Junkman

Mine is white just to annoy everybody by being different

This is one of my scratchbuilding projects. It's still in a very embryonic phase. You can read here what it is all about: http://www.brisca.com

This is one of my scratchbuilding projects. It's still in a very embryonic phase.

I can't believe my luck! After just one day (!) in the bleach, the entire paint was stripped. See:

I never was quite happy with the general body proportions of the 59 Revellogram Chevy which was released a decade and a half or so ago. Hence, I hunted down an original SMP 59 Chevy, since I believe they captured the real thing a lot better back then: The model is crudely handpainted in atrocious colours, the chrome is shot, the wheels are incorrect, the windscreen has crazed and the car had custom fender skirts (spats) installed with lots of glue. But The windscreen frame is undamaged (sensational for a 50 year old plastic kit!), the glue damage from the fender skirts is restricted to body surface only, so no detail is lost, and apart from the incorrect wheels, the model is complete! Hence I consider it restorable. General detail level leaves much to be desired, as would be exptected from a late 50s kit: I will therefore only use the slightly modified body from this model and 'marry' it to the underpinnings and chrome pieces from the AMT 59 Chevy El Camino. The interior I will use from the Revellogram 59 Impala. The first step in any restoration project is to disassemble the model. Once disassembled, this is what I got: The chassis will be discarded (stored) and the rest of the pieces are ready to be soaked in thick bleach to get the paint off. Two weeks in fresh bleach should lift off all paint. I will show you the parts after this is accomplished, so you will have to wait now.

Thanks to one of my decently stocked parts boxes all ingredients for a 409 were quickly found: Not sure whether I'm happy with the Muncie M22 crashbox though. Might cut it off and swap it for a Hydramatic. The body is now clearcoated, polished and foiled:

Had some leftover orange from the 57 Chevy project: Can't believe it, after 30 years looking at this kit, I finally got into it. And the golden pearl is added: Next is clearcoat. I want to build this into a 1960s street machine but without any body mods except for the pearl paint. It will get a slight rake, achieved only by lowering it in the front, not jacking up the rear, and big'n'littles on nice 60s style mags. It will also receive a warmed over 409 W-head instead of the mouse motor that comes with the kit.

Hi all, I'm back. And I started this big scale thing just because I finally decided on the colour - orange pearl with a pearl white roof. First I painted it a Peugeot colour, called 'Seville' straight from a Halfords rattle can: Then I added 'magic' pearl in gold: Unfortunately, the weather doesn't allow me to clearcoat the body for the time being. But I got me this ultra-expensive piece of kit:

As mentioned before, the only parts really shared between these kits are the tyres - and I find exactly them the downfall of all three models. The tyres are simply too small. The otherwise actually quite nice lineup should be expanded with Challenger/Cuda/Charger/Road Runner and Mustang/Cougar.

Check out this thread - excellent pun!

Why as a diecast? Why? Why? Why?

Hi all, I need some hints how to apply decals on chrome surfaces. The problem occurs on the Red Baron and on the Aoshima Stormzender Spiegel HP-022 Cyber Formula racer. Cheers, Junkman

Lola T70?

Yep, received my example this week. What I instantly liked is the way they engineered the seperate 'undercut' side panels - they follow 'natural' seperation lines around the doors. Neat. What I don't understand is that they didn't provide any information about decal placement. Which car am I actually building?

Studebaker Avanti

Erm. The pictured engine is a V6, no?

It would be easier if at least one part of the car were standard. Whatever this started life as, is there anything left of it? To me this is a "Ship of Theseus".

I have a Jo Han Javelin snap kit that was badly packed. So in the better part of two decades, the rood was pressed down, so now the a pillars are bent outwards. They are rather fragile, but not broken yet. Is there a way to get them straight again?

Don't get me started. Painting cars or models was invented by Murphy's branch of hell. After making futile attempts at both for a quarter century now I tend to think I've had it all. Until the next project... I'm always glad to hear of others going through the same ordeal - not because I'm schadenfroh, but it comforts me to know that I'm not alone. One always seems to live under the impression that 'this never happens to the others'.

Funnily enough, for 99.9% of my modelling I use a sprue cutter a X-Acto 11 a razor blade sandpaper Admittedly, my models might look like it, but all these fancy tools I accumulated over the decades were not used more than once to try them out. Then I usually revert to the 1958 way of things.

That's why I usually remove them. They look ###### being molded on and not seperate.

I'm so relieved. I always thought this only happens to me!

TKM? Run!

I remember equally enthusiastic reactions when word was out that the remains of Jo-Han were bought up. Back then, I exulted. Since then, Jo-Han is dead as a can of corned beef. After that experience, I wait until I have a box with parts in it on my workbench before I believe anything.