures that follow. I worked on the interior of the Ron Fellows car tonight. I still need to add CF to areas of the drivers office, as well as a few etched pieces.

Mike: It's looking very good. Remove the window net. Courtesy of Jim Drew...............

I'm saying model: The reason is........ Something just does not look right with the cover over the convertible roof.

The painting instructions that come with the Scale Motorsport Bad Boy Decals are "WAY OFF"........... When I get the back end of these things repainted, I will show the before and after pictures, so that no one makes the same mistake I did.

I got the two Bad Boy Vettes shot with Black and Yellow last night. I used Zero paint. I opted for the Zero Brand, because they color matched the Yellow to the SMS decals. I noticed this morning that the demarcation lines that the instructions show do not match up correctly with the way the decals are printed. I am going to have the touch up the top rear portion so the decals work correctly. Enjoy the pictures.

Tonight I filled in the incorrect rear wing locating holes, measured, marked, and started cutting the new slots in the correct location. I painted and assembled the brakes and wheels. I used Alclad II Semi-Matte Aluminum on the wheels. Not much progress lately, just cleaning up the bodies, and tinkering with different assemblies.