Junkman

Or a Porsche 928 if you chop and section it

OK, this is what I want to know. - What is going to be reissued? - Who do I have to contact to get on the waiting list now? - What is the paypal address I have to send an advance payment to? There are a few more technical questions, if I may. - It always was my understanding, that the remaining inventory ended up with Okey Spaulding. Is, or is this not the case? - Aren't Jo-Han molds made in a rather unconventional way, in so far as there are two so-called 'hobs' into which mold inserts have to be - well - inserted. The molds made up of those hobs with their inserts are not working in standard molding machines. Is this correct, or not? - Isn't what I just described the primary reason so few models were reissued by X-El, rather than molds being incomplete? Please correct me if I'm wrong, but more than a few people have not suceeded to combine the mold pieces in a useable way. What makes you sure that you will succeed? Please understand that the latter questions are just based on mixed information I have from various sources. I may sound a tad impatient, but I wanted to ask these questions for the better part of 20 years now and might be overly excited to potentially finally have found the person who can answer them. I do understand that you have quite a few advances to pay before anything gets rolling. What I wrote intitially is meant to be thaken seriously. I am willing and prepared to pay for the models now. I have paid and then waited years for models to arrive when Seville was still porducing X-ELs, so this is nothing new for me. I repeat, I have the money available now and would be prepared to place a paid pre-order.

Yes, Future is called Kleer in the UK, it's exactly the same stuff and I use it a lot. Many thanks for the research you did witht he Design master stuff, I might give it a try. And many, many thanks to all for your wonderful tips. I knew other people must have run into this problem before me. For those who are interested why I raised the question at this time, the case in point is actually that 1:18 scale Maisto Dodge I'm reworking. It has a red interior. In the olden days I had a simple solution for model kits molded in red - paint them red. This is the first time I actually want to change the colour of red plastic.

That's almost worth a 'where do you build your models?' thread. I know a guy who has a travelling occupation and builds kits in hotel rooms. A late friend of mine worked for the railway and built models while on duty in the signal box. But in the sleeper of a truck? I'm amazed. Honestly amazed.

Tell ya guys, there are a million ways to completely devalue a pristine vintage plastic kit within seconds. And I know a lot about that.

OK, maybe IPMS is indeed targeted too much to people who think wars are beautiful and don't last long enough. In Europe, model car shows are often tied in with real car shows, or rather 'meetings'. There are enough car crazy folks in Switzerland. Maybe it would be worth trying to contact custom car and hot rod clubs? Here is a list of some clubs in Switzerland: http://www.uscc.ch/de/index.php?file=links.php&titel=Clubs%20in%20der%20Schweiz&adv=norm&teilerg=ch

Yes, same with the Hybrids, like the Prius. If you are all out for polar-bear-friendly motoring, you are getting branded with totally stupid looking machines so all the world can see how advanced and modern your mindset is. Entirely btw., electricity is of course created by magic.

You know what? Since silver is also made by the devil, I will give this a try.

The Nissan factory in Sunderland is also producing a new electric car that is unable to get as far as Doncaster. The Leaf, backed by £21m of taxpayers' money, has been specially designed so that if it is driven out of the factory after rush hour on a Thursday morning it will grind to a state-of-the-art halt on the A1 approximately 100 miles later. A company spokesman said: "It should get you at least as far as Knottingley, if you keep it at 28 all the way and ignore red lights and stuff. "The absolute furthest it would get you is probably about two miles north of Burghwallis, which - as I'm sure everyone would agree - is almost Doncaster. When you phone for a cab tell them to pick you up from the pub." The spokesman admitted it would be difficult to recharge the car in the middle of the South Yorkshire countryside due to Britain's 'scandalous shortage' of incredibly long extension leads. He added: "You may as well just abandon it by the side of the road. But they only cost about twenty thousand quid so you'll probably have at least five of them." The company stressed the car would be more attractive to people who lived in urban areas, close to their place of work who had always wanted to have a long cable running from their third floor kitchen window down into the street like some sort of Action Man death slide. The spokesman said: "We are building up the infrastructure so that in five years time you'll be able to go to Tesco for your weekly shop and then nip into the recharging station for about 16 hours." Meanwhile, the company has developed a range of marketing slogans including 'The Leaf - Quite Good For Sitting In' and 'The Leaf - Because You Hate People So Much You Can't Even Spend 15 Minutes on a Bus'."

HoK doesn't ship to Europe

Will Future sustain being coated with enamel, or would the cellulose thinner destroy it?

OK, but which sealer? Or better: What exactly is sealer? I can't find any product labelled as such.

Being in Europe, I'm naturally used to Dupli Color. It definitely is slightly more aggressive than other automotive spray paints I have used and I do not recommend using it on old annuals. Also, IMO Dupli Color primer should be avoided altogether, unless you follow the advice of the people who have replied to this thread already. They seem to have mastered what I failed at. I use an automotive primer made by Holts (not sure whether it is sold in the US, it's a division of Sonax) and find it much less agressive than Duco. As has been said before, it needs to cure for several days until you can shoot Duco paint, and if you do, start with really thin layers, i.e. just fogging, until you have the model completely coated. Again, let it cure for several days. Then carefully wet sand and shoot your final layer. The fogged on layers from a few days back act like a barrier. But... Dupli Color works a treat on resin kits! If sprayed on hot enough, you can achieve a fairy tale gloss with it.

No matter how many layers of primer I use, that ruddy stuff is bleeding through. Forget about wanting to paint it white or yellow, it'll always turn pink or orange. How do you lads cope with this? Is there a trick?

Problem is you must spray candy in very, very thin layers to prevent it from running away from edges and door shut lines. To get the balance right between just foggig on a layer of candy and at the same time get it smooth I find extremely challenging.

Not trying to push you in any way (or let's presume I'm not), but how are you getting on with this build?

It looks beautiful. What keeps you away from finishing it?

Try him instead:

That is one of my pet hates. If I list it for auction and people pester me with a BIN price. It must be motivated by this 'instant gratification still takes too long' mentality so common nowadays. Well, I have no mercy with them

That's by far the smartest career move I've ever seen. Beats mine by lightyears.

Here's mine in a nutshell: 1) Anxiously open the box, get a whiff of the slightly morbid smell of decades old, in dignity embrittled styrene. 2) Get another whiff. 3) Get a real deep drag. 4) Thoroughly inspect the contents of the box, imagine what to use and what to change. 5) Do some research regarding colour availability on the real car, buy an old colour chart if I don't have it already, discover that all of them were atrocious. If I don'thave it already, buy an original sales brochure. Those can be sold on once the model is finished. 6) Envision each and every colour combination that was available. See whether the car was used ina movie on IMCDB.org. Decide on the most attractive version. This process can take years. 7) Try to match the original paint I have decided on. This process can also take years. 8) Clean up the body, fill in all sink marks or other imperfections, primer it. 9) Shoot the body with the carefully selected paint. 10) Pack everything back into the box and never look at the kit again.

You can pick those up dirt cheap. I think I picked this one up when it was on sale at a local toy shop a few years back. IIRC I paid 10 quid for it. Anyway, I finished painting the body, clearcoat and all:

So far I have always avoided the Monogram kit for obvious reasons, but it looks so much better in the pics than the AMT. How does it work out scale-wise, when you put it next to - let's say - an AMT '65 Goat?

I can watch the radio. For hours. In colour. Yes, I do play the guitar. At least that's what I say. Others may disagree. http://www.sectionz.com/@player.asp?rType=mp3&SZID=29847 http://www.sectionz.com/@player.asp?rType=mp3&SZID=31144

Gosh, being quick sure is one of you guys' strengths