ColonelKrypton

Small town Eastern Ontario Canada near Ottawa cheers, Graham

Tuesday now and we are expecting that same storm here in Eastern Ontario (Canada). Almost noon and already a few flurries but the worst is expected this evening and overnight with the snow changing to rain and likely freezing rain. Yuuuccckkkk! ( double yuuuccckkkk! ) Bright side is that there will be some time to spend at the workbench, downside is that it will be a real mess to cleanup. I really like your build and those window cranks are great. cheers, Graham

Indeed. I think I spend more time playing and experimenting with different materials than actually finish building something. I am a bit of a art/craft store supply junky too. It'a all about enjoying the journey.

Agreed. Yes please. I am always looking for better ways and ideas and willing to learn whatever I can. cheers, Graham

Thinking of it some more, armour modelers often use tissue paper coated with PVA glue or very thinning rolled epoxy putty or the "lead" seal from wine bottles for making tarps, canvases, webbing, covers, etc. I will have to experiment with the black plastic garbage bag idea some. Sometimes you can't see what is front you, it pays to play and expirement. cheers, Graham

Very cool. They do look very nice. I will have to keep a piece of black plastic garbage bag near the work bench for inspiration when it strikes. cheers, Graham

Good idea. I will give it a try. I have one of these: https://www.hobcen.com/products/hc3d17-plastruct-no-tip-glue-holder?variant=39262799167617 3d printed for my local hobby store. I did modify mine a bit however, I glued on a bit larger hex shaped base made form 1/4" aluminum which adds more weight on the bottom and makes it nearly impossible to tip over. cheers, Graham

I would agree, the one on the right in the picture does look better for use as a braided hose on a model. However, the one on the left does look like it has higher percentage of coverage. Pictures can be deceiving. The braided covering is given as a percentage and will never be 100%. The manufacturer specs will generally specify. Cable meant for critical applications at very high frequencies will often have not only a high percentage braided covering but will also likely have a metallic foil covering usually under the braid as well. Not all cable is suitable for all applications and you do get what you pay for depending on your requirements but there will always be exceptions. What is suitable as a model detailing accessory is not necessarily suitable for use to wire up a module in a microwave communications system. Not at all. My comment about the eye just seeing what it wants to see is not about poor effort or accepting same; rather it is about the psychology of how we see and what we see when we view certain things. For example, as a mechanically inclined car nut we know that an engine has ignition wires fuel lines, etc. When we view a model engine compartment we have a certain expectation to see some of these things. If the ignition wires are larger than scale we accept that as we expected to see them and they were there whereas the lay person with little or no knowledge would likely not notice one way or the other. Whether or not as a model builder you have added these extra details such as wiring or fuel lines or battery cables, or brake lines ( etc ) is always your own personal choice. You are the one who decides what you add or include, no one else. cheers, Graham

Urs, Thank you for posting that. Very interesting. I have played around with photography since the 60's. My father worked as a reporter / photographer for a newspaper so I got an introduction at an early age. I still tinker but the magic of the medium has left me. I think that started with digital cameras. I miss the old medium format, press cameras and film. It is all about the lighting whether in a studio or nature outdoors. cheers, Graham

Wishbones are OK but I have never been a big fan instead preferring the wishbone style. Why not kitbash, modify, or scratch up a pair of wishbones that you don't find so clunky that nicely match the ones in the rear? cheers, Graham

Indeed I do. Very nicely done. cheers, Graham

very very nice. cheers, Graham

Very true. The cheapest cables will have the worst braided covering whereas the higher quality ones will have a finer, tighter, and higher percentage of coverage over the inner insulation core; you get what you pay for. In any case, sometimes the eye just wants to see what it wants to see and something overscale is often more acceptably pleasing than nothing at all. cheers, Graham

I have been following and gathering bits and pieces for my Straight Six Community Build Rides Again. However, I did want to clarify something. I am use to the very well organized, popular, and administered group builds on britmodeler. Each group build get it's own sub directory of the forum in which those participating create their own topic for their build and there is also a separate topic for general group build chat and another for a gallery for the finished builds. Granted, this is a lot of work for the admins and participants but it does work well when there are larger numbers builds. On this forum, the group builds or rather community builds don't seem to very popular ( which is a same ), are much more laid back with smaller numbers of participants and it appears that everyone chats and posts their builds within the same topic in the community builds sub section of the forum. Is that how it is done here? I am fine with that if that how it's done but I want to know if that is how it's done here. cheers, Graham

Lacquer thinner is a generic term; they are all not the same nor created equal. Some contain acetone, various alcohols, MEK, etc... Check their safety data sheet for details. Tamiya lacquer thinner with yellow cap part number 87077 is composed of: Propan-2-ol CAS no. 67-63-0 also known as isopropyl alcohol content > 50% 4-methylpentan-2-one CAS no. 108-10-1 also known as isobutyl methyl ketone content < 30% 2-butoxyethanol CAS no. 111-76-2 content 5 - <10% I have soaked polystyrene parts in Tamiya yellow cap lacquer for several days with no ill effects. I also soak "chrome" plated plastic parts to remove the "chrome". It does not remove the "chrome" in the same way that oven cleaner dissolves the "chrome". Rather, it softens and removes the underlying lacquer on the part which causes the "chrome" to flake off and so be removed. Also, Tamiya has a paint remover product part number 87183 which works very well for removing paint and "chrome" as I described above. In fact, I have found a 50:50 mix of the Tamiya lacquer thinner and Tamiya paint remover works a bit better than either alone. As always, manufacturers can and do change the formulation of their products from time to time due to changing regulations and in order to improve or reduce costs. Always test whenever you are using something that you have not used before. cheers, Graham

Also very cool. cheers, Graham

also very cool. cheers, Graham

Very cool. cheers, Graham

If you have never heard of the "Iron Law of Bureaucracy" before, you will certainly understand after reading this: https://www.jerrypournelle.com/reports/jerryp/iron.html I seem to recall that this is the original version: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jerry_Pournelle#:~:text=Another "law" of his is,and sometimes are eliminated entirely. Either wording certainly has a ring of truth. cheers, Graham

It does indeed. cheers, Graham

Very nicely done. I was just reading about this car the other day https://www.macsmotorcitygarage.com/junior-johnsons-infamous-66-galaxie-the-yellow-banana/ Interesting story and time period in NASCAR racing. cheers, Graham

The smallest commonly found coax cables can be found having outside diameters ( of the PVC insulation on the outside of the cable ) of 0.81mm, 1.13mm, 1.32mm, 1.37mm, 1.48mm and larger. The outside diameter of the braided shield of the 0.81mm coax is around 0.65mm. search on amazon ( or eBay ) for u.fl pigtail or ufl pigtail or ipex pigtail and you will these short ( 6 inches, 8 inches, 12 inches and some longer ) pigtails ( SMA connecter on one end and the U.FL / IPEX on the other). look for the longer ones and the ones using the size of coax you desire ( i.e. 081 or 0.81mm or 1.13 seem to be the most common ) You will also notice some having RG-178 or RG-174 cable - these are much larger than 0.81mm or 1.13mm cables, RG-178 has an outside diameter of 0.072 inches ( 1.8mm ) If you are lucky and happen to find an old wireless router or two ( or three ), you get luckier still and find some of this small diameter coax cable inside the router case. seems a shame to buy these pigtail cables and cut the connecters off to throw away. A couple of long length pigtails and you should have enough to last quite some time. That is what I did. cheers, Graham

OK, I am in for this one too. Hmmmm, wonder what kits have a good rendition of a Ford six cylinder? Flatheads and cammers For(d)Ever cheers, Graham

I learn something new every day. I knew that there were some differences between US and Canadian built but never knew to what extent some of them were. An interesting kitbash build. cheers, Graham ( in eastern Ontario )

Very cool. cheers, Graham