ColonelKrypton

I just finished watching an interesting video on YouTube where the model maker made a 1/12 scale fan for their miniature dollhouse. Of note was their use of Oyumaru to make a couple of simple molds, then used UV cure resin to make a few parts, and then "glued" those parts together with more UV cure resin. Further, their use of a very interesting method of molding the bits for the shroud for the fan. This has given me some ideas to explore. cheers, Graham

That would be ideal. We can only dream I just finished watching an interesting video on YouTube, no that it was about UV curing putty or UV curing resin in particular but rather in that the model maker used UV cure resin to mold a few parts and then used the UV cure resin to "glue" them together. The fan is 1/12 scale which is the common scale for miniature dollhouses. cheers, Graham

I did some experimenting with the Solarez UV resin and find I need to change some of my previous comments. The Solarez UV resin either by itself or mixed acrylic nail powder does not bond very well to the styrene. As to it's workability, it is much harder than I recalled; similar in fact to using CA as a filler either with or without the acrylic nail powder. Incidentally when I say "acrylic nail powder" it is not that the powder is acrylic but rather it is for use on acrylic nails ( as in finger ). I have been primarily using the Solarez UV resin for adding clear lenses to dials and instruments and have only been experimenting with it for other purposes. If anyone gives one of these UV curing putties a try, please post your results as I would really like to know how well they work. cheers, Graham

That is an interesting comment. I have been experimenting with a UV resin product by Solarez https://solarez.com/ and have not had a problem with the resin peeling off the plastic. I always give the area a quick light sanding with 400 grit before. One trick I sometimes use with Tamiya epoxy putty is to put a bit of medium CA on the piece where I am going to use the epoxy putty. I have no first hand experience with the noted UV setting putty however I have been experimenting with a UV resin by Solarez ( link above ). As far as I know, these are all similar to polyester resin but contain a catalyst which is sensitive to UV light - expose to UV light ( or sunlight which contains UV ) and the resin begins to cure. At the bottom of the Solarez web page you will find links to a number of FAQs and other information. Does it shrink? Not in my experience, at least not the Solarez UV resins I have been using. Unless whatever fillers that are used in putty are subject to shrinkage then the putties likely will not shrink either. You could think of these as being similar to catalyzed two part body putties except that instead of adding a hardner you will cure by exposure to UV light. Does it react with ... ? Not in my experience, at least not the Solarez UV resins I have been using. Once curved the resin is as impervious as is the polyester resin you would use with fiberglass materials. Is it stable over time? l would say yes, at least as stable as any catalyzed two part body putty. How well does it sand? In my experience, the Solarez UV resins work just as easily as any polyester resin. However, to be fair, the Solarez UV resins I have been experimenting with are not putties, just resin. It would be possible to mix these resins with micro balloons or arcylic nail powder or dental powder to create a putty but I have not yet tried that ( speaking of which I must give it a try ). Tamiya had a UV cure putty at one time but I don't know if it is still available. I will have to look around for UV cure putty and see what I can find. Search on Amazon for UV resin and acrylic nail powder. You will also find UV light sources as well. cheers, Graham

Grey primer works well but before you even get to the primer stage you could also use a very light spray of silver over the area you are working on. Silver shows imperfections even better than gray primer and only a very light coat localized to the area you are working is all that is needed. And, by the time you are done working on that are you will have sanded off or otherwise removed most or all of the silver you had used. cheers, Graham

Very true hence my search for something better to use when their is nothing covering them up. Mmmmmm, maple cookies. Snack time I couldn't agree more. However, international shipping and the current USD to CDN exchange rate buts a damper on that real quick. I have managed to find a couple of reasonable candidates and with a bit of extra should be suitable. Thank you everyone for your suggestions. cheers, Graham

Indeed. Very nicely done. cheers, Graham

Variety is the spice of life and enjoying what you do is what it is all about. Nicely done. cheers, Graham

Very nicely done. Cheers, Graham

Title says it all - Which kit(s) have a decent four barrel carb? Stock, Holley, whatever ... I have looked at many of the after market resin and 3D printed offerings ( i.e. VCG Resin ) and they are very nice with very reasonable prices. I do like to support the after market industry whenever I can. However, being in Canada, the exchange rate and cost of shipping very quickly adds up and that nice item at $25 quickly doubles or more in price. I can buy a kit for less even if just to get a few parts with other parts left over for future use. chees, Graham

Simple, clean, good choice for colour; all around very nicely done with lots of eye appeal. cheers, Graham

Very nice. The wood bed floor looks very good. cheers, Graham

Meant to post some links: Tamiya UV curing putty: https://www.sunwardhobbies.ca/tamiya-light-curing-putty-34g-87076/ and, it seems that Mr Hobby has their similar product: https://www.sunwardhobbies.ca/mr-uv-curing-clear-putty-p130/ cheers, Graham

Good stuff but (here in Canada at least) this small 40g tube is about 2/3'rds the price of a small ( 397g ) can of Bondo 2 part putty ( the last one I bought ). With care I can use the same can of Bondo for about a year before it thickens and separates to the point that I feel the need to replace it and I will have used about 1/4 to 1/2 of the can by then. Tamiya also has a UV light cure putty. A bit pricey. I haven't tried it yet but I have used Solarez UV cure polyester resin and it works well. UV cure resins are popular for use with artificial finger nails and such. cheers, Graham

Great build, fabulous story. This is going to make you grin from ear to ear for a very long time. cheers, Graham

Very nicely done. The 62 to 65 Nova and Chevy II's are my favourite of these cars. The weathering is spot on. Makes it look very realistic as a well used back yard budget match racer. cheers, Graham

Really cool. Very nicely done, looks like what "just a simple little T bucket" should look like. cheers, Graham

Possibly. However, the MSDS I have states that it is for both the 40ml and 20ml product. i.e white cap 40ml, orange cap (non-limonene) 20ml It was I who posted the snippet from the Tamiya Cement ( white cap ) MSDS earlier in the post. MSDS are handy documents to have on hand. However in our digital world there are often far too many versions. Products and their composition do change from time to time so it necessary to pay close attention. The devil is in the details. cheers, Graham

Just to help clarify: Tamiya Cement, with white cap, white label, square 40ml bottle, Tamiya number 87003 is NOT D-Limonene based Tamiya Cement, with orange cap, orange label, hexagonal 20ml bottle, Tamiya number 87012 is NOT D-Limonene based According to their material safety data sheets ( MSDS ) these two cements are the same product only differing in their packaging. Tamiya Limonene Cement, with orange cap, orange label, square 40ml bottle, Tamiya number 87113 is as suggested by it's name D-Limonene based Tamiya Limonene Cement Extra Thin, with orange cap, light orange label, square 40ml bottle, Tamiya number 87134 is as suggested by it's name D-Limonene based Why Tamiya chose to use an orange cap and label on their Tamiya Cement hexagonal 20ml bottle is unknown but as we have seen, it can be confusing. cheers, Graham

It sounds like we are mixing up Tamiya white cap cement which is non D-Limonene based and works like many other non D-Limonene cements and has that same similar solvent smell as does Tamiya Extra Thin ( dark green cap ), Tamiya Extra Thin Quick dry ( light green cap ), and similar Testors and Tenax cements. But Tamiya White cap does have 11% dissolved styrene resins which makes it thicker ( more viscous ) and takes longer for the solvents to evaporate and is somewhat between the extra thin cements and tube cement. Tamiya orange cap with orange label https://www.tamiya.com/english/products/87113limonene_cement/index.htm is D-Limonene based and smells nothing like the other cements noted above. To quote Tamiya's web page "...extracted from citrus fruits and is very safe to use and comes with no unpleasant smells" cheers, Graham

It does, but the largest is 1/35 scale: https://spruebrothers.com/csm35005-1-35-copper-state-models-italian-armoured-car-1zm/ currently out of stock but I am sure other online retailers can accomadate. CSM has a good selection of 1/35 Great War period armoured cars. https://spruebrothers.com/copper-state-models/ This one is particularly eye catching: https://spruebrothers.com/csm35002-1-35-copper-state-models-romfell-panzerwagen/ But all are 1/35 scale. These armoured cars where often built on truck chassis so are reasonably large. cheers, Graham

This is another recently completed build this time of the Copper State Models (CSM) 1/72 scale Lancia 1ZM Autoblinda which loosely translates to Lancia 1ZM Armoured Car. Designed during the Great War and built by Ansaldo on a Lancia truck chassis and saw service in the Great War, the interwar period and limited use during the Second World War. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lancia_1ZM The scale is 1/72, sometimes referred to as "Braille Scale" but I like to call military vehicles in this small scale "Wee Warriors". For an idea of size, the wooden disk the model is displayed on is 4 inches in diameter. "Lampo" translates to "Lightning" Cheers, Graham

Very nicely done. The weathering is perfect, not too much, not too little, which makes it look like a well used VW pickup. The Gulf colours make it quite eye catching. cheers, Graham

Tamiiya white cap cement is more similar to Tamiya extra thin and contains solvents typically found in plastic cements but also contains a percentage of dissolved styrene which makes thicker ( i.e. more viscous ) Tamiya orange cap cement is made from limonene which is a solvent made from citrus. It is a safer to use cement and has less smell. https://www.tamiya.com/english/products/87113limonene_cement/index.htm There are a few other makers of cement using limonene. For reference Tamiya White cap cement contains as listed in it's safety data sheet name cas no. Butyl Acetate 123-86-4 40.0 ％ Acetone 67-64-1 40.0 ％ Cyclohexane 110-82-7 7.0 ％ 3-Methoxy-3-Methylbutyl Acetate 103429-90-9 2.0 ％ Polystyrene Resin 9003-53-6 11.0 ％ And Tamiya orange cap cement contains as listed in it's safety data sheet D-Limonen CAS-Nr. 5989-27-5 95-98% alpha-Terpinen CAS-Nr. 99-86-5 1-2% alpha-Pinen CAS-Nr. 80-56-8 <1% A CAS Number is a numerical designation for chemicals that is maintained by the Chemical Abstracts Service (CAS) of the American Chemical Society. Each number assigned by the CAS is unique to one chemical substance whereas many chemical may have more than one common name. I have never tried a limonene based plastic cement so I cannot make any first hand observations of the Tamiya white cap vs orange cap. Perhaps it is time I pick up a bottle and give it a try. cheers, Graham

1/35 scale. In that scale it is about the same size as typical 1/24 scale car. cheers, Graham