Ddms

Yet another application for one of my favorite tools, two-sided carpet tape! Unlike masking tapes, it comes with a stiff backing, so it's easy to trim to a precise shape. You can leave the backing on - or attach a piece of styrene sheet - to make a solid edge to follow with your scribing tool. (Get the tool that's made in Pakistan. They're available from Squadron, Micro Mark and other places. Once you've used one of these, you'll never again try to scribe a panel gap with the back of a #11 Xacto blade.) I use carpet tape a lot. Attached to a paddle, it's perfect for holding small parts while I paint them. It can also be stuck to a work surface, where it holds PE and other small parts for gluing. Ddms

The best deal around is U-POL. It's made in England, and it's available in the U.S. at the Sam Ditchek & Sons website. It's very similar to TS-13. A giant half-liter can costs something like $5.95 and will probably clear-coat ten 1/24 cars and 30 43s. They call it the "Power Can" and it's intended for professional auto painters. I much prefer it to 2k urethane; it's easily as good as TS-13. The only drawback is that, if you put on the first coat too wet and heavy, it will ruin decals just like TS-13. But it doesn't produce that high carbo dipped-in-Aunt Jemima's look that some of us dislike so much, ChillyB.

I mix them together. Just about anything except 2-part automotive urethane can be stripped with CSC + a dollop of 91% alcohol. Stripping time will vary depending on the type of paint and how long it's cured. For some reason, metallic synthetic lacquers - like Tamiya TS series - seem to take longer than non-metallics. This hobby is supposed to be fun. I personally do not enjoy working with highly toxic stuff like brake fluid and oven cleaner. Ddms

Leave it on. I'm "re-chroming" some small suspension parts with Alclad II, and I've just been through the same worry. I got some great advice and didn't touch it, and it worked out just fine. Black enamel sticks just fine to that coating. It's very smooth, a perfect surface for the Alclad. If you're working on small parts like I was, there's also a risk of damaging them in trying to remove it. Ddms

Some time ago I managed to ruin a fine little Provence Moulage resin kit of the Simca Gordini coupe that Fangio DNF'd in the 1950 Le Mans 24 Hours race. That car has been on my mind ever since. In the meantime, my modeling skills have improved considerably, and I want to tackle the model again. I realize that Top Model makes a diecast, and there's also a Paradcar monte, but I'm obsessed with the PM kit. If anyone knows where I can find it for a fair price, I'm willing to pay a small reward if I buy it. Thanks. Ddms

It sure is! It's also useful for attaching windows and other lightweight items. It looks and "handles" a lot like white glue but it's actually contact cement, minus the gooey strings. It only takes a thin line or small dot to get good adhesion, no clamps required! It not only works well, it's a pleasure to use. Diddy