ColonelKrypton

You are getting some good advise and direction from those that have already replied. I concur with @Ace-Garageguy , most complex shapes and assemblies can be made from much simpler shapes and smaller assemblies. It takes a bit of practice at first to be able to start to see these simpler shapes but once you develop the eye your will never the view the world around you in the same way. You will quickly develop the habit of picking up everyday items and wonder what you could make from it. A couple of good links with much food for thought on the subject of making model cars and scratchbuilding: https://www.themotormuseuminminiature.co.uk/articles-and-projects.php https://www.themotormuseuminminiature.co.uk/scratch-building.php cheers, Graham

Close. It is an option, I will book mark and keep it in mind. cheers, Graham

Can anyone tell me what kit or kits have 1/25 scale 10" 1960's style slicks? I have found bigger and much smaller but those elusive 10" one seem to be slipping me by. cheers, Graham

Very nice. The video's intro was fabulous. Never stop encouraging her creativity where ever it may take her. cheers, Graham

Nicely done. Cheers, Graham

Very nice. 3d printing is a game changer. Still lots of room for improvement but getting better ( quality and bang for the buck ) all the time. cheers, Graham

Steve, If your earlier picture of the Galaxie 500 is any indication, then you truly have your painting process perfected. As any artist knows, it is important to know your materials and how to best use them. And of course, practice, practice, practice. cheers, Graham

Couldn't find another area on the forum to post this so this topic area seemed the most appropriate. I did a quick search here on this forum but couldn't find if this has been noted before. You will find on YouTube a channel called Ank Creative https://www.youtube.com/@ANKCreative/videos This gentleman builds smallish sale cars, trucks, and buses that are entirely scratchbuilt from PVC pipe with a few bits of wire thrown in to good effect. Lots of good tips, techniques, and food for thought. All in all both inspiring and humbling. cheers, Graham

Thank for doing that as I would have missed out on this great story otherwise. cheers, Graham

I re-read what I typed with regards to needle file lengths and noticed I made a mistake which has been corrected in my original post.I have a collection of needle files which are mostly the 14cm length ( 5-1/2 inches ) but I do have a select few of the 10cm ( 4 inch ) which are invaluable for getting into small places to work on small details. Your local hobby store many not likely have these sizes in which case you can look on eBay or my preference is a good online jewellers supply. For example, my goto places: in the US https://www.riogrande.com/product/tools--equipment/files/ or in Canada: https://www.gessweincanada.com/category-s/10441.htm RioGrande also has crimp tubes which I know some use for detailing. Be careful though. If you are a bit of tool nut like I am and like using good quality tools you may find that these suppliers have much to offer and you will end up spending more than you thought you might. I also like to use a good handle on my files. As I have gotten older and have developed a bit of arthritis, the handles make it easier to hold and control the files. This is my current favourite handle: https://www.riogrande.com/product/nylon-needle-file-handle/114047GP/?code=114047 You only need one of two as the files are easily changed as needed. cheers, Graham

the best tool I have found for making small square and rectangular openings is a small triangle needle file, also called a tri square file. A drilled hole to start and then careful and methodical work to square up the corners. Needle files ( Swiss pattern needle files) are commonly available in 10, 14, 16, and 20 cm lengths ( approximately 4 inch, 5-1/2 inch, 6-1/4 inch, or 7-34 inch respectively from tip to end of handle ). The shorter files will have a smaller profile than the larger. Also, it is handy to have a safe edge on your file. A safe edge is one without teeth and lets you work right up edges safely will not cutting into some part that you don't wish to. Some files will already have a safe edge but for those that don't, a few minutes spent with a bench grinder and a gentle touch so as not to over heat will result in a file that has a safe edge. cheers, Graham

Very cool and nicely done. That particular issue of Car Model was my favourite. I had thumbed through it so many times that it become held together with a few bits of Scotch tape and most of the pages had dog eared corners. As a teenager at that time I had few things to help influence and inspire my model car building. Magazines were about it and Model Car and Science, Car Model, and Hot Rod where about it. The October 68 issue of Car Model was probably the most influential and inspiring. I tried four times to build something like Jim Keeler's Dodge Fever. I never did have Coronet kit and could only use what I could find limited by what pocket money I could accumulate by skipping lunches at school and cutting grass. I tried using a Dodge Charger twice, a Chevelle and a Mustang body. Sheet styrene was a only a dream and instead I tried carving a couple of chassis out of wood with some success. Your Dominator inspired me to try combining features of both the Dodge Fever and the Dominator leading me to try making a chassis from left over sprues also with some success. I never did finish any of them but I learned much, developed and practiced important skills and had loads of fun trying. That is what such great inspiration will do. cheers, Graham ( near Ottawa, Canada )