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Casey

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Everything posted by Casey

  1. Looks like this one's coming back: AMT-1487 1/25 Li'l Roamin' Chariot Show Rod
  2. Stopped at the new Ollie's in West Bend, WI earlier today and saw these three-- $12.99 for the Stingaree, $24.99 for the other two.
  3. I don't *think* this was mentioned previously, but now the animals (alligator, elephant, panda, etc.) make sense within the context of 1950's automotive fads: https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/stuffed-animal-brake-lights.1332447/
  4. I did trade it off to someone here, but don't recall who it was. Once I took a long, hard look at the roof and how much work would be required to correct it-- not to mention the vague chassis shape, simplified suspension, etc., I decided to move on. The grille is the most challenging part to create, IMHO, due to its complex shape, so that alone would take a considerable amount of time. Agree 100%, but the grille, being up front and the "face" of the vehicle, needs to be correct, especially if its the early Gladiator style.
  5. Given Revell's penchant for getting the scale incorrect on it's new release flyers, I wouldn't bet on either one. They could surprise us all with the '78 Chevy 4x4, too. The Blazer and a dune buggy has been done before:
  6. Body shell, with some perilously thin sections:
  7. And then there's the roof...🤦‍♂️ Too bad, as it's the only J-series Jeep in bi-scale, but, it's a lot of work to correct, and you are still left with a Ceji-era Revell dud-of-a-kit.
  8. Basically this kit, from a few years ago. Might have the original kit's graphics/decals this time around?
  9. Just FYI, the Alumilite Casting Resin is a very poor choice for beginners. It leaves you very little time for proper mixing and sets very quickly-- both not ideal when you are still trying to get the hang of it. Get something with a longer pot life and slower cure time. Buy yourself an accurate scale which reads in grams, a good plastic measuring cup or two with a pour spout, and toss out anything porous you might use to mix the two parts together-- the less air you introduce the better. If you are meticulous and have great close-up vision, you should be able to make small parts without deep undercuts in one-part molds without a vacuum de-gassing your mold rubber first. It works, but you will likely quickly see the benefits or properly de-gassed mold rubber, as well as the benefits of using a pressure chamber when casting the parts.
  10. https://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/topic/178677-alumilite-alumires-resin-casting-kits-no-longer-at-hobby-lobby/
  11. https://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/topic/36556-in-line-6-cylinder-engines-what-kits-have-them/
  12. The transmission in the kit is a GM 700R4 or 4L60 (same trans, updated name) and is a respectable replica of the real thing. The separate oil pan, however, is not terribly accurate, but does retain the square overall shape. The kit's pan is almost perfectly square, with straight sides, while the real pan's left and right sides are the only straight sides. It would have been nice to get greater accuracy considering how visible this part is on the finished model: Real oil pan:
  13. Just a heads up on the 1/24 '70 Buick GSX TH-400. While it does look like a TH-400 in almost all areas, the top of the bellhousing area does not have the correct shape for a Buick-Olds-Pontiac (B-O-P) transmission. You can't see the top of the bellhousing area once the drivetrain is installed, so probably not a deal breaker for most people.
  14. MPC or AMT looks like, but not sure which kit(s):
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