ModWrench

Ordered two kits from A-1 Raceworks 3D Resin Prints. A vintage Dirt Modified and a Super modified. Impressed with the great print quality and excellent detail on the chassis and suspension parts. Received within the quoted 3 week delivery time once ordered and payed for. I'll touch up a few areas with some light sanding and shoot some primer and see how everything looks. Check out their website at: www.A1Raceworks.com

I was in my local hobby shop over the weekend. They had a Gofer Racing sheet with the Bell decals (2 of them) on it. It is sheet # 11035 "Stuff Sheet #3." He was selling them for $10 a sheet. You can check online stores that sell Gofer decals to order that sheet.

Really like your build! From what I understand, Larry Baisch of Big Donkey is still casting all of the resin parts that are sold through Mike's Decals site. The story I heard was that Larry wanted to concentrate on producing the parts, so he made an arrangement with Mike to handle the "business transaction" side of the deal and take care of the customer ordering, billing and fulfillment through his website. That frees Larry up and he continues to cast the parts as needed.

I saw a post on another site that stated this year’s show will be Sunday November 24th, 2024. To commemorate the last year (for now) of the Chevy Camaro, the special theme class will be any year of the Camaro. I'm looking for an event flyer to confirm the date, but it was around that same date last year.

Rolled the dice on an auction and picked up this IMC Mark IV kit. Received last night and after a quick inventory it appears all of the parts are in the box. Subassemblies started and painted. Want to strip a lot of the brush-painted parts and re-shoot. Didn't have a lot of time last night, but was excited enough to spend an hour or so sanding injector pin marks of the inside on the body panels and mold lines off the rear fenders. Decals are toast so need to check out what Indycals has available.

Success! James, I took your suggestion and tried a couple of small drill bits. Thanks for the tip! I got one to bite, but small pieces of the packing were coming out, not the entire unit. I then stuck a wire cleaning brush in the donut, pumped some lacquer thinner in the barrel, and worked the brush back and forth several times. The packing came out on the third try. I'll order a new packing assembly from SprayGunner and see if this gun gets back into rotation soon. Greg & Michael, I appreciate you both responding too. I have the service manual and will refer to it if the new packing unit doesn't 100% solve the issue.

I have a Paasche Raptor gravity feed, double action airbrush. Has become my workhouse and has performed fine for a couple of years, never had any problems with it. I sprayed some AK Interactive Satin Varnish Thursday night and performed my normal cleaning routine (for this brand used lacquer thinner) when I completed my paint session. Went to use it last night and the needle was completely stuck - i could pull the trigger but the needle wasn't moving. I dumped some lacquer thinner in the cup and let it sit thinking it might free up the needle. Perhaps I was too impatient, but I pulled on the rocker assembly/spring hosing and got the needle moving. Broke the brush down and did a full cleaning. When I attempted to spray some cleaner to test it, it acted like I was back flushing - bubbles backing up through the cup and no fluid moving out the tip. I broke it back down and removed the needle packing screw. The screw came out no problem, but the Teflon donut is still in the airbrush shell. I've tried using a paper clip with a small hook at the end, coming in from the rear of the shell to slip through the needle donut and pull it with no luck. I've also tried coming in from the front of the shell with an old needle and pushing it towards the back with no movement. Looking for suggestions that you have employed in this situation to remove the packing or tools that will get the job done without wrecking the airbrush.

In my rush to try and beat the entry deadline for this Facebook site build-off, I bollixed up a few things. I was required to post only one photo to qualify for the build-off, so I cobbled the thing together and shot these pics and made the entry cutoff. Disappointed and frustrated, I walked away from it and the model has been sitting on my bench for a couple of weeks. I will get back at it in short order when I get in the right frame of mind to finish it.

Snake Prudhomme Monza - cleaned up all the mold lines on the body and stripped the chrome.

Made good headway this weekend on my build-off car. Got the big block buttoned up, ran some plumbing in the chassis, tires mounted up, body parts all painted two-tone and started to lay down some graphics. Still lots to do, but will definitely make the March 29 entry deadline!

Finally got some time and painted the chassis and a bunch of parts. Putting the engine together now while paint is drying.

Thanks Jim. I started a new thread under "WIP - Other Racing" and added some new pics there. Will add to that build thread as I make progress.

Scratch built a top wing and added the mounting spuds on top of the cage. This car ran a small wing offset to the left. I got it pretty close to the reference shots I have. Also got body panels and a dash made from sheet styrene.

Building a replica of the '79 Syracuse Supernationals race-winning car driven by PA icon Smokey Snellbaker. There will be lots of scratch building on this one to make it look like the car from 1979 as-run at the race that year. Started by laying out the Evergreen rod and drew up plans to create a Lloyd sprint car chassis. Used the bottom rails from an old Monogram frame and scratch built the cage and lowered the top frame rails to accommodate the big block Chevy engine that this car ran.

That is a cool looking roadster. Really like that flathead - will have to do a little research on that Jiggler race motor! FYI, the link to the build folder didn't work for me, but I clicked on the Fotki site in your signature block and accessed it hat way.