ColonelKrypton

very nice indeed. cheers, Graham

I see what you mean. Once the tire is mounted they look too bright and dull. I don't know what look you envision but if it were me, I would be aiming for something more like a darker magnesium. Maybe start with a darker color like Tamiya dark panzer grey followed by titanium silver; maybe even start with Mr Color steel followed by one of the silvers. I use these https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B08HLWF8MY/?th=1 to make test paint test cards. They are paper card but are a decent white and robust enough to do the job. Small rectangles of Evergreen polystyrene if I want something more robust. Make it easy to test different combination ideas. I make a reference card with every new color that finds it's way into my shop. Keep at it, I am sure inspiration will strike and you will get to where you want to be. cheers, Graham

Seth, Thank you for posting those pictures. My interest in this community / group build has waned. I am still working on something suitable for the subject but I never remember to take or post any pictures. It seems as though the subject is popular enough and not just The Race of Gentleman but these types of cars and good old fun beach racing and not only in the US but in other parts of the world as well. And speaking of community / group builds, there does not seem to be a lot interest on this forum. There is quite a bit of interest within the community on YouTube and other social media platforms however. Seems to be a hard nut to crack on this forum. cheers, Graham

Pierre, The smallest easily available LEDs are 0402 size i.e. 0.4mm x 0.2mm These would work for headlights and rear lights but may be a bit large for side markers - only way to know would be to try. 0603 is the next larger size and would be 0.6mm x 0.3mm. I would look on Amazon or eBay if you buy from either of those sources. You will find not only the bare individual LEDs but also pre-wired ones as well which is a good place to start as these 0402 size LEDs are rather tiny. cheers, Graham

It's called SOS Shiny Object Syndrome. It is incurable once firmly entrenched in long time model builders. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shiny_object_syndrome cheers, Graham

I got to thinking about this a bit more. As a styling detail it has some merit, sort of like the the stripes on a pin stripped suit. As I have been driving around I have taken to more closely observing panel lines on cars more closely, particularly around doors. Some vehicles have a dark rubber trim around the inside edge of the doors which does influence the apparent colour of the observed shadow area. Also, some doors have a dark rubber like bit of trim on the rear edge of door ( anti scratch/ding trim to protect other car from your door ) which got me to thinking that this too would make for an interesting detail on a model; something to add a bit of colour trim and variation. I keep coming back to look at your pictures and I can only repeat my previous comments - Very nice, simple, clean, with much eye appeal. And, every time I look the more subtle details notice. cheers, Graham

Very nice, simple, clean, with much eye appeal. I quite like the seat, especially the back, very realistic. Was this a kit part or did you do something else to it other than paint? I would agree with Alans comments. The black panel lines are a bit too stark. I have a love hate relationship with the Tamiya liner wash - when it works for me, it works but when it doesn't I make a mess of it. Many (many) years ago all I had where Testors enamels and artists oil paints with which to makes washes and use for dry brushing. Recently I have been gone back to doing just that rather buying pre-made washes. Tamiya enamels are now my preferred rather than Testors however. My use of washes and dry brushing has been developed and tempered from many years of building military aircraft and vehicles. In this case I might have tried starting with a dark gray lightened with a bit of racing gray. Shadows are not black; they are a mix of dark washed out colour from the surrounding area with a touch of blue depending on sky conditions when viewed outside - cloudy dark day, less blue; a bright sunny cloudless day, more blue. The technique of painting over a previously highlighted panel line or area is often referred to by the military airplane or vehicle builders as pre-shading. Looks good when done in a subtle way but can also be easily done but then so can techniques like dry brushing. Fads come and fall out of favour but in the end it's up to the builder to decide for themselves. cheers, Graham

Very nice. Lots to like with a well done AWB A/FX match racer, one of my favourite era and style of drag racers cheers, Graham

Also very nice. cheers, Graham

Very nice. cheers, Graham

Very nice. Well done. I scratchbuild Great War era AFVs but in plastic and in 1/35 scale. Using wood worked out well for your model. Hard to tell it's completed size. What scale is it? Interesting way to make the rivet detail. I think if it were me I would likely have something like using the heads of straight pins; depends of course on the scale. cheers, Graham

Just off the top of my head to start, in 1/25 the AMT '34 Ford pickup, the Revell '37 Ford pickup, the recent release of the Revell '32 Ford Tudor, I think the AMT '53 Ford pickup, and I know there are others. in 1/24 various older Monogram Ford kits but couldn't say which ones for certain. VGC Resins makes some very nice Ford flatheads. Which one(s) are best? I kind of like the version in the Revell '37 Ford pickup and the VGC resins ones. cheers, Graham

Very nice. cheers, Graham

I have several old genuine Dremel collets that have worked very well for many years. They are made of steel not like Dremel's current offerings which are aluminum and leave me wanting. I tried several different brands of Dremel compatible collets from eBay and Amazon. They were all useable to a point but where all disappointing in one respect or another - some didn't grip well enough, some needed to be de-burred before use, some had too much obvious runout. For use in a Dremel holding larger size burrs for rough work they would all get the job done. However, I am fussy. My needs and wants were for something a bit more precise. I would suggest, as I did, just spend the extra to buy genuine Dremel Multipro three jaw keyless chuck Dremel model number 4486. These are, or at least were when I recently purchased one, made in Germany and made of steel. Do not try and substitute the inexpensive Chinese Dremel compatible three jaw keyless chuck as these are made of aluminum. I tried one of the inexpensive Chinese compatible aluminum chucks to compare to a genuine Dremel and the difference is like night and day. cheers, Graham

I get mine from Amazon. cheers, Graham

You might try a 1/32" ( 0.8mm ) diameter 4 flute end mill https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B07S4FSM4M These end mills will cut on their end and may just work for removing the molded in bits although I have never tried them for purpose. You would still need to use a light hand and use care. I will have to give it a try later on when I am the shop. cheers, Graham

Very nice. I like the choice of magazine on the front seat. cheers, Graham

Very nice indeed. cheers, Graham

Very, very nice. cheers, Graham

Very cool. I'm itching to give it a try myself. First, I am off to start gathering supplies ... cheers, Graham

Awesome indeed. A very interesting mash up of of good ole British iron. cheers, Graham

Very, very nice. cheers, Graham

Very cool, nicely done. cheers, Graham

A very interesting build. I am going to have to give a try to using some gold leaf. Gold leaf is traditional ( i.e. real gold ) but now you can find imitation leaf in a variety of colours sold for finger nail art. Hmmmm ... starting to envision some interesting possibilities. cheers, Graham

Welcome to the forum. I think this is the appropriate sub forum for your post. I find that many complain about the quality of their builds or not being able to complete something. I don't think there is ever any need to do so. I suffer from analysis paralysis and advanced modelers syndrome ( AMS ) which are both made up afflictions. I have built models of various genres for many years and very much like to fuss over small details and try to make things perfect. The reality is that perfection is simply unobtainable. I may aim for perfection but in the end well done as best I can is perfectly acceptable and I have learned to come to terms with that. I have also learned not to dwell on the frustration of trying something new or different and having the results being less than my vision and of not completing some build. I finish about one in ten projects that I start but I always learn something along the way. Some of the incomplete projects will get set aside and some rise again later on, at least those that didn't end in the trash bin straight away. Every project is a success in some way or another, there are no failures - only the failure to learn from our attempts. I quite like your roadster, that looks like the Revell '32 highboy kit. I like your choice of colours, they work well together, exterior versus interior. It seems as though you have a liking for late '60's Camaros. Enjoy what you do and enjoy doing what you enjoy - you only have yourself to please and answer to. cheers, Graham