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ColonelKrypton

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Everything posted by ColonelKrypton

  1. What irked me today was that there was not one single thing that irked me, not even an errant cloud that needed yelling at cheers, Graham
  2. What pleased me to today is that there wasn't a single thing that irked me, not even an errant cloud that needed yelling at. cheers, Graham
  3. Good day all, The Official TROG rules for cars and bikes can be found on the the TROG web page: https://www.theraceofgentlemen.com/entry After some thought, for our purposes I have taken the liberty to amend those slightly while trying to keep within the spirit of The Race Of Gentlemen event and our The Race of Gentlemen In Miniature community group build the idea being to be a bit more inclusive and hopefully encourage participation. Herewith, the basic requirements, edited from the original found on the above noted web page, for clarity: Vehicles Basic: Year: Bodies must be 1934 or older, pickups are acceptable, American made only. Engine: American made 4 cylinder and V8 flatheads 1953 or older. Early OHV: Year: All cars or trucks up to 1941, American made only. All cars or trucks will need to be hopped up, cut down or customized in a traditional late 1940s to early 1950s style. Engines: OHV 1953 or older, American made only. DRAG/RAIL: All Entries must use stock model T or A frames only. Wheel base or front and rear axels may move or be altered in either direction. Acceptable engines are, FLATHEAD 4, FLATHEAD V8, STRAIGHT SIX and OHV 1949-1953. No bodies or tin is allowed in the drag class, only a small firewall if desired. Roll bars must resemble safety bars of this era. Square bars, round tube only. Running gear: 1953 or older. Ford banjo, quick change, or period correct pre 1953 non Ford rear ends for non Ford vehicles rears only. Wheels & Tires: Stock wheels preferred. No aggressive knobby or paddle tires. No wood T wheels. No modern wide slicks Paint: Period paint that emulates the early days of racing. No late model graphics, No vinyl stickers or emblems, etc. Cars can be shiny, primed or have old paint. Cars must have visible race numbers. 3 number maximum. Numbers should appear utilitarian, not modern or fancy. Paint, white masking tape or shoe polish also accepted. Headlights are optional. Fenders are optional. Full exhausts or open headers, the choice is yours. A vintage style round or square roll bar is needed on roadsters. TROG does have a class for bikes, pre 1947 American made ( see above noted TROG web page ) which is quite limiting due to the available model kits that fit this requirement. There are a few 1/48 and 1/35 scale and only one ( that I can find ) 1/9 scale ( Italeria issue of an old ESCI kit ) Harley WLA types so there is not a lot choice. There is a 1/9 scale period Triumph 3HW that could be included if anyone wants to build a bike. Suggestions? Subject to tweaking and clarification, nothing is absolute or carved in stone, we don't want to get mired down fussing over nits. Comments, suggestions, yays or nays are appreciated. cheers, Graham
  4. Interesting take and start to a familiar subject. cheers, Graham
  5. Good day one and all. Last year Charles @Calb56 started a community group build titled "Race of Gentlemen presents... California Drag Racing 2023 Build Thread" in which the idea and intent was a community group build of models in the spirit of "The Race of Gentlemen" https://www.theraceofgentlemen.com/ . That community group build ended on December 31, 2023 - sort of ... Community group builds here on the model cars mag forum usually don't have many if any hard and fast rules and so the "Race of Gentlemen presents... California Drag Racing 2023 Build Thread" sort of just continued - but not really. There were a number of recent posts to that old community group build hinting at the desire that it continue on into this year. The thought occured that there was interest in continuing such community group build that it may be of benefit to start a new topic for new community group build for 2024 - with Charles' blessing and encouragement, I volunteered to oversee the creation of new a community group build for 2024 thus "#TRoG-IM-2024 The Race of Gentlemen In Miniature 2024 community group build" was born. I fussed over the title for a while as I wanted something a bit different than just using TROG. Something as unique as possible but not overly long or complicated should make it easy to search on hence my chosen title for this topic. It is a working title and if anyone has any better suggestions then speak up. The spirit and intent of this community group build is the same as that envisioned by Charles in his original topic: which in the short term you can reference for details. This is a link to the details for cars for TROG entries. Keeping in the spirit of TROG we should try and stay as close to these as possible. However, also keeping in the spirt of TROG there can always be some leeway - after all, the spirit of TROG is to have some good old fashioned fun playing and racing old cars so too the spirit of The Race of Gentlemen In Miniature 2024 community group build is all about having an enjoyable time building something in miniature. So, start something new, finish something started but not finished last year or something set aside years ago. Pass the word around, Start a TRoG-IM build in your local club, mention in passing or start something in your Youtube postings. Jump in and enjoy the journey. And by the way, bikes are a part of TROG too. More details to follow ... cheers, Graham
  6. Very nicely done. cheers, Graham
  7. Charles, Thank you kindly for comments and your blessing. I will go forward then and create a new (soon) community group build topic closely following your intent when you created the initial topic and see where that journey takes us. That's the piece of the puzzle I hadn't yet stumbled upon! Thank you for the clue. cheers, Graham
  8. If there is a want and desire to continue with a "The Race of Gentlemen" for 2024 I will volunteer to create a new topic and oversee it BUT I don't want to hijack @Calb56's original topic by creating a new one. Might even be able to instigate a bit of interest with the Youtube model car community group build crowd. I did bit more reading on "The Race of Gentlemen" as I didn't know much about it and I am still trying to piece bits together. Started in New Jersey but there have been offshoots in Milwaukee and Santa Barbara so I am not sure where the original topic started with a reference to California - there must be something I am missing unless it was just Charles' putting his own twist on this this community group build to make it uniquely his own. Do speak up. Let me know what direction this should go. cheers, Graham
  9. Are we going to continue this Race of Gentlemen group build this year ( 2024 ) ? Perhaps we need to start a new topic for 2024 just to add a degree of separation. cheers, Graham
  10. Indeed they are and the old battlewagon is already starting to look more sleek and refined. cheers, Graham
  11. an interesting build. It will be interesting to see how this one turns out. cheers, Graham
  12. My favourite year Corvette. Very nicely done. cheers, Graham
  13. Thank you for the kind words. I am still refining my technique - gets better and more refined with every one I make. Of course there is limit, it is nice to try and make something that is as true to the original as possible but size, materials, and time have a moderating effect as does the fact once completed much of the smaller details are hidden or nearly so from sight; still, I know that they are there and that is why I try - the simple pleasure of making. cheers, Graham
  14. I cast some small parts from time to time and do not use pressure casting. I have been using a syringe ( 5ml size is large enough for anything I do i.e engine blocks ) and use a 14g tip like these: https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00G9IUVN8/ to "inject" the resin into the mold. You can point the tip into the bottom recesses and the mold will fill from bottom to top and you can move the tip around a bit to insure that the mold is filled. Before using the syringe I would often get bubbles in about half of my castings, since using the syringe my success rate is much better. Like everything, it took a bit of practice to get the feel for it. The syringes can be re-used several times. The cured resin will or should just peel off the plastic syringe . After injecting I "pump" the syringe several times to remove as much of the resin as possible and then remove the plunger and wipe of what resin I can from the rubber bit. I frequently get a half dozen +/- uses from each syringe. and tip. You could try a larger tip ( i.e. 12g ) or smaller tip ( ie. 16g ) but I found the 14g about right for my use. As for making molds for something like the wheels in your photo, I found that if I attach a smaller piece to the back side ( i.e. a disc a bit smaller in diameter than the part ), this will provide a nice defining line for that edge of the cast part. It will make for a small undercut but as @Aaronw noted, the silicon rubber is flexible enough that removing the part from the mold is not an issue. There is another benefit to this as well, if you slightly underfill the mold ( i.e.not quite to the top ) then a combination of surface tension and whatever shrinkage there is in the resin curing will leave a slight curved indentation in the center portion of the cast part leaving much less resin to remove and making it easier to clean up and make a nice level surface. Again, takes some practice to get a feel for it. I make my mold boxes from bits of 0.040 or 0.060 polystyrene sized to suit my piece. Easy to glue together and take apart and the silicon won't stick to the plastic and the plastic is reusable. If you have not already seen Robert Tolone's videos on youtube, you should have a look. Lots ( and lots ) of good advice and technique: https://www.youtube.com/@RobertTolone cheers, Graham
  15. That is interesting. A quick look at my local sources and I couldn't find this particular product. I will have to keep looking cheers, Graham
  16. Stumbled across puddled people of youTube which led to another video about this gentleman cheers, Graham
  17. Learn something new every day. Several things today in fact which seems to be a normal day to day affair. cheers, Graham
  18. Very nice. cheers, Graham
  19. Very nice. cheers, Graham
  20. Very nice. One of my favourite shows. cheers, Graham
  21. Nicely done. What's not to like of a '55 Chevy cheers, Graham
  22. Very nicely done. cheers, Graham
  23. I have both and use same. Always a case of one "size" not fitting all applications All solvent cements in fact. I think we can all be a bit impatient at times Good advice all round. The National Model Railway Association has a good reference document on adhesives. Published quite some time ago but still relevant: https://www.nmra.org/sites/default/files/d1n.pdf cheers, Graham
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