Red96

Dzus plates, maybe?

ASA9610

If I'm not mistaken, 1K Urethanes cure from the humidity in the air. The environment inside of a dehydrator would retard, rather than advance the curing rate of a coating that requires humidity to kick. Dehydrators would be great - for evaporative solvent type of coatings. But not all coatings work by an evaporative solvent type of transfer method. I'm at a loss to explain the problem with the lacquer clear however. Unless.. it's a Nitrocellulose type of clear, like they use on wood instruments. (Which I doubt) NC clears are notorious for taking weeks to cure due to the material skinning over and trapping in the solvents. Also NC clears 'cure' best at a relative humidity around 50%, so again the dehydrator is working against the material.... IF it is a NC clear.

Yeah, if it is thin it is definately not the Sikkens stuff. Curious to hear this one out...

It looks to have a simular appearance as an old Sikkens epoxy primer that was popular with body shops and restorers from back in the 80's & early 90's. Many stripped bare metal bodies were primed with this to keep the bare bodies from flash-rusting. Body fillers could be put over this with great success, and it had dynamite corrosion resistance. High build too. Can't for the life of me remember the P/N, but it want to say it had '200' in it as best I can recall... If that Sikkens product is what your primer is, you're probably only getting it off by sanding as nothing is likely to break down that epoxy that won't also destroy the plastic. The DOT3 brake fluid idea is intriguing though....MIGHT work? Anything else coated with the primer, other than the body, that you could test with?

I agree, the stuff does stiffen in a few months. If it's around that long, guys in the shops add a little Plastic Honey resin to soften it back up, despite the pinholes that result. Plus crappy sandability and feathering. Sounds like we share the luxury of easy access, but I agree, not an ideal choice for many.

14 x 5 was the wheel size for non-SS/non Z-28. Plain steel wheel (B Code) for drum brakes; Rally wheel (DA Code) for discs . 14 x 6 was the stock wheel for the SS; an optional wheel for the base model. Also a plain steel wheel (FC Code) for drum brakes; Rally wheel (DG Code) for discs. 15 x 6 Rally (DF Code) was the Z/28 wheel. Ooops, Erik beat me to it! 😊

This product is very finely ground, stable, and sands quite nicely. Shown is the 30 oz. "Pump-tainer". They also sell in a 16oz pouch. Available online. 3M makes a simular product, but Evercoat's sands more easily IMO. Sorry about the pic size - still figuring out pics here.