Junkman

Here is a link: http://www.uniquecarsandparts.com.au/jagua...cifications.htm that contains a table with the intitially available colour/interior combinations for the MKII. Interestingly, 'neutral' or tan leather was not available, neither was black. If I remember right, that same table is included in the instructions of the Tamiya kit. Towards the late Sixties, there were a few more colours available, amongst others a rather smashing swimming pool turquise and a rather revolting bronze. Also, Jaguar always had a quite liberal policy regarding special orders.

Thank you. I do have the Revell AG XK-SS. I also have an old Lindberg D-Type - and a plan in my mind... The problem is, I won't live long enough to do all this.

Thanks for the kind words. The interior isn't really that shiny. It only appears that way on the photo. The woodgrain is included in the kit - as decals! It fits perfectly. Tamiya, you know. Tamiya is so good, even I can build proper models from their kits.

Erm. Which part would that be? BTW.,I think it's quite easy to cut the hood so it can open. How will you replicate the Chinese silk interior? I'm talking about this interior: http://www.supercars.net/Pics?viewPic=y&am...1&pID=15880 I have never figured out a way how to replicate this. This and the fact that the car is black are the reasons why I never attempted to build this model.

Another out of the box build. It has flocked carpet and the colour is original Jaguar Gun Metal Grey. The model is patterned after a real Jag MKII I recently restored. The long term plan is to build five of them, all in original colours. Then build a Sixties English car tansporter towed by a Bedord S Type I have in resin. I'm only afraid I won't live that long...

It is a nice colour. Especially when it is complemented with that cream seen on the pic of the Chevy wagon. I'm tempted to use this combination on my 1/25th scale 57 Chevy. On the 1/12th I would like to go with something custom. I do like the cherry red one very much, but this will be hard to do in 1/12 if you are not equipped with a fairly large sized airbrush.

Slight correction once more. Bugatti only built six of the Royale chassis. The seventh was built by the Schlumpf brothers in the Sixties. The Royale Victoria was based on the second Royale chassis built by Bugatti (chassis no. 41121). It was sold new in 1932 to a German obstetrician named Josef Fuchs. The price for the chassis alone was 41,000 $, in 1932 depression era money. So much for your 20,000 stated elsewhere in this thread. 20k bought you a complete Duesenberg including a custom body. The Royale chassis alone was more than twice that much. The car was the first Royale to receive Rembrandt Bugatti's Elephant sculpture as a radiator mascot, at the request of Dr. Fuchs. The Victoria coachwork was made by Munich coachbuilder Weinberger. This body is still on the car as it stands in the Henry Ford Museum, but unfortunately it is painted an ugly shade of cream ("oyster white") and green. Originally Dr. Fuchs had his Royale painted in black with yellow outlines. This original colour scheme can be seen on Gerald Wingrove's model, pictures of which are on his website. Oh, and it was indeed the block that had cracked in Winter 1937-1938. The manifold with the four Stromberg carbs was fabricated in addition to repairing the block during the restoration of the car. I really like the buildup of the Coupe Napoleon. It honestly does the real car justice. I always postponed building a Royale, because I'm scared of painting anything black. May I ask which paint and technique you used?

There is only one explanation: There is no oil left to leak in your BSA. You better fill it up soon.

3.8 Litre, why?

I'm currently restoring a real series 1 roadster. If you would like to have detail photos, please just let me know of what and I'll post them here. My car is on its wheels with the engine and drivetrain installed, but no interior yet.

I did my duty and preordered one. So don't blame me if the model is a disappointment in the sales department. This Scott and his lads from HLJ seem to be quite well off with what I pay them lately. Check out the palace he's built recently.

I live about 50 miles from SEF, mostly motorway and I'm a professional speeder. From London itsself, it's just a stone throw really. To my knowledge, they don't have a retail store. You just kick in the front door. This is England after all. When in Rome, do like Romanians, as they say. No, seriously. If you contact them and make an appointment, they happily show you round their facilities and you even get a cuppa. If you PM me with your tour dates, let's see if we can set something up. You are more than welcome to my home. So is everybody else from this forum btw, who is dare enough to venture into its proximity. I'm located in Berkshire, right between Reading and Windsor and the M3 and M4 corridor. This is about 30 miles west of London and roughly 45 miles east of the middle of nowhere.

I love the box art. It is so realistic. Note the differential oil puddle which explains why the car isn't participating in the race.

Thanks for the hints. I wonder if the skalecraft guy is still in business, haven't heard or seen anything for quite some time. He had some amazing stuff, to say the least. Southeastern Finecast is just half an hour away from me (the way I drive), so I'll pay them a visit one of these days.

Yes, I once built the Hasegawa Cosmo kit, albeit not the race version. It is a marvellous kit of a stunningly beautyful car and goes together really, really well. An added bonus are the photoetched scriptplates. Wonderful. I don't own the model anymore, otherwise I would post pics. Coincidentally, as of this writing, I have another kit shipped over though. Again, not the race version. It will be built, but it is not next in my queue. The LB 110 Mazda Cosmo must be the second car in automotive history that packed a Wankel engine. Too bad it's not rendered in this kit.

This is not fair! Think of all the industry firsts Lucas introduced: Lucas is the patent holder for the short circuit. Lucas invented the first intermittent wiper, the self-dimming headlamp and the original Anti-Theft device. And if Lucas made guns, wars would not start either. There are strict laws for British sports cars, which can be found here: http://www.team.net/sol/humour/car_laws.html There is an FAQ: http://www.team.net/sol/humour/faq.html Gosh, telling Lucas jokes is indeed black humor. And a real gentleman doesn't motor after dark anyway. Oh, How do you get two whales in a Mini? Up the M5 to Cannock then follow the signs to Llangollen.

Agree. This is actually quite easy to work on. Surprisingly even the real car is.

Now that you said it, youare right. It has been a while since I saw the rally kit. There also was a club racer version with hardtop and minilite wheels, which is even more elusive. What I really wonder is whether there are suitable Rostyle wheels out there somewhere.

I'm not aware of any superdetailing kits. But I converted mine to right hand drive and it isn't really that difficult. I also cut open the tailgate (which is side hinged on the real thing, something that never ceases to amaze me) and the fuel filler flap. I'll dig up the project from the garage these days and post pics and an explanation how to do the RHD conversion. Stay tuned.

This is MAXIMUM! I've never seen anybody before who could get this out of these old Jo-Han kits.

Thanks. Still, it is an MGB, not a Midget. And I am glad that I only build the model, not tinker around with the real thing. Building this model nicely is not that much of an achievement, because it is an excellent kit to begin with. As for a real MGB, I think the only sensible thing to do is replace it with an MX5.

Thanks. Yes, as I said, I opted for the rubber bumper just to be different. With the original Aoshima kits, you had to select which version you bought. The Airfix issue, made from the Aoshima tooling, contains both versions. You are right, if you buiild the model out of the box, it will have the rubber bumper ride height by default, no matter what. To lower it is quite easy. In the back, all you have to do is cut the coils. Up front, it's a tad more complicated, but I'd just cut off the axle stubs and re-drill the kingpins, then use piano wire for the stub axles.

There is only one thing wrong with your Mercury that I can see: It isn't mine once it's finished. Great work!

Your experience is indeed typical of them. When it was cold, they wouldn't start, when it rained, they leaked and on the rare occasions the sun put its hat on they overheated. The kit is the antidote of the real thing. It is beautifully molded, the proportions look spot on, the detailing is Aoshima at its finest (mind you, it is a curbside, but interior detailing and undercarriage are superb) and the kit goes really well together. Not a single curse on this one yet. As I said before, if you prefer to build the chrome bumper model, you should lower the suspension by roughly two scale inches. This will be a very straightforward job.

Oi, thanks! The paint I used was purchased about 40 miles west from where you live at my local B&Q. It is ordinary DIY 'Rally' green metallic in a can for a fiver a toss. The glitter is ordinary Plastikote green glitter, also from the rattle can, sold rougly 40 inches east of the 'Rally' green paint, i.e. the next shelf. Then you are in for about seven coats of Halfords rattle can acrylic clear. It's really that simple. All you have to do is wet sand each layer of the clear after coat three. I have used that stuff on 1/25 scale cars, but only on radical customs with not too much in terms of surface details, since the paint buildup is fairly high, so it would cover scripts and moldings. In fact, I just did a 1/24 Red Baron in red glitter over -you guessed it- 'Rally' red metallic. As for the model, it is indeed a Topolino. It's the so-called Luv Buggy from Lindberg. It also has a Topolino nosepiece, which isn't pictured yet.