Junkman

There is only one explanation: There is no oil left to leak in your BSA. You better fill it up soon.

3.8 Litre, why?

I'm currently restoring a real series 1 roadster. If you would like to have detail photos, please just let me know of what and I'll post them here. My car is on its wheels with the engine and drivetrain installed, but no interior yet.

I did my duty and preordered one. So don't blame me if the model is a disappointment in the sales department. This Scott and his lads from HLJ seem to be quite well off with what I pay them lately. Check out the palace he's built recently.

I live about 50 miles from SEF, mostly motorway and I'm a professional speeder. From London itsself, it's just a stone throw really. To my knowledge, they don't have a retail store. You just kick in the front door. This is England after all. When in Rome, do like Romanians, as they say. No, seriously. If you contact them and make an appointment, they happily show you round their facilities and you even get a cuppa. If you PM me with your tour dates, let's see if we can set something up. You are more than welcome to my home. So is everybody else from this forum btw, who is dare enough to venture into its proximity. I'm located in Berkshire, right between Reading and Windsor and the M3 and M4 corridor. This is about 30 miles west of London and roughly 45 miles east of the middle of nowhere.

I love the box art. It is so realistic. Note the differential oil puddle which explains why the car isn't participating in the race.

Thanks for the hints. I wonder if the skalecraft guy is still in business, haven't heard or seen anything for quite some time. He had some amazing stuff, to say the least. Southeastern Finecast is just half an hour away from me (the way I drive), so I'll pay them a visit one of these days.

Yes, I once built the Hasegawa Cosmo kit, albeit not the race version. It is a marvellous kit of a stunningly beautyful car and goes together really, really well. An added bonus are the photoetched scriptplates. Wonderful. I don't own the model anymore, otherwise I would post pics. Coincidentally, as of this writing, I have another kit shipped over though. Again, not the race version. It will be built, but it is not next in my queue. The LB 110 Mazda Cosmo must be the second car in automotive history that packed a Wankel engine. Too bad it's not rendered in this kit.

This is not fair! Think of all the industry firsts Lucas introduced: Lucas is the patent holder for the short circuit. Lucas invented the first intermittent wiper, the self-dimming headlamp and the original Anti-Theft device. And if Lucas made guns, wars would not start either. There are strict laws for British sports cars, which can be found here: http://www.team.net/sol/humour/car_laws.html There is an FAQ: http://www.team.net/sol/humour/faq.html Gosh, telling Lucas jokes is indeed black humor. And a real gentleman doesn't motor after dark anyway. Oh, How do you get two whales in a Mini? Up the M5 to Cannock then follow the signs to Llangollen.

Agree. This is actually quite easy to work on. Surprisingly even the real car is.

Now that you said it, youare right. It has been a while since I saw the rally kit. There also was a club racer version with hardtop and minilite wheels, which is even more elusive. What I really wonder is whether there are suitable Rostyle wheels out there somewhere.

I'm not aware of any superdetailing kits. But I converted mine to right hand drive and it isn't really that difficult. I also cut open the tailgate (which is side hinged on the real thing, something that never ceases to amaze me) and the fuel filler flap. I'll dig up the project from the garage these days and post pics and an explanation how to do the RHD conversion. Stay tuned.

This is MAXIMUM! I've never seen anybody before who could get this out of these old Jo-Han kits.

Thanks. Still, it is an MGB, not a Midget. And I am glad that I only build the model, not tinker around with the real thing. Building this model nicely is not that much of an achievement, because it is an excellent kit to begin with. As for a real MGB, I think the only sensible thing to do is replace it with an MX5.

Thanks. Yes, as I said, I opted for the rubber bumper just to be different. With the original Aoshima kits, you had to select which version you bought. The Airfix issue, made from the Aoshima tooling, contains both versions. You are right, if you buiild the model out of the box, it will have the rubber bumper ride height by default, no matter what. To lower it is quite easy. In the back, all you have to do is cut the coils. Up front, it's a tad more complicated, but I'd just cut off the axle stubs and re-drill the kingpins, then use piano wire for the stub axles.

There is only one thing wrong with your Mercury that I can see: It isn't mine once it's finished. Great work!

Your experience is indeed typical of them. When it was cold, they wouldn't start, when it rained, they leaked and on the rare occasions the sun put its hat on they overheated. The kit is the antidote of the real thing. It is beautifully molded, the proportions look spot on, the detailing is Aoshima at its finest (mind you, it is a curbside, but interior detailing and undercarriage are superb) and the kit goes really well together. Not a single curse on this one yet. As I said before, if you prefer to build the chrome bumper model, you should lower the suspension by roughly two scale inches. This will be a very straightforward job.

Oi, thanks! The paint I used was purchased about 40 miles west from where you live at my local B&Q. It is ordinary DIY 'Rally' green metallic in a can for a fiver a toss. The glitter is ordinary Plastikote green glitter, also from the rattle can, sold rougly 40 inches east of the 'Rally' green paint, i.e. the next shelf. Then you are in for about seven coats of Halfords rattle can acrylic clear. It's really that simple. All you have to do is wet sand each layer of the clear after coat three. I have used that stuff on 1/25 scale cars, but only on radical customs with not too much in terms of surface details, since the paint buildup is fairly high, so it would cover scripts and moldings. In fact, I just did a 1/24 Red Baron in red glitter over -you guessed it- 'Rally' red metallic. As for the model, it is indeed a Topolino. It's the so-called Luv Buggy from Lindberg. It also has a Topolino nosepiece, which isn't pictured yet.

Not much to say about this. It's built straight from the box and painted glitter green. The long term plan is to build a trailer for it that is made from a cut up 1/12 scale Monogram 57 Chevy, which in turn is pulled by a 1/12 scale 57 Chevy Wagon that I have as a diecast from West Coast Choppers. The entire rig is supposed to be painted in this green.

Decided to go the rubber bumper route on this one, just to be different. The kit does include the chrome bumpers as well though. This is in fact the Aoshima kit, but contrary to Aoshima, Airfix gives you both versions in one box. The colour is original BMC Inca Yellow. The only mod I did is cut out the grille openings and use wire mesh. Everything else is box stock, including the 'high roller' stance, which is correct for a rubber bumper car. Once I've decided on the colour (always the hardest part for me) I'll do another one with chrome bumpers and this one will also be lowered to the correct stance for a chrome bumper model.

Erm, crew cab recovery trucks are the most common thing here in the UK. You hardly see one without. How do you guys get the occupants of a broken down car off the Motorways?

Yes, that's my intention. Small block, no scoop hood, no sidepipes. Just a plain old 67 Corvette in Marina Blue.

I've seen chopped Mercs with and without the rain gutter. I'd say it's a matter of personal taste. If you don't like it, sand it off, shouldn't be too hard to do. I like the fact that Revell did mold it, since that does give the builder the choice. It's easier to sand one off that's there, then to add one on that isn't.

Oh. My. God. Any idea what the release date is? Now I can't sleep until this thing is in the house.

I can't believe it yet. I won't believe it until that thing is on my workbench.