Johnnycrash

Cool. So, just to be clear on this... If I did want to offer up these PE parts, I have to have them in hand and 1) Offer them on emodelcars.com, or 2) Make an announcement of a new product, and post a link to my website. Am I correct?? What I would like to do is this; See how many people would be intersted in this item, make that many, and then sell them to those interested. I don't want to make 20, and then only move 3. I also offer up to do some other custom stuff to fill out the sheet, not just the stuff I have come up with. Pretty much whatever you might need done. Gregg, do you take bribes??

Hey all to those in charge or in the know, I made a few parts for myself (photo-etch), and I would like to see if anyone else would want some. It's not likely to become a part of my catalogue. I am making a few more, now that I have refined the design from my prototype. This is basicly a custom job, and once it's done, there will be, likely, no more made. I have room on the PE sheet I am doing, so would like to fill it out a bit, and help cover my costs, of course. What's the protocal for something like this?? Or is it a case of "Nothing to be sold except on emodelcars", plain and simple. Is there a section for anouncing new products?? Or in this case, custom parts??

Thank you all. It's been nice and quiet all day so far. Just the way I like them. And with taking the day off from my regular duties, I still managed to get NO modeling done.

Hey Mike, Would you happen to have some pics of the Modelhaus Service Bed?? Be intresting to have a look see. Thanks.

OK. That wagon is just too dang cool. I like. A lot. I have several wagon conversions planned. Nothing like being able to get the groceries. At 2 seconds per block!! As for comments... Hey!! It was St. Patrick's day. Everyone was out getting drunk. And maybe most where so stunned by what a really cool project it is, and mad at themselves for not thinking of it themselves.

Thanks. But, this project is on hold. I guess he wants to wait until the car is finialized. Makes sense. He's not totally sure where the project is going. So... And it has to be 1/24 or 1/25. He has a few other cars (die casts) that he want's it to go with. So, 1/20 won't work. Oh well. Looks like this wont be happening for at least 6 months anyways.

Thanks Art. That would be a great help. If, IF, I was building a stock '29. Things changed. If you read my last post, you will see that he's going Hotrod with it.

Good news, I don't have to worry about it being stock anymore. Turns out, he is going full hotrod. http://www.schwartzwelding.com/gallery/10.html So, I can start with that '29 ford I have. For when I am done, it will have to have a fully scratch chassis, with custom wheels and tires. I don't know exactly what his final plans are, but I am sure it will require much bodywork. I am sad to say though, a very fine '29 is toast. He could have at least just started with a rusted body. Oh well.

Dang! I was hoping this might be an easy, fast build for the guy. Been looking at the '29 Ford... A conversion could be done. But the '32 Chevy looks promising as well. But I already have the Ford. So, more research is needed. I need to see the real one, with the little Ford in hand. That will help alot. Thanks guys.

Hey gang, So, I get a call from my dad, asking about a 1929 Chevy 3 Window Coupe. A friend of his at work has a 1/1, and would like a mini version. But, I can't seem to find a kit of one. Is that my inability to search, or the fact that there was never a kit of one of these?? These are NOT of his car. His is currently stripped down for restoration. But this is what I am looking for.

In Ontario yes. But NORHERN Ontario. T.O. is a 9 hour drive from here. So, to answer your question, no, I will not be going. I hope to get out to more (any) shows next year.

awbcrazy - I know what you mean about the washes dulling thing down. I usually try and do a little rubbing and buffing to get the shine back. And I have several of the fineline pens has well. Mine are by Staedtler. They are great for those grilles. I also find they work great on body panel lines, door handles, and such. raisin27 - Nice work there. That '55 open grille just pops doesn't it?? The open grilles takes away the toy like quality. And what is the lower image of?? It looks familiar, but I can't place it right now. It, of course, looks great opened up.

So, open if it can be done in away that preserves the 3D elements of the real deal. Makes sense. A flat version of a 3d object is just a drawing. And real light buckects with clear textured lens?? BTW, some nice work there. I spend all of my time making masters and casting. Well, and PLANNING builds. Maybe I'll get something done this fall. I need to do 8 builds for my dad (2x cars, 5x trucks, and a pontoon boat). I am making progress... Slowly.

In that case, not too much of an issue. Since they are different cars, the size difference will not be too evident. Now, two of the exact same year, make and model (in diferent scales) would really show. Just don't park them next to each other.

Welcome (from a relative newbie). The difference between 1/24 and 1/25 is 4%. Not much, but can be very noticable with the same subject placed next to each other. And, the kit manufactures vary on size as well. Not all the proportion are right on every kit. So even two kits (same subject) in scale X, from different manufactures placed next to each other might look all wonky.

Yeah, not every kit grille lends it's self to being opened up. The '65 Impala grille works nice, as does the '99 Chevy CK grille. The old Monogram '57 Chevy, not so much. But, with that one, the grille was just a flat piece of stamped metal. So a PE piece is PERFECT!!! And that's what I am doing there. Much grinding and chopping on the kit part is needed to open it up for the PE part. Ugh. One of the issues with kit parts is that they need to be mastered in such away as to be injection molded. Us resin guys don't have those same issues. Some detail at scale can be done with flat pieces, some cannot. PE, if done right, for the right kit, can look really cool. But if the grille bars need to be round, or have other detail that can not be done with flat stock, then it ain't worth the trouble. A good paint job, and a fine wash will look WAY better. But, on the other tenticle, if the grille bars can be made to have the detail needed, then an open grille looks SO much better. As for the headlights, I don't have the '58 Impala kit. And I don't know why... Umm. Anyways. I think the depth is needed there for sure. I was thinking that a gloss headlight surface with a decal representing the hatch patern (that's on the inside), and then a good gloss clear coat might do the same thing?? But I guess it might look like the "headlights" on funny and stock cars. The depth comes from "seeing" the bucket and the lamp inside itself. And all those reflections. While marker lights tend to be less transparent, you can get away with a good paint colour, or a clear over chrome/silver/bmf. The larger scale guy's can add much more detail that way, as the parts aren't so small. But in 1/24(25), it's a another deal.

So, what do you prefer?? Do you like to have the grille slots open, so you can see the innerards?? Or do you leave them closed, and just add the depth with paint and a wash?? I always find it a little "flat" when the grille is closed. Sometimes you need to replace all the grille with PE or some strip plastic to better replicate the grille. But I think it makes for a more realistic look. Really ads depth to the look, because in the real deal, you can see inbehind it. Not always much to look at, a rad, a rad support, maybe a few wires and lamp buckets... Would you pay more (or less) for one version or the other?? I mean, if there were replacement grilles for a car/truck/rig/whatever, and there were two versions, one with open grille, and one with closed grille, and the closed grille was cheaper than the open grille, which would you buy?? (wow, what a long sentence). Thoughts?? After thought: What about open lamp buckets with a clear lens to cover it?? Adds the same depth I talked about above. Or, closed, solid style headlight??

Easy Off oven cleaner. Safe for all plastics, and will not fog clear parts. Use the pump bottle, coat well, and let sit for 30 minutes (in a well ventilated area like a bathroom with a exhaust fan). Use an old toothbrush (or a roommate's you don't like) and rinse and scrub the model. You may need to repeat to get all the nooks and crannies.

Cool. I'll see what I can whip up. Been a bit busy with other things. But I'll get back to these extra designs soonest.

Well, I didn't say I wouldn't do it. Just that I thought it was ugly!! Do you like that design specifically, or just the concept??

WOW!! That's ugly. I mean, I get the idea of these cab over bed extenders. But this design... What's going on on the top there?? Man!! There are so many lines, levels, directions, slopes...

Good question. Since this wasn't one of the designs I was going to do, it's a one-off. And well, that means more of a cost. But, I'll run some numbers, and let you know what I can do. Do you need just one?? You should buy two, just in case.

Well scew you then. Geesh!! You'll also notice that all the handles and logos are missing too. No point adding those, the get added to last minute anyways, not part of the master. Uh?? No.

BigBlockLyle - So, will this do??

Smokin Models - Yes, it will fit the 99 Siverado kit. BigBlockLyle - Send on the pictures. I have many other deisgn completed now. I'll try and get around to posting the renders. I'll need to pick and choose which ones to do first. I would like to get them ALL done, but it's a matter of seed money, or lack thereof. I have two other designs to do that are giving me no end of grief.