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Posts posted by Casey
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I don't *think* this was mentioned previously, but now the animals (alligator, elephant, panda, etc.) make sense within the context of 1950's automotive fads:
https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/stuffed-animal-brake-lights.1332447/
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IIRC he traded it off as he got fairly far with the corrections but then stopped.
I did trade it off to someone here, but don't recall who it was. Once I took a long, hard look at the roof and how much work would be required to correct it-- not to mention the vague chassis shape, simplified suspension, etc., I decided to move on. The grille is the most challenging part to create, IMHO, due to its complex shape, so that alone would take a considerable amount of time.
The Jeep pickups are a prime example of if someone could 3D print a kit of one, they would likely sell because hopefully they would get all the proportions correct and it would be worth the higher price for an accurate kit.
Agree 100%, but the grille, being up front and the "face" of the vehicle, needs to be correct, especially if its the early Gladiator style.
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No Way is it this kit.
A a second hit off the New Tool 1985 Blazer, I'd guess.
Given Revell's penchant for getting the scale incorrect on it's new release flyers, I wouldn't bet on either one. They could surprise us all with the '78 Chevy 4x4, too.
The Blazer and a dune buggy has been done before:
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That old Jeep PU...am I the only one that is bothered by the horrendous front end design of the kit?
And then there's the roof...🤦♂️ Too bad, as it's the only J-series Jeep in bi-scale, but, it's a lot of work to correct, and you are still left with a Ceji-era Revell dud-of-a-kit.
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1) I wonder what the “High Roller” refers to for the GMC Jimmy?
Basically this kit, from a few years ago. Might have the original kit's graphics/decals this time around?
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Just FYI, the Alumilite Casting Resin is a very poor choice for beginners. It leaves you very little time for proper mixing and sets very quickly-- both not ideal when you are still trying to get the hang of it. Get something with a longer pot life and slower cure time.
Buy yourself an accurate scale which reads in grams, a good plastic measuring cup or two with a pour spout, and toss out anything porous you might use to mix the two parts together-- the less air you introduce the better. If you are meticulous and have great close-up vision, you should be able to make small parts without deep undercuts in one-part molds without a vacuum de-gassing your mold rubber first. It works, but you will likely quickly see the benefits or properly de-gassed mold rubber, as well as the benefits of using a pressure chamber when casting the parts.
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Not at ALL helpful for your question, but I was curious how well you liked it…I was planning on doing some more casting here soon and didn’t really Hobby Lobby actually carried this…
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Might as well ask about the transmission too. Looks like an automatic, only two pedals.
The transmission in the kit is a GM 700R4 or 4L60 (same trans, updated name) and is a respectable replica of the real thing.
The separate oil pan, however, is not terribly accurate, but does retain the square overall shape. The kit's pan is almost perfectly square, with straight sides, while the real pan's left and right sides are the only straight sides. It would have been nice to get greater accuracy considering how visible this part is on the finished model:
Real oil pan: -
Revell/Monogram's 1970 Buick GSX has a 455 mated to a TH400 in 1:24.
Just a heads up on the 1/24 '70 Buick GSX TH-400. While it does look like a TH-400 in almost all areas, the top of the bellhousing area does not have the correct shape for a Buick-Olds-Pontiac (B-O-P) transmission. You can't see the top of the bellhousing area once the drivetrain is installed, so probably not a deal breaker for most people.
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Thanks, Mark.
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1/25 AMT Li'l Roamin' Chariot
in Car Kit News & Reviews
Posted
Looks like this one's coming back: